crazyjim

Nope. Nothing going to happen around my area. But then there's only a post office in Dunnellon and the real baby post office in Holder. They're about 15 miles from each other. Holder is never busy but they close at lunchtime. I shouldn't say "they". There's only one person who works there.

Fantasic detail! I gotta keep an eye on this one.

My MCM Forum title has been upgraded to AVID POSTER. Drinks are on me August 5, 2009 4:30pm - 6:00pm at VFW Post 10087 in Beverly Hills, FL.

What would it take to make some disk brakes like the ones Pegasus sells? I can get them through hobbylinc for $2.59 for a set of 4 in chrome. Can you do cheaper than that?

What would it take to make some disk brakes like the ones Pegasus sells? I can get them through hobbylinc for $2.59 for a set of 4 in chrome. Can you do cheaper than that?

They look the same to me. The aluminum doesn't seem to cover very well when brushed on parts. I agve up on it and use Testor's Steel for exhaust pipes, springs, etc.

Pretty cool diorama. I like the tear drop - both of them. Welcome to the forum. There's lots of excellent models shown here and tons of information being passed around.

Thank you for the pic.

I'm with Dr. Dubois - can someone post a pic of these Sharpies? I went to the website posted by williebling but there's many different kinds to choose from.

Poor Herbie looks so dirty and sad. Didn't he always keep himself clean in the movies? Fantastic weathering.

Love those little Anglias and you did asuperb job on yours.

The disk on the left is the saw blade. The right side is a cutoff wheel. Up top is the mandrel used for either. I got the saw blaeds at a flea market a few years ago. Dremel or Craftsman used to have them because that's where I got my first saw blade. The blade is less than half the thickness, maybe even 2/3 thinner than the cutoff wheel.

Hey Shane - how was FLA? Did yuo get to see Big Daddy? Hope you're not bidding on the same items that I'm bidding.

The interior is flat light hull gray, semi gloss black, and dark hull gray with medium gray flocking on the floor.

Forgot to thank Nick Winters (dukefan69) for his post about the picture studio. It works pretty good.

Here's an update on the progress I've made. The interior is just about completed. Chassis is complete - here it is upside down. . . and right side up. I plan to have the exhaust exit between the rear wheel wells. Before painting I have to decide if I want to notch the hauler body for the exhaust tips. The last pic shows the carhauler kind of together. Maaybe paint tomorrow.

Thanks for the heads up Brandon. I think I remember something about Turtle Rancher going to sell models. I keep looking at emodelcars but never saw any of his stuff.

I have a baby circular saw blade with very fine teeth that I can attach to the Dremel. I suppose if I left it in one spot it would melt the plastic but it cuts so fast that never happened to me. Lowe's & Home Depot have Dremel baby circular saw blades but they have very large teeth. I picked mine at a flea market many years ago.

Sorry to disagree, but the original instructions for the EMPI Imp call for shortening the VW chassis by 12". After the cut there's still a rear seat area but I converted mine to a lockable storage area (hinged plywood w/lock and a tonneau cover).

I like the extra detail you put into your black '79. I should have thought to grind out the grille like you did. Next time.

Alright - '37 Chevy. I got as close as the camera would allow for an engine pic. It's the block,heads, valve covers from the ala Kart kit. The valve covers would in terrible shape so I stripped what litlle chrome was left and painted them Testor's Steel. The rib across the top was painted body color. Body color is Testor's Mystic Red rattle can. Body was rubbed with Novus #2 and then polished with Model Car Wax. I got the front end down by mounting a parts bin axle below the springs instead of on top. The axle was narrowed to keep the wide tires under the fenders. The springs were notched to accept the axle. Grinding the spring mounting points front & rear also helped bring the body down. I screwed up by opening the rear wheel wells to the factory scribed line. They were too big for the tires. I had to fill in with 2 part putty and grind & sand. It actually worked good for me because the tires fit the wheel very well. The exhaust tips are polished 1/8" aluminum tubing that attach to solder exhaust pipes. Larger diameter aluminum tubing was used for mufflers.

WOW!! Your detail work is amazing. Keep it going.

The teardrop trailer is all scratch built. Somebody posted about making a teardrop trailer available in trade for an unbuilt kit. I researched the internet, made some drawings and then made side templates from glass. I lined the interior walls with Evergreen and them glued on the top and bottom. Evergreen was used again to make a frame underneath. The pickup features a neat hitch receiver. The plan for it came from Dukefan69. Thanks, Nick. It works very well.

The exhaust is plain old 3/32" aluminum tubing from the hobby shop. I polish it, cut it, and glue to the kit exhaust with Micro Krystal Klear. The taillights gave from the parts bin - they might be '61 Chevy bezels with small transparent red plastic. The color is Testor's rattle can in Star Spangled Blue I believe.

This is a scratch built teardrop trailer I built.