buffalobill

I like your '54 Stude wagon a lot! Years back, the late & great customizer, Dick Dean, and I were discussing chopping a (1:1) '53-'54 Stude coupe that I was considering purchasing, and he showed me sketches that he had done of a '55 Stude Conestoga w/ a '70-'71 Camaro front end grafted on. He wanted to do that to the Stude I wanted to build, and that was one of the few times that I disagreed w/ how he designed & executed his customs. Yup - he went and built that '55 for someone else, and it didn't turn out half bad, afterall. I, too, look forward to seeing a new 1/25 Conestoga body in resin soon.

I took another look @ that Golden hawk that was in Car Modeler, and now I can spot a few differances between your model & that one - color of the roof (gold), shape of the leading edge of the fins, smaller '53 style of front bumper guards, directionals on top of each front fender, etc. The photo was part of the coverage of the Mid-Atlantic NNL meet. The caption under the photo credits Bill Geary w/ the build. Hey - isn't that you?? re: cats & models co-existing in the same household. We have 2 cats now, and about to inherit 2 more when our son moves back home next week. I will never forget (or forgive) my ex's cat that attacked a just-completed fully-rigged & detailed model of the Santa Maria sailing ship many many years ago. The cat apparantly thought that it was an aircraft model and not a ship, and quickly discovered that it couldn't fly worth a darn. But I had considered flying that cat as payback, but re-gained my senses at the last minute.

Bill - If that R&R hood is available as a standalone piece, and reasonably priced, I could work w/ it for my 'concept car'. As soon as I sort out how to post images on here, I'll download some pics of the model as it is now (it's been sitting in a box for a couple of yrs). It's got a mildly chopped '65 Impala roof & windshield, a more crisply styled deck lid w/ the license plate recess filled in, slightly toned-down tail fins w/ the '57 Chrysler lenses frenched in, and a rolled rear pan. It will eventually have a typical late '50s style of concept-car interior and wheels w/ wide whites. I may use a modified '57 DeSoto bumper/grill, although I'm also considrering an inverted '60 Pontiac grill and blade-style front & rear bumpers, along w/ rolled pans. I appreciate you posting the pic of the R&R hood. Bill

Bill - I knew that I'd seen your Golden Hawk before - it was in the Jan '96 issue of Car Modeler magazine (pg 21). You did a super job on the conversion, and I also think that it deserves a freshing up after being sidelined by your cat. (what did you do to the cat? lol) Hope to see you restore the Hawk, as it's that good! And, thanks for the reminder about R&Rs '56. It's good to learn that it's a decent resin body. But, there's just something extra cool about the '57-'61 fins on a Hawk. I recall seeing more than several '53-55 Stude coupes in late '50s/early '60s custom car 'little pages' magazines that had been converted into Hawk 'wannabes' - either just the front clip, or just the Hawk fins & trunk lid, or a complete conversion. re: the differance between a '53 and a '54 Studebaker, it's not quite as was stated in an earlier post. The size of the '53 and the '54 grill openings are the same if one is referring to either of the coupe models. Ditto, for the 2 & 4 door sedans and the '54 Connestoga 2 door wagon. . .But the sedans & the wagon grills are not the same size, nor the exact shape as the coupes. Hardly any of the body parts were interchangeable between the longer wheel base coupes and the (surprisingly) shorter wheelbase sedans and wagons. That's esp true of the front clip, as even the hood on the sedans/wagon is both shorter & taller than the coupes. The only differance between the '53 and the '54 coupes, as well as the other models is that the two grills are a bit fussier on the '54s, since it had a series of vertical 'teeth' on the horizontal bars, while the '53s only had the horizontal bar in each grill opening. Perhaps a few photos will make my gibberish a little clearer. - This is a '53 coupe: http://rodcustom.automotive.com/87640/0408rc-1953-studebaker-coupe/index.html And, this is a '54 coupe: http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://farm1.static.flickr.com/237/550686300_204fa8c30d.jpg%3Fv%3D0&imgrefurl=http://flickr.com/photos/37804160%40N00/550686300&usg=__I1tukakKNYhpXMtDCjWX0uKbtTY=&h=309&w=500&sz=161&hl=en&start=26&um=1&tbnid=uPFLlIcWrXfYFM:&tbnh=80&tbnw=130&prev=/images%3Fq%3D1954%2BStudebaker%2B-%2Bimages%26ndsp%3D20%26hl%3Den%26rls%3Dcom.microsoft:en-us:IE-SearchBox%26rlz%3D1I7GGLL_en%26sa%3DN%26start%3D20%26um%3D1 And, here's a typical sedan front end that illustrates the diff between the coupes and the sedans/wagon: http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.stationwagon.com/gallery/pictures/1954_Studebaker_Commander_Conestoga.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.stationwagon.com/gallery/1954_Studebaker_Commander.html&usg=__ToBGSrRlO_rEeikwYbh7QF_0Dnc=&h=339&w=548&sz=86&hl=en&start=30&um=1&tbnid=k2I39BSUMMWBxM:&tbnh=82&tbnw=133&prev=/images%3Fq%3D1954%2BStudebaker%2B-%2Bimages%26ndsp%3D20%26hl%3Den%26rls%3Dcom.microsoft:en-us:IE-SearchBox%26rlz%3D1I7GGLL_en%26sa%3DN%26start%3D20%26um%3D1 Sorry for having to refer you to the above links as I haven't figured out how to copy & paste an image on this froum yet.

Thanks for the several tips re: the '57 DeSoto Firedome hood! I'll contact Resin Realm as you suggested and see if I can purchase that hood, as that would be a good starting point for I'd only have to fill in the 'opening' @ the leading edge of the hood - and that's only if that had been molded open, and not just in relief.

Thanks for your info! btw - I want to compliment you on the terrific work that you do, as well as how eager you are to offer advice, ideas, etc, to all of us out here. . . After I read your reply re: that there's a resin '53 Stude 'post coupe' body on Hendfix's site, I also found one listed on Resin Realm's site. By the looks of the lists of resin bodies on both Hendix's & Resin Realm's sites, it appears that some of them are one in the same. . .Is that true? I want to start w/ an accurate body shell, as this build will be rather special to me. (I'd rather not end up w/ yet another poorly done resin body to add to my collection!) I'm curious if anyone's used the subject '53 Stude body, and I'd be most appreciative if they'd comment (or, PM me instead, rather than trash someone else's work on the forum, if their experience w/ it had been less than hoped for). You're correct that a '57-'61 Hawk body is one of the 'missing links' (and the '56 is, also) and let's hope that someone - somewhere - will decide to do one soon. A '62-'64 Hawk GT would also be cool, as the only one that I'm aware of (that are on ebay from time to time), are expensive & not very well executed. Here's hoping! Bill

I want to build a replica of my first car - a '54 Studebaker Commander (post) coupe that I purchased in 1962 for $50. (that's not far off than what a decent resin kit costs today!) I've seen this body offered in 1/25th scale from time to time on eBay, but have no idea re: the quality of the casting(s), or who the resin caster(s) were. . .[i plan to use the AMT '53 kit as a doner] I'm also after a 1/25th scale Studebaker Hawk resin body - preferably the '57-'61 style. Any leads and/or comments will be appreciated. Thanks!

I'm building a late '50s Mopar concept car based on the AMT 300C kit, and want to use a hood that would have been used on the '57-'58 Chrysler Windsor or New Yorker models. An alternate would be the '57-'58 DeSoto hood. [Note: I'm not referring to the '57 Dodge-type front clips that were used on some of the DeSoto 'base' models in '57.] I suppose I could fashion a hood using the front portion of a '56 Ford hood mated to the aft portion of the 300C's hood, but I'd hope that someone else has already tackled such a project. Anybody know of a source for such a hood? Thanks!

You are so correct re: how bulky the Chevy & GMC inline 6s really are! Back in the day (20+ something yrs ago) when I still had some $$, I built a 1:1 track-nosed & channeled '34 Ford roadster from the ground up, and had more than casually considered using a 302 GMC inliner that came w/ either a Wayne, Fisher, or Horning crossflow head (I've long since forgotten the details of which one it was) that I had located in Riverside, CA. It would have taken a fair amount of arm twisting & funds to tear it loose from the old racer, but not nearly as much as it would have entailed to getting it to fit in a streetable hot rod Even though I had already pinched the rails, plus lengthened the wheelbase by 3" & kicked the Model A front crossmember forward a like amount, it would have been a real bear to still get it to fit without all sorts of compromises & headaches -mods to the X member & trans mount, a drastically setback firewall & reduced interior space - already at a premium in a channeled roadster, plus possibly not being able to fit a normal hood over it without a bulge, scoop, or big hole in the top due to the body having been channeled. So, I took the boring & easier path and put in a stout 350 SBC, and then did everything I could to make it look like something other than a SBC. lol Looking back on that decision, I wish that I had slugged it out, and stuck w/ the Jimmy, no matter how tough it would have been. . . btw - my new(er) wife had totally balked w/ me going w/ the Jimmy, as Jimmy Ruth is my ex-wife's first name! - (she was a Southern gal - what else needs to be said about the name? haha) Keep up the great work on your A-bone! Can't wait to see it finished. . .

I'm really liking your A/inliner drag car build! In post #9 on this thread re: crank-driven (Potvin) GMC blowers on inline 6's as being rare, and they were. . .However, I've seen a couple of GMC/Chevy inline 6's that mounted a GMC 471 blower on the left side of the engine block. The blower drive used a conventional belt drive. Here's some more info re: such blower setups: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=105954 And, here's a '34 Chevy w/ a side-mounted blower: http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=htt...t%3D40%26um%3D1 And, the following has nothing to do w/ this reply, but it was too cool to not share w/ ya' - (note: I tried to save a copy of the photo that will be of interest to you), and then paste it here, but was unable to. . .However, if you scroll down about 1/2 way on pg 1 of the below thread on that forum, you'll find a photo of an unblown but injected 400hp GMC 6 w/ a crossflow head that's installed in a 190 mph Camaro salt flat car. (hopefully, that photo may be useful for filling in some of the details for your inliner) http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopi...id/198047/tp/1/

Try uisng some clear tape to hold a row of rivets in place on the outside of the panel that's 'being riveted' while you glue them from the inside of the panel. I wouldn't be concerned w/ trimming the 'legs' off of the rivets until the glue has dried. (CA recommended) When the glue has dried, remove the tape on the outside of the panel, and then gently clip and/or sand the protruding 'legs' of the rivets flush w/ the inside of the panel. Finish up w/ normal glazing putty, primer, etc. Also, the closer the diameter of the hole you're drilling for the rivets is to the diameter of those rivets, the straighter the rivets should remain when inserted in their holes. That may seem like a 'duh' type of comment, but even the slighest sloppiness of the fit will cause the rivets to wander about, esp sicne they have hardly any mass to them. . . Placing these tiny rivets one at a time is about as much fun as sanding Bondo! btw - if you ever need to make an overlay of styrene that would/could be laminated to another panel, you might try using a 'dress maker's pattern tracer' (aka - a 'pinch wheel'). Several size rivet makers like this can be purchased from Micro Mark , or at most any crafts or fabric store. .010 thickness styrene works best for embossing rivets using this method, but it's not very feasible to do this on either compound or convex surfaces. And, for those working in brass, North West Short Line (NWSL), a manufacturer of model RR stuff, makes a beautiful, but somewhat pricey set of tools for embossing rivets. (it may work on plastics, too - not sure) I'm going to use some of Archer's rivets (that are attached to a decal carrier film) on an upcoming project, and when I do, I'll post my comments on this topic thread.

I'm assuming that you were asking about Floquil paints. . . If so, Testors now distributes the entire Floquil line of paint products. Floquil is considered by most model railroaders as the best paint for painting model trains in scales down to 1/160th (N) scale. I have been using Floquil for over 30 yrs, and swear by it - at least for HO scale (1/87th scale) models. Floquil colors are mostly of RR prototypes - both generic colors such as Reefer Orange, BoxCar Brown, Caboose Red, Weathered Black, Grimy Black, Engine Black, Rail Brown, etc, but most of their colors are those for specific prototype railroads - both those that no longer exist, as well as those still around. A few of their colors are available in rattle cans, but most are only sold in 1.0 ounce bottles. Floquil also offers some vibrant marine colors for boat/ship modelers, as well as some specific for those folks modeling figures and busts (not the girlie-girl kind! - lol). Note that all Floquil paints are available in a flat finish only. (I've never used a gloss clearcoat over them, but don't see why that some clears wouldn't work just fine. Dullcoat works super over Floquil after the Floquil has dried thoroughly (I wait about 24 hrs). Floquil does sell a gloss clear coat in 1.0 ounce bottles for those applying decals, and after the decaling has been done, a light coat of Dullcoat makes the decal film disappear, and restores the original Floquil flat finish. The older Floquil formula paints, which were made for many years until recently, were a very 'hot' type of paint that wasn't suitable for brushing on styrene, or most other plastics, without a Barrier (Floquil's product name) coat under the Floquil color coat. Floquil's newer production paints can now be brushed, as well as airbrushed, on styrene w/out a Barrier coat. The quality (incl color fastness, resistance to fading, shelf life of open or sealed bottles, color accuracy, drying time, have not been affected by the newer formula. I still have some bottles of the old stuff that are 20+ yrs old, and as long as they're kept in a cool environment, and tightly sealed, the paint is as good as new. If it thickens up a bit, it's easily thinned w/ Floquil's thinner - I've also used lacquer thinner to thin it. . . And, the same folks also offer a similar range of colors in an acrylic formula (sold as the Polly Scale brand) - terrific for layering paint, as the acrylic and the solvent-based paints do not attack or mingle w/ each other. Do I like Floquil paint? You betcha! www.Testors.com has the entire Floquil product line - incl paint chips - on their website. It's available @ most model RR shops, HobbyTown (make sure it's the newer formula, as the labels are different than the old stuff), and from online sources, incl Testors.com and Walthers.com.

Rottenstone is still available from Rocklers, Woodcraft, and other franchised woodworking retail stores, and also from their online stores. Also try Pumice that's made by the same makers of Rottenstone. A trick I discovered quite by accident is to apply RustAll over a previously Dullcoated paint job. The alcohol in the Rust All will create a heavily oxidized look to the paint job (actually to the Dullcoat on top of the underlying colors). Many 1:1 cars have issues w/ top surfaces oxidizing badly, esp those w/ clear-coated OEM finishes, and this technique works well for replicating that look. I've had similar results using 70% isopropyl alcohol instead of RustAll - the rust colored tint will be absent, and only an oxidized finish will be achieved w/ the alcohol. Do not use 93% isopropyl alcohol, as it will attack the underlying paint color(s). To reverse the process, or to tame down the amount of oxidation, either spray or brush on an acrylic clear (a flat or satin seems to work best). . . re: using RustAll - make sure it's completely stirred up, esp if you've had it for awhile. You'll probably use lots more of the Rust component of the 4 part RustAll system, and it's available in separate (& much larger) jars. Be patient w/ RustAll, as it sometimes takes quite a few 'quick & dirty' applications w/ a worn out set of brushes for the rust effect to materialize. I have had good results using brown, rust, gray, & black washes of Floquil paints in conjunction w/ RustAll - sometimes in between coats of RustAll. Have some photos close at hand of a rusted vehicle similar to the model being rusted. Different cars & trucks rust in their own unique places on their body, trim, & chassis. Also, cars kept near salt water rust out totally different than those in the Rust Belt do.

Archer Transfers was mentioned early on in this thread as a source for rivet details. I'd check out their website: www.archertransfers.com What is unique about their approach to riveting, is that they have applied scale-sized rivets to a clear decal carrier film, so one needn't drill holes for each rivet, as well as there's no glue required for each of those rivets, either. And, it'll be a lot easier to get the rivets to be in alignment, since they're affixed to the decal film. If your local hobby shop has a train section, or if you should have a model railroading shop nearby, look for the July '09 issue of "Railroad Model Craftsman" (pgs 80-89) for several color photos of Archer's rivets applied to a 1/87th scale railroad tank car. And, yes, Archer has many sizes of 'rivets', as well as 'raised panel lines', and other products that may be useful for model vehicle builders. Both Grandt Line and Tichy make excellent individual plastic rivets. If you want rivets done in white metal, try Ozark Miniatures - a supplier speicalizing in 1/24 - 1/20.3 large scale train detail parts, plus all sorts of logging & mining stuff, too. For certain applications, one may be able to make use of N scale (1:160) model railroad 'track nails' that are used to spike down trackwork. They're super cheap, pre-blackened, and easy to trim, if need be. (Atlas is perhaps the easiest- to-find supplier at most any model train shop)

fyi - Replicas & Miniatures Co. of Maryland makes a resin left hand drive dashboard conversion piece for the Aoshima kit that you're building. It's their part # RM-95, and it's priced @ $4.95. R&M doesn't have a website, but you can reach Norm @ (410) 768-3648. Be patient for a call back, but Norm will call you, for sure. btw - beautiful color & paint work on the 1:1 model!

The Five Window has been near the top of my list of must have kits for a long time, esp after more than several attempts at correcting the many inaccuracies in AMT's ill-proportioned '59 vintage tooling since it's 1st release. At first I was disappointed to learn that Revell didn't chop the roof, but after wrestling w/ Revell's chopped '49 Merc kit in order to correct the less than ideal shape and height of that kit's chopped roof, I'm kinda glad that they left the option of chopping (and how much) up to the kit builder! It's not at all hard to chop a '32 coupe, esp a 5 window, and everyone has their personal thoughts on just how much to chop a top, anyway. As for not having a stock or hot-rodded flatmotor, in addition to the hot-rodded flathead in Revells' Tudor sedan, the stock engine (& trans) in Revell's '37 Ford trucks is supurb, and has the correct # of cylinder head studs for a '32 V8, as opposed to the later flatheads. The hot-rodded flatheads in Revell's '40 and '48 Ford kits are also excellent, and the revised Ardun heads in their '50 Ford pickup are usable (but the earlier released ones are not). Excellent resin bits are available from R&M and others to do up a more exotic flatmotor. Vintage suspension bits are also available in several of the aforementioned Revell kits, as well as the Model A crossmember & transverse 'buggy' spring in Revell's Model A kits, plus that found in AMT's venerable Model A roadster kit that's been around for decades. Other posters have already mentioned sources for traditional wheel & tire sets found in other Revell kits. I especially welcome the new hairpin radius rods that will be in the Five Window kit, as nicely proportioned ones have been on my list of 'must-have someday' parts. The early Chrysler Hemi is most welcome, also, as is the louvered deck lid option. [fyi - the '32 roadster & five window body styles shared the same deck lid, so either the stock or louvered deck lid can be retrofiited into the roadster body] AMT's soon to be re-released "Dual Dragster" kit has many intake options for an early Hemi, plus the same for an early small block Chevy. The same parts can also be found in AMT's out of production Blueprinter 'engine & bumper/grill Parts Pack'. What would I have liked to have seen in this kit, or, for that matter, in any (future?) re-releases of the other '32 body styles, are: - Buick finned aluminum type drum brakes w/ Ford backing plates (for the front axle) - revised rear suspension component options: - contemporary - coil-overs, Panhard bar, anti-roll bar, & a centered 9" Ford diff housing & axles (no air bags, please, as when did one last see a bagged rear suspension on any vintage Ford, except the Ala Kart!) - traditional - Model A rear crossmember w/ buggy spring, tube shocks, and SoCal-style radius rods, plus an early Ford truck (open drive-line) diff and axles w/ a Halibrand quick-change center section - a drilled & dropped I-beam axle - lever-type shocks as a build option, in addition to tube-type shocks - accurate & dechromed Kelsey Hayes wheels (correct-width rims for use w/ skinny big & littles, w/ an option of wide-white inserts (not dumb decals!) - a nailhead Buick V8 and/or an early Olds V8 w/ all of the period-correct pcs, including Hilborn injection & a 6-2 log manifold options - Ford 3 speed manual trans that's appropriate behind a vintage engine (no automatic trans behind a flathead, please) - '48 Ford/Merc series flathead w/ Ardun heads and a S.C.O.T. blower & blower drive pulleys, belts, etc. as build options - a late model 5-speed manual trans as an option for use behind both the flathead & a modern V8 note: some of the above are already made by R&M & other resin casters, or can be sourced in various kits, but one can still hope that they could be available in future '32 kit releases. Possible future '32 body styles for consideration - - a pick up truck (as an alternative to the Lindberg/AMT long in the tooth '34 pickup) - a Vicky (same comments as above pertaining to AMT's ancient & inaccurately tooled Vicky) - a woodie station wagon (although it might be a sales flop, as could be a B-400 & a phaeton tub, due to limited appeal after the first rush to get one) And, how difficult would it be to tool up a '28-'29 roadster body, interior, hood & grill shell, and offer it as a '29A-V8 style of highboy on a '32 frame? That could be a winner! In the meantime, there's always AMT's '29 roadster body. . . Let's be honest - Revell has already supplied the model car community w/ most everything needed in their other kits to build many variations of '32s. Kitbashing is half the fun of building a hot rod. Will I buy this kit? - you betcha! Hats off to Revell, as they appear to have scored a 95 w/ this variant! [now what's one to do w/ all of those Ford small blocks? Perhaps a group build project w/ a theme of a 'multi-engined Ford (only) salt or drag car' would use up quite a bunch of them!]

I've been using Windex (brand, not generic) window cleaner for years, and it works fairly slowly, but gently, to remove the plating on plastic parts. Some plated parts - esp those in older issue kits - lose their plating in a few minutes, while some of the newer (and usually) better plated ones may take longer. Suggest using an old toothbrush and lightly scrub any stubborn spots after the parts soaked for awhile. It seems that the Windex loses it's potency to strip off plating after 30-60 minutes, so changing out the Windex w/ a new batch will speed things along. Probably has to do w/ the ammonia in the Windex evaporating when exposed to air. . .I've seen very little, or no, differance if I cover the dish or jar w/ the Windex & parts, rather than leave it uncovered. Lastly, when the plating has all flaked off, soak the dechromed parts in a very weak solution of luke warm (only) dishwashing liquid & water (filtered tap water is fine) for a couple of minutes. The slightly soapy solution acts as an anti-static on the parts, and it'll also remove any residue left from the Windex and dissolved plating. Sometmes, on older plated parts, a yucky/gummy crud may still be lodged in a few recessed areas of the part, so lightly scrub those areas w/ that old toothbrush. If that doesn't work, one may need to gently pick out the areas w/ a #11 blade or similar tool. Most of the time, the smooth lacquer film is not stripped off, unless the parts sit in the Windex overnight. Even if I'm removing mold-parting lines w/ a file, a scraper, & sandpaper, I find that I get better results if I first strip the plating off the part(s) since it's much easier to feather a repair on bare plastic, than on a still partially plated part. Windex doesn't smell bad, won't craze plastic, is safe to handle, can be dumped down the sink w/ out any harm, and is inexpensive (esp so, if one's mother or spouse already has it under their sink).

note -I've admired that '34 5 window everytime I've been over to Tommy's house, and it looks as good in person as it does in the photos he posted. And, I never noticed any missing parts on it, either!) hey Tommy - don't forget the mild-custom 'Jimmie Vaughn/Steve Stanford style' early '60s Cadillac you're going to do next. Or, will it be the hot-rodded (Revell) Austin-Healey 100-6? And, way back when you had talked about doing a chopped '32 5-window sorta like Milner's (but not using the out of proportion AMT kit). And, there's that Shelby-ized, '55, '56, or '57 T-Bird that I challenged you to build. One more thing - you still have to finish the chopped VW Bug I gave you last year, too. If you'd just wrap up the P-51 and those helicopters, you might get some hot rods built! lol Bill