LOBBS

Marc, I see on RMR's website a '67 w/ 6'bed. Is that it or is it something else?

Thanks Marc, I had a feeling you'd know a thing or two about restoring annuals.

Thanks, the rarity of the cab/grille is why I was happy to pick it up as rough as it was. I always preferred the nose on the '67s and '68s to the later versions.

Basically I got a good '68 cab, hood and grille. There's other stuff there but it's pretty rough. It was built as the wrecker so there's no original bed at all. Am I correct in the assumption that I can use the '72 Chevy or GMC to fill out what's missing? I'm of the thinking that the '72 tool that's been around for eons was the last iteration of the annual kit from that series. I am planning on sliding the frame from the Revell '64/'65 under it all to get a bit more detail, I'm just needing to come up with the bed and interior. Also, I forgot to ask. At one time there was someone casting a resin short-bed fleetside box does anyone recall who? TIA, Kyle "LOBBS" Laubscher

I'll throw in a few that I've been waiting for. 1967/68 Camaro Preferably done from the '69 Camaro tooling but could also be done from the '68 Firebird tooling. Countless variants available for release. 1967-72 GM pickup One of the most popular trucks of all time and we're stuck with dinosaur annual tooling. Only way to get a non-'72 is to find an annual kit.

Always refreshing to see a Vette thrown into the mix!! Great job!!

I've been a quality control guy for my entire adult life. I've lost count of how many so-called "experts" that I've had to defend my position against over the years. Anything I'm unsure about or trying for the first time (in the past wiring, machining, etc.) I verify with some one I trust that knows what they're talking about. I make friends with a couple of the "old" guys that've been doing it for years, ask questions, then shut up and learn.

Neither of the Dayton blowers I've had come with a switch or cord. A trip to Home Depot yielded an 8' medium-duty pre-made grounded cord, a toggle switch, and the necessary fittings and such.

I finally got around to bringing home from work my latest creation and thought I'd mock it up for you guys to see. I've made a few paint booths following the instructions that Klaus Raddatz posted years ago on the Hobby Heaven Message Board. My first attempt was made from plywood that I had handy at the time. My second iteration was from MDF and made some design improvements to fit my personal preferences. It was a good booth for me and serves on as I sold it to a friend at work to get the seed money for this current one. I've always wanted a "professional" sheet metal booth. I work for an aerospace supplier that back in the day was a good old fashioned tool and die shop. Although we're mostly all CNC now, the old school tools (Bridgeports, brakes, shears, etc.) are still around. I'm a QC guy, so after taking a healthy ribbing from the machinists, they showed me the ropes on how to actually put those "dinosaurs" to use. I picked up the raw sheetmetal from a place here in Kansas City that sells "by the foot" and with some sage advice, and a little help, from the guys at work was able to come up with what I brought home tonight. All my previous booths have been of the downdraft design and this one follows suit. This particular one is a little bigger at 16" x 25" and will be fully carbon filtered to capture the VOCs from the paint. Following the charts in Klaus' guide I ordered up a new Dayton blower from Grainger through work. This particular model (1TDR3 in the Grainger catalog) has more than enough pull to work with my planned carbon filtration or if I choose later to go back to standard filters and venting out the window. The blower will hang from a plate with a hole in it that'll rest on a shelf down inside the "box" of the booth and blow out the back. A few inches of head space to help equalize pressure and there'll be another shelf holding the filters (carbon on the bottom, standard on top). I've always tried to stay with standard furnace filters sizes, hence the 16" x 25", to make finding filters a non-issue. Finally my surface to paint on, the "stage" if you will, is a sheet of expanded metal that fits down over the top filter. This gives me a sturdy platform to paint on while still allowing for good airflow. Overall, I've got around $250 dollars in materials including the blower. Compared to a similiar carbon-filtered downdraft booth from one of the professionals at $500-900 I'm OK with that. There are some starter booths on the market for around the same price but I much prefer the downdraft style to the side draft booths. If anyone's interested I'll post some pics along the way as I get this thing up and running.

Got the TG in the mail and I have to say that so far I'm very impressed. It has a nice, solid and balanced feel to it. The trigger set-up is very intuitive and natural. My previous airbrush is a Testors Aztec of some kind and I never did like it. It got relegated quickly to specialty situations like Alclads and Metalizers. I've gotta get a hose and some fittings to match up with my system and get some paint through this thing ASAP.

I guess I'm going to find out how I like it sooner rather than later. I told my wife yesterday that I'd been shopping around again and about 10 minutes later she handed me the shipping confirmation slip. I was prepared to hold out until my b-day in June but I suppose this week will do .

If you're going to build one at home, do it right. I'll post these instructions again on this thread to build a properly ventilated booth. It's not my write-up, it was posted years ago by Klaus Raddatz. I've built several booths using these instructions and have never had any issues of any kind. The only reason I've built several was to improve materials and/or change the design to fit my personal preferences. See attached file Paint Booth Design.rtf

I'm looking at picking up a Grex Tritium TG in the near future and was wondering if anyone has any thoughts on it. This is the top-mounted gravity-feed model with the pistol-grip trigger. There's a couple of needle options (hairline to 3/4", to 1" or to 2") but I think the hairline to 1" should cover most car modeling applications. I taught my sons to rattle can with an add-on pistol-grip attachment so a pistol-grip airbrush would seem to be the most logical step up. I see a whole lot of guys talking about their Paasches, Badgers and Iwatas but not so much on the Grex so if anyone is using one (the TG or any of there models) out there I'd sure like to hear your opinions on it.

I guess I'm pretty lucky because there's a lot of subjects I'm interested in that have been done recently and done well by Revell. However, if Revell would tool these up I'd go broke stocking up. Modern tool '67-'68 Camaro Modern tool '67-'72 GM pickups Late model GM, Ford and Dodge pickups/duallies

Looks like I'll have to get a couple now as some of the new parts (insert with the dry sump, tires) will make it a lot easier to do a proper Z06 also.

The rear glass in the Escalade comes pre-tinted.

Xara is a vector based software and only runs about $90. It's similiar to CorelDraw and Illustrator with a pretty easy learning curve. XARA

Great color choice Darin. I'm not usually a big fan of blue but it looks just right on the Vette.

Here ya go. It's not a kit but the "ingredients" are easy enough to source. I got several sheets of the PnP Blue off Ebay several years ago and everything else from Radio Shack. http://www.starshipmodeler.com/tech/fh_pe.htm

I know and those aren't the lines of a '66 Chevelle. The leading edge where the grille mounts on the front fender on the '66 cuts down and back sharply. The leading edge on the front fender on the '65 on the cuts forward before cutting backwards. The other giveaway is the round gauges in his dash picture. The gauges in the '66-67 El Caminos/Chevelles were long, narrow and rectangular in shape.

Great looking Elky, though I'm pretty sure it's a '64 or '65.

Killer job on the fish. I'm not really all that versed in Mopar history so I didn't even know that a notchback existed. Definitely prefer the notch versus the fastback.

I've seen these guys at the Heartland Nats they always have an awesome selection with them.

This is awesome Marc. I actually contacted Aoshima about this "problem" of the rear tires not being wide enough only to find that we weren't assembling them correctly. I posted my correspondence with them in the Wanted section awhile back.

This is pretty much the way that I do it too. The only exceptions being that I'll do as much assembly as possible with mating parts that will be the same color so that I can remove any mismatches or seams that may occur before paint and I make a loop of my tape so that I have a sticky side up for holding parts and a sticky side down to hold the tape down to whatever base I'm using.