whale392

Very nicely built! I have a soft spot for these and the Hakosukas.

At least he did drop a Viper engine into it, versus the 'I copied someone elses design and called it my own-every NASCAR loving redneck has one (built incorrectly) and thinks it's the baddest engine ever' Chevy small-block. Build looks good so far, and seems to be up my alley as far as how I would try (as they will not do) order a real one......GT body, GT500 drivetrain and suspension/brakes/hood, and Bullitt nose, base V6 interior.....a sleeper with serious functionality.

I can take a '0' as long as my loss looks good, and the belts certainly do!

Welcome Bob. I myself have too much errant plastic unbuilt at this time as well.......last count 1,038 kits and climbing slowly. Two are done.....about 200 are W.I.P status. Welcome to the disease.

Like Mr.Sauber, I use the Hex rod from Plastruct and cut it to the length I need. As for drilling the hole, I tape the fitting down, use an Xacto Panel scribe tool for the initial indent (kind-of center-punching it), and then start to drill with a #78 drill bit.....slowly working it up to the size hole I need. The take serves 3 purposes: 1) holds the 'fitting' tight against my work surface...2) provides a 'tooth' for the scribe tool to help align to and bite into...3) keeps the fitting from splitting or deforming as the drill bit size increases. Once they are completed, I tape them in line and shoot them in any of the various 'chrome' paint, then when dry, use Tamiya transparent paints to give them their appropriate color.

I understand the work schedule thing Cliff......I work 10 hour days (at night) so all I want to do on my workweek is sleep when I do get home. Progress is slow whenever I can do anything, because house matters take over modeling time (and keeping 3 vehicles running takes a little time from my week as well). I didn't want you to think we were ganging up on you about the seatbelts, and now looking at their position in the interior I have to say they will be hard pressed to be seen in full detail.........you win on this one Cliff!

Cliff.....you aren't mad at us are you? You didn't die or get lost in projectland did you? Any updates on these 'Killer Bees'?

Most sexy with her tail squared away! Need a full blown spread on her in the 'Under Glass' section!

Nah, we're not complaining........but I can tell you there is a very enthusiastic group of Fox-Lovers here with a reasonable wealth of knowledge on these cars. On the contrary, we (or at least I) love this build as it yet another FoxStang that would have gone unloved now being able to show herself in the light and be proud. Being I have the 1:1 versions of these cars, I take notice of certain things (believe me, the 5 lug wheels immediately stood out to me), All 4 of my current 'Stangs AND my wrecked Coupe were all 5 lug swapped. You did a good job on this one, be proud man...no one here is bashing you. Now, get on with some drinkin'!

That may be Eric, it does look yellowish stained. Also, I see it was 5 Lug converted!

The seperation line looks pretty clean to me. I don't see what clean-up at the color split line you would need to do. The Purple.........I hope the camera and or my moniter make it look that way; it looks Lavander in the pics.

Being that the shoulder harness was still optional in the B-Bodies at the time of the 'Bees being built (in the C bodies and D bodies (Imperial), the shoulder harness was standard equipment), very few cars actually came with them. Seeing them (or lack of seeing them in this case) installed in a model just follows prototype procedures of the day. My 1965 Dodges (both Coronet500s...one a vert and the other a hardtop) still had the option of front lap belts (my vert didn't come with them, but my hardtop did). Front belts did not become Federally mandated as standard equipment until 1974, 1984 for rear belts.

In the pics, the flat black looks dingy brown. Yeah, you could get the grill and/or headlight buckets either body color or Satin Black (Trim Black SEM paint works VERY well at replicating the sheen). My 1:1 83 vert has the black grill and headlight buckets.......my 84 GT Turbo has body-colored grill with Black headlight buckets. As to the paint....Easy Off Oven Cleaner (the yellow can) should remove the paint, and it won't harm the clear plastic. If you need, I have a spare set of the Mustang Cobra (1993) taillights that are exact repops of these....just let me know.

Cliff, with regards to your outstanding attention to detail so far, I find myself in some agreement with dwc43. While I do think the brass slide would be going truly too far for this interior build (considering that it will never be seen), I do think however that the silver (either painted or BMFd) on the buckle would make it more realistic sitting in the interior (as that portion of the detail CAN be seen even with it hidden in the interior). These buils amaze me and go far beyond my level (both time-commital and skill level), so take my opinion with a grain of salt and for what it is worth.

Turned out very nice.......excellent save. Now, if I might: 1) Why does it look like the headlight buckets and grill area are muddy (or at least dingy-looking)?, 2) It appears that the taillights are completely red. I can't remember (time to raid one of my kits) if they were molded that way, or if they were clear molded. Either way, the stripe down the center of the taillight lens should be Black (as this is an 83-84). Also, the center upper lens should be amber/orange and the inner lens white/clear. All in all, very well built and as stated earlier, great save. These were good kits for their time, and with some detailing can still shine today. Excellent.

Your builds are amazingly life-like! Outstanding quality and amazing quantity.............you sir are a building machine (in a very good way!).

Interesting chassis stiffening...........thanks for the info!

Looking awesome Cliff.......more pics to print! Keep this up man; I am taking notes!

These product reviews and personal experience with them are very helpful in my quest....I thank you all again for the assistance. Looks like Friday, I will be doing some rivet shopping. I have thought about the .010 styrene rod idea myself, along with the .008" and .010" copper safety-wire I get at work.

That is very nice Cliff! So I guess I can stop building now, considering you have done almost the very same build? I will plod on with the 'Bee; just as soon as the KW quits being a pain (so much for a simple 'snap-kit' build....I have more into this than I do a lot of my glue-bombs!).

Large decals and flat surfaces scare me, let alone large decals and irregular surfaces!! I believe you can pull it off and make it look good, so no worries/no fears. The trailer came out looking good, all nice and shiny new aluminum! Closest I get to trucks is dad drove off and on from 1970-81, and I remember some of his rigs. Luckily, his memories still remain so I can tap into them when I need to!

I'll be watching with interest, as either is better than nothing at all! Thanks guys.

Mr.Moto: according to dad (who purchased a brand-new 62 Fury in the spring of 62), the later Fury and Sport Fury came with the three tail light arrangement. I'll have to ask him again on the chrome trimming though, as my memory is slightly fuzzy on that. He traded this car in later on his last new car (a 1966 Plymouth BelvedereII Hemi/auto, which he took delivery of in February of 1966 and still owns).

I understand completely Cliff.........with the time constraints and scratchbuilding thing. My Kenworth W900A is killing me at the moment, as I have stretched the chassis and sleeper (and believe me when I say the chassis is weak to begin with). I will also be taking the cab/sleeper mounts down some as it sits way too high (by all my eyeball measurements done on the real trucks I see) and that will weaken the frame some more yet! Good thing I have lots of Evergreen Styrene and chassis brace patterns. The fuel-injected 440+6 in my 'Bee is coming along, and I have been printing out pics of your underhood detailing to help out with mine. As for the rear end, I am going to replace the leaf spring set-up with a 3-link/Watts link set-up, and run the front suspension either stock torsion bar type or create an adjustable coil-over set-up for it. Also thought about mocking up a Shaker scoop set-up (on my spare 'Bee just to see how it flows with the car) and using it instead of the Air Grabber unit....we'll see. Thanks again for the inspiration and ideas Cliff; sometimes you may feel as though no one is watching or cares, but those are the times when someone is actually taking notes!! Brad

Hey Cliff........you going to keep posting progress pics here? I see the 'other' site thread shutdown notice, and I sincerely hope you do not do the same here. I do not post in the thread there as I do here as redundant posting hurts my little brain. Your 'Bee builds are awesome, and a learning experience for me (as I have one or two of these kits going, along with god-knows how many other builds in-progress). If you do feel like shutting it down here too, please PM me and I will sent you my E-Mail address so that I can continue to follow the builds. Brad