Force

You're welcome. Even if you know the basic components and where they are placed on the engine it's easier to understand how they work if you actually see how the lines are routed.

Wich ones...the AMT or HRM?? I don't have any pics of either of them but someone else might have.

Here is the only pic I have found of the interrior of the Boss Truck Of America's sleepers...but it's impossible to see if it's walk through between them...it's doesn't look as if it is to the drivers cab though..

Here is an example of a Dry Sump.Oil System An example of a Fuel System. They started to use Vacuum Pumps in modern Pro Stock engines some years ago to make vacuum in the crank case wich makes horsepower, and many others use this system too...and here is a pic of how that system is set up. In fact the Pro Stock racers use two separate Vacuum systems now, one belt driven pump and one electric pump wich gives more vacuum for a short time and are only used under the run itself. A picture of the electric pump wich you can put anywhere on the car close to the engine. Hope this helps.

You can find an intake manifold and 4 Weber IDA's in the old AMT 63 Corvette kits, it's the only one I know of...oh...and it's for Big Block but as it's for a 1:25 scale kit it might fit a 1:24 Small Block, or widen it slighlty to fit the 1:24 Big Block. Otherwise Harold Bradford at Historic Racing Miniatures has very nice Weber IDA's in his resin Cobra FIA engine kits and F40 engine and suspension kits and he also sell the Weber IDA carbs and manifold separate...they are all for Ford Small Block but the carbs are usable. The manifold and carb kit costs around $10-11 at Strada Sports

There is also a limit on monthly traffic on a free account...and I have hit that a couple of times...but I'm far away from the storage limit. Otherwise Photobucket is good enough for me.

I have never done one yet but it's not rocket science so it can't be that hard. First of all, do a google search and find pictures of the part you want to do and study them closely...or even better...look at a real part,... try to replicate it with Evergreen or Plastruct rods, tubes and sheets to do the shapes you need, if you have a real part available you just measure the thing and divide the measurements by 24 or 25 depending on scale or if you dont you have to wing it a bit more and test fit often...and you might not get it right the first time. Another way is to copy an A-arm from a Revell/Monogram Pro Stock kit chassis...they don't differ much and looks basically the same from the early 80's up to today. That's what scratchbuilding is all about...trial and error, and you try until you get it right so you might have to do a couple wrong ones before you get one you're happy with.

I don't know of any airbrush that don't take regular lacquer or cellulose thinners for cleaning, maybe the Aztec doesn't wich is made from plastic. I have three airbrushes, one Thayer & Chandler Vega 2000 bottom feed, one Iwata Hi-Line HP-CH gravity feed and one cheap gravity feed airbrush bought at a hardware store, and I have never had any problems using lacquer or cellulose thinners in any of them...it's a tool used for painting and should take whatever thinners you would like to use in them without being destroyed. And for the Alclad...and other paints as well, allways use a regulator as lower pressures saves paint, and the Alclad doesn't need much pressure...but a bottom feed airbrush may need a bit more pressure to work right as the airflow draws the paint from the cup, a gravity feed needs less as the paint goes into the airbrush by itself. Lay the Alclad on thin, just as much to get coverage...too thick coats and you'll get "regular silver" and loose the chrome effect.

Well the Thunderbolt chassis should fit if the scale is correct as 1962-65 Fairlanes IRL has the same basic body and chassis. The 1966-67 Fairlanes has a different chassis as Ford did a totaly new Fairlane for 1966, that chassis looks much like the later Torino. I have a 1964 Fairlane 500 Sports Coupe myself wich I have owned for about 10 years so I have read up on them a bit.

Most of the auxiliary roof mounted AC units had inbuilt fans and had the air vents coming out at the bottom of the unit so it sat over a hole in the roof, either where a roof hatch had been on trucks who had that or you had to cut a hole for it, so the cool air was blowing up around your head. The only thing needed extra except for the unit itself was an AC compressor on the engine and the hoses from it to the AC unit. I had a neighbour who had this kind of unit on one of his trucks back in the late 70's.

That's probably true,I have not seen that one myself. But I bought the roof section from him a while ago and he had both AMT and Revell roof sections at that time...I know that as he sent me the wrong one first but I got the correct one later.

Nice cars Walter. I just eyeballed and winged the colors when I built my Sox & Martin 71 'Cuda years ago, I didn't have much to go by when I built it tho' other than a zeroxed black and white Hot Rod article of their 70 'Cuda and the Jo-Han boxart...so it's not correct but looks decent enough.

I would also do it as Walter describes. Many drag cars has the fuel cell or tank in front nowadays to get help from gravity to feed the engine.

Replicas & Miniatures Co Of Maryland also has a resin repop of the AMT Chopped 3 Window roof as a separate piece, and one for the Revell/Monogram kit.

Michael: These parts came in several kits from several manufacturers so photos of the parts you're wondering about might be the only way to be able to tell where the parts came from without speculating wildly. Because they could be from a Jo-Han kit, AMT kit, Revell kit or allmost any other manufacturer who has done a scale 426 Hemi. Be sure to ask your question under this category "Model Building Questions and Answers" so this thread doesn't go off topic more than it has allready.

Well AMT didn't do the tractors, plows and farm wagon trailers for them, they were originally Ertl kits, but AMT did a re-issue of the John Deere 4430 and the 310 Backhoe some time ago. But The Ertl Company bought AMT and MPC back in the 80's, RC2 bought the Ertl Company in the late 90's and Round 2 bought the model kit business from RC2 and now have the tooling...so it's for sure possible if the tooling is allright.

And Revell re-issued the old Monogram 1:24 36 Ford 3 Window Coupe a couple of years ago.

Yes the Tyrone Malone Kenworth K100 trucks with transport body was to haul his Kenworth W900 race trucks Super Boss and Bandag Bandit.

Both rods from the aux gearbox goes to one of the two sticks in the cab, the other stick is for the main gearbox.

The main reason for the lack of current NASCAR model kits is that the NASCAR kits they had before didn't sell well enough to motivate the cost for development of new kits and why is that!?!? Well all NASCAR fans are not model builders...but back when there were no diecast models around they had to buy a model kit and build it themselves (or have someone else doing it) if they wanted a NASCAR model on their shelf as nothing else were available to them...so AMT/MPC and Revell/Monogram most certainly sold lots of kits to people who were not in the hobby normaly. But now with all the diecast models the non modeler NASCAR fans can just buy diecast models of their favourite drivers cars and put them on the shelf with no work at all and they are done with it. That's what I mean with the NASCAR diecast models killed the NASCAR model kit market as the sales of the model kits dropped severely when the diecast models arrived on the market. And with the expencive licensing and high tooling costs nowadays you have to sell quite a lot to make any money...so if the sales are low it definantely doesn't motivate the model kit manufacturers to develop new current kits as the risk of loosing money is too large. The last NASCAR issues released were most likely made that cheap and toylike to save money on tooling and that backfired big time as the model builders didn't buy them due to the lack of detailing and accuracy, and they finally stopped making them. The NASCAR and even Drag Racing model kits were an itroduction and a way into the hobby for lots of kids as they could get a model of their favourite drivers cars, and many of us model builders have most likely started in the hobby that way, but now with all the diecast models available they don't have to build the models themselves anymore and are not drawn into the hobby the same way as many of us were...it's kind of like a vicious circle where all hangs together.

I have two different Jo-Han versions and two different Testors versions of the original Sox & Martin 'Cuda kits and all has only one set of cylinder heads, dual plug Hemi heads with chromed stamped sheet metal valve covers...so the other cylinder head option you have must be from another kit.

If you go the 65 RO hood scoop route Super Stock is out of the question as you could only use equipment that was available at the time for the specific car model in the Super Stock class, on the other hand if you do the Modified Production car the scoop is okey as you could modify some in that class. The Sox & Martin cars aren't easy subjects, they even raced two different Plymouth Superbirds pretty much at the same time, one in Super Stock E and one in C Modified Production. The SS/E car wich was raced for a very short time had no vinyl roof, no hood scoop and a Hemi with Rat Roaster dual 4bbl intake manifold and was one of two built, one SS/E 4-speed for Ronnie Sox and the other was a SS/EA automatic car for Jack Werst...both built for one reason and one reason only...to beat Ray Allen's SS/E 70 Chevelle Convertible...they interpreted the rule book a bit loosely on these two Superbirds with lots of for Super Stock illegal modifications done to them, and they were later called "Cheeterbirds". The C/MP car was used for a longer period than the SS/E car and had a black vinyl roof, a 440 sixpack hood scoop and I think it also had a Hemi but with a Tunnel Ram intake manifold and dual carbs, and it could for sure have had other engine combinatons under it's active life in the team. So it can be confusing at times.

I think the ready made NASCAR diecast models killed off the market for the more modern NASCAR model kits, back in the day when nothing else were available you had to get a model kit of your favourite drivers car and build it if you wanted to have one on your shelf, now you can just buy a diecast model and you're done.

Amen to that. They ran so many cars over the years in different classes and sanctioning bodys, with both Ronnie Sox, Herb McCandless and some other drivers doing the driving, so it's hard to keep up with what they were doing.

I don't say you are wrong by any means Water, I know you know your Mopars. But I found this text at the Mopar Hall Of Fame: Jake King was the power-maker behind the Sox & Martin race team. King really began his career in drag racing not as an engine builder, but as a driver. Jake drove Super Stock Fords for Atwood Ford before he was recruited away from the steering wheel by Buddy Martin. King’s real passion and his supreme talent was in building engines that were light years ahead of what just about everyone else in the sport was capable of engineering - he was a true mechanical artist and the 426 Hemi became Jake King’s canvas. All of Jake’s motors were painted Ford Blue as an homage to his early days as a Ford pilot and to easily identify his work. For the better part of ten years, Jake built the engines that won the championships, and countless Sox & Martin customer engines as well. Without Jake King, the golden age of Super Stock and Pro Stock would’ve been entirely different. So Jake King himself was a Ford racer before joining the Sox & Martin team, one car he drove was a 1964 Ford Thunderbolt in Super Stock for Atwater Ford. Jake King joined Sox & Martin late 1964 and the team would run Mercurys in 1965, and he stayed with the team until 1976 regarding to this article. http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/featuredvehicles/mopp_0906_1971_plymouth_440_powered_super_bird/. But it's not that important so it might be better if we got back on topic.