VW Dave

I was thinking the Revell '07 GT500, the new SuperSnake or the Revellogram '69 Shelby might have nice grille emblems molded-in...you could either foil-cast a copy of the emblem from one of those, or just hack a grille apart to get what you're after.

I think you're right, Dave; it was envious8420 who posted it. I agree the drill press is the best way, as it's one less thing to hold while doing the job....much easier and lots safer to boot.

I got a virgin original kit about 8 years ago, and I'm nearly ready to make a replica of my original 1:1 out of it; the longest delay was getting the 'flake paint right. I'm just hoping to pick up one or two of the reissues to help offset the price I paid for my original.

I took a little sunny day joyride last Monday to shoot fresh pics of my little toy car. '68 vintage tags were a Christmas gift from me to the car last year: Dash panel was signed by Bruce @ Import Carlisle 2009(car was at home): Stopped by the Rolling Bones Hot Rod Shop while out and about:

For small areas, I apply putty with used #11 X-Acto blades in my #1 handle. When they're beyond useful as very sharp things, they still make nice 'precision' putty spreaders. Cleanup is a snap too: after the putty has dried on the blade, I hit it with an emery board on both sides and it's ready to go again.

Go with another caster then. My first/last experience with RR was awful to say the least. I won't bore anyone with the details, but let's just say I was left twisting in the wind by dear old Don.

My dad always called those seemingly driverless cars "Flying Dutchmen."

Real.....real ugly too

Even if it wasn't his work, I'm sure he'd take credit for it.

Over the winter, I was spending maybe 20-25 hours a week on models...now that warmer weather is here, and I'm outside much more(lawn care, 1:1 car stuff, etc), I've slipped below the 5 hour mark.

A thin, strong epoxy joint is exactly what I was after when I first heard of the 'layup' method, and I certainly agree with you about the minimal contribution the paper actually offers to the strength of the joint. However..... ...I've yet to have an issue with epoxy joints not being strong enough on a model car body, so I figured the method I outlined would be at least sufficient.

I really like the molded-in/reversed shaker scoop, and the use of the louvers under the nose is very cool; I'm looking forward to updates on this one for sure. My only possible critique? I think you've installed the valve cover in the picture upside-down:

If it is a strong joint you need, and it won't show because it's on the inside of the body shell, here's the method I have employed on more than a few occasions: 5-minute epoxy and small strips of paper towel, laid up like fiberglass. Unfortunately, I have yet to photograph the process - mainly due to the short working time of the epoxy. I get a bit of epoxy on the joint, then lay a few small strips of paper towel over it in varying directions; I then mat the paper down into the epoxy with a toothpick until it gets nearly transparent, and often add a little more epoxy over the top surface. One time I even wove very narrow strips of paper towel together before laying it up, but I feel the added work made little or no difference. This method makes for a very strong glue joint, and I have even used it on 1:1 car parts. A co-worker bought a set of JDM turn signal assemblies for his WRX from an Ebay seller in Japan, and one arrived with a mounting tab cracked almost all the way through. I fixed the part with the epoxy/layup method, and used my Dremel to shape the repaired area so the mounting tab looked like new. That repair was done about 3-1/2 years ago, and the part is still on the car.

True, but 9-1/2 times out of 10 when folks say 'Armor All' they mean the protectant

...and a model contest losing their security deposit, then needing to find another venue for next year's event. It's a cool idea, and I'm sure YouTubers would eat it up, but I'd say it has no place on a contest table.

I was thinking the same thing...maybe they missed your location? I'll bet you can find those Jada diecasts on Ebay UK, possibly from a seller on your side of 'the pond.' Your other option might be a set of Monogram/Revell 427 Cobra wheels with Pegasus sleeves fitted.

Took the words right outta my mouse, Rob. Those full covers oughta look the business against a black car.

Thanks, and you are right, it is TS-60 pearl green. I bought the paint about 3 years ago because it was sooo cool, but didn't have the right model to put it on until now. I'm not adding any more gloss to it, because I want it to look like a well-preserved but used 40+ year-old car(like Steele's purple roadster)

If you get serious about that conversion, drop me a line; I don't live too far from my buddy Mark, and he allows me full access for photos of his XB's. You'd love his stock '74 almost as much as his Mad Max replica

A friend of mine here in NY who has 2 RHD XB Falcons sent me a link to the 'sneak peek' when that film came out, and I've been jonesing to see it ever since. I picked up a copy of the US magazine(Hot Rod, IIRC) that did a full feature on Bana's XB when it was done, and it nearly broke my heart when he crashed it in the 2007 Rally Tasmania:

Thanks for the kudos. I was thinking about turbo inlets too, Joe, but I have a feeling that you may need larger than 3/16" to make them look right.

The exhibit may have rotated out as of this past weekend, but I have added a hundred or so detail(OK, 'artsy') photos to my album. Here's a couple of my favorites from the new batch:

Count me as a fan too....I really like it. A nice blend of the old and the new, with a ton of attitude thrown in for good measure.

Up until now, you've been lucky. As others have said, enamels can take quite a while to dry/cure/gas out. If you lay clear over enamel that hasn't finished the outgassing process, chances are you'll get the same results. When I used to shoot everything in enamel, I'd give a week for each coat to dry before moving on.

Thanks for the kudos, guys; I think the enamel has finally finished gassing out Joe - The header lines up fine, the big chrome generator just blocked your view in the 1st photo; in this workbench photo(from the link provided) you can see it better: