VW Dave

An awesome build in its own right, and I like it even more because you nailed the real car's look. Your friend is a lucky guy.

I've yet to try it, but it makes sense that black rubber o-rings could work

Steve - That would be muchly appreciated. Thanks for that.

I got mine from Jimmy at the NNL East a couple years ago, and have yet to lay hands on it.....and mine never came with instructions. That must have been a newer addition.

I agree, and it's also a very useful tool for weathering.

I'm not usually a fan of the oversized wheels, but the whole thing works for me; great job, and I love the backstory too.....so, when are you gonna do the 'before' version?

I've never done the marking thing on any of my own models, but I do sign & date the underside of display case bases on commissioned & gift builds.

No need to apologize for asking questions; it's the best way to get answers, and there's lots of those here. As far as the primer goes, I always say use what's compatible with the paint you are using - lacquer with lacquer, enamel with enamel, etc. If you are not sure of the paint's makeup, simply stick with the same brand/line when buying your paint and primer.

I like that a bunch! Now, where did I put that Revell snapper Camaro kit? It sure looks mean tubbed and low-slung like that, but I doubt it will wind up a street car; the wing & chute obscuring the taillights and the open pipes dumping out through the front fenders tell me it's purely meant for the strip.

It's near impossible to photograph, but I got very favorable results on the seat for my son's Revell chopper by using Krylon 'Make it Suede' textured paint topped with Tamiya semigloss black:

Al - If you ever get tired of having that Kyote buggy on your shelf, I can dispose of it for you.

If that body isn't salvageable, I might have an extra one laying about.

Wish it wasn't a fake

I never had that version, but I did build the one called 'ThunderStruck' when I was a much younger fella; it was molded in black, had gold decals and wasn't a full-on monster truck. IIRC, it was a pretty good model....until I got to it with a full tube of glue.

Looks good, but I'd like to see better pics of it

I agree. It's almost a shame to paint/weather all that stuff and hide it under a channeled body.

Took the words right outta my mouse, brother Matt.

Righteous build indeed. Me likey

I've been having a hard time getting myself together with time and inspiration.....it's good to hear it's happening somewhere, and I'm looking forward to more on this build.

Still no word from joemac...I wonder if he's given up on the project?

Lownslow - Great tutorial! Clear pics, and easy-to-follow steps. Thanks very much for sharing it with the board. Any acrylic will; I've used both Tamiya and Floquil with good results.

The cloudiness and cracking probably came from laying the DullCote on too heavy; it is a lacquer after all. Try it in one or two lighter, 'misty' coats, and you should get better results. While the one in the middle looks good, I believe the DullCote solution is the best one.

I may be an illiterate hack, but it occurred to me that you should ask the person who is making the mold and copies. Personally, I'd use JB-Weld like Zipper suggested. Like him I've had good results using it on diecast bodies.

I started at about age 6 or 7, and turned 40 just before Christmas; except for a couple of minor pauses(girls, 1:1 cars, 'contest burnout' in my teens, etc), I'd say I've been at it for 30+ years.

That was my first thought as well, although all of the above ideas will work(depending on what color the part was molded in). If it is clear, I'd recommend trying this on a spare clear part or the sprue: wet sanding.