VW Dave

Yeah..I think they did say 'weathered.'

If he did, it wasn't the original 'Eliminator' coupe...that was done by Don 'Buffy' Thelan(IIRC his shop was called 'Buffalo Motors')

Mailed the snake emblem out a week or so ago to Ben.....no word yet if it arrived.

I agree, it's an age-old trick...but it never gets old. I'm into BB guns, so I always have a large container of Crosman Copperheads within reach; 2 go in a standard Testors jar, and 3 in a Model Master jar. I actually hold the jar upside-down when I initiate the shaking process, and change the jar's position a couple of times before I'm done.

Took the words right outta my mouse. I'm not a huge fan of tuner cars, but I do like a clean build regardless of the subject matter.

I've only used the spray, so I can't speak for the airbrush version, but I don't clear it at all. Before using it on any model parts I did a few plastic spoon tests and, like Bradley said, I also determined that clear does indeed dull the chrome effect. Their 'super clear' wasn't on the shelf in a spray, so I can't say for sure if it works....if you do find out, by all means let us know.

Can't say why, and I'm OK with it if I'm wrong....but I said 'real.'

I was thinking the same thing....just enough damage to be believable, and you didn't go overboard(which is waaay too easy to let happen).

Slick indeed! I'm really diggin' this one, and looking forward to more pictures/updates.

I'm usually a bigger fan of the '67-68 Camaros, but that '69 really speaks to me....green on green 'plain Jane' sleeper, steelies and dog dishes - me likey!

At this point, you have very little to lose....I would mask the lid @ the panel lines and try to shoot a light coat of color over the existing paint. The only thing you might run into there is color variation, due to the additional color coat(s) being added on top of the existing paint job(vs.over your primer like the rest of the body). If you're not happy with the outcome, then you will have to strip and re-shoot the whole body.

I've used it over Tamiya TS-14 gloss black with good results; the key is 2 or 3 misty coats, rather than one wet coat. I don't have any better pictures, but I did the headers for my Deuce with Spaz-Stix:

The MCG material looks like vinyl, which would be correct for a '57 Beetle's ragtop; after '53 or 54 they went from canvas to vinyl.

I'm a big fan of Tamiya's metallic sprays, and I have discovered that they can become completely different colors when shot over different base colors. Here's TS-19 metallic blue over(from left to right): TS-14 gloss black, TS-38 gunmetal, and TS-30 silver leaf:

Great job, Dwayne; I really like how it's coming out. I may have the solution to your ragtop dilemma: I used MCG self-adhesive vinyl top material for the open ragtop on my '56. I folded the material over on itself(a couple drops of CA helped ensure it stays together), and I later added a strip of styrene for support across the leading edge. If your Baja was a factory ragtop car, you may need to make the opening in the model's roof bigger.

I'd love to know what make and model the OP is talking about before offering any advice

Wimbledon white with Guards blue stripes is a good choice for a '65...and the only one they offered. I hate to say it, but you're maybe better off leaving the body proportions as-is(unless your client wants it changed). Revell really screwed the pooch on that model, and the 'squashed' roofline was the proof they botched it. I bought one from when it first came out, and was so disgusted by it that I packed it away until I finally sold it on Ebay a year ago.

I like buggies low and tough looking, and yours nailed the look. I also love the Mustang taillights, as they were quite the popular item for many buggy builders. My earliest buggy memory is from the late 70s: us kids all drooled over a neighbor's metalflake green Manx with the same taillights. I missed the chance to buy that little car in the late 1990s by one day, but I got over it when my blue Manx pretty much fell into my lap shortly after.

Me likey!

IIRC the '69 H/O had a 400, and all of them that were installed in 4-4-2s and H/O's were gold. The engine in the '70 4-4-2 is a 455, and it should be metallic blue.My oldest brother has a '70 ragtop 4-4-2 that he's owned since 1981, and his 455 is blue.

Harry - As another poster speculated, the punch-outs on the regi and inspection stickers are the expiration dates. To this day NYS safety inspections are required annually, and passenger car registration renewals used to be annual as well(vintage regi & vanity tagged cars still are). I'm about 99.9% sure that all new car dealers in NY have licenses to perform inspections, so those stickers were more than likely applied prior to customer delivery. Based on the Sept/Oct '78 dates on the regi & inspection stickers, and what appears to be part number labels and cosmoline on the suspension parts, I'd lean towards that car being the real deal.

I'd classify The Car Show as The Man Show with cars peppered on it; it's not awful, but it's also not something I plan to sit and watch.

The rain you're driving into does, but your rear tires kick up a lot of water and aim it right at the back of your head.....I know this too well, after being caught in a couple soakers over the years(and my rear tires have more body over them than that T's): I have to agree with the above comment about the guy being a 'warrior.' If it were me I'd probably be hiding under a bridge waiting for the storm to pass.

I agree, the story was well-written and presented; IIRC, Car & Driver did a feature on Bruce a couple of years back as well. My wife and I recognized Bruce's workshop in a couple of the photos, which was a spot we got to visit/lend a hand while on vacation in SoCal a few years back.

By your original post, it sounded like you wanted a chrome one, not PE...if a chrome kit one will work, I can send you one from my '07 GT500 kit. Email me if I can help.