VW Dave

Does this friend of yours have any more of those p-slots...or plans to make more? Nice look on that Mk1, btw.

I'm really diggin' this build, as I'm a big fan of hammered '32 Tudors.....and it's made me dig my unfinished Flintstone deuce out for another 'shot at the title.' With Rolling Bones Hot Rod Shop less than an hour's drive, I'm drawing heavily on their stuff for inspiration...mainly the blown flatty Tudor they built for fellow upstater Mike Manno: And here's a link to a short video I shot of it 'entertaining' the attendees of the 2008 winter garage party.

With some very nice resin bits from The Modelhaus and Drag City Castings(two truly reliable sources for resin parts ), I'm turning an AMT '67 Z28 into the RS/SS from the movie 'Better Off Dead." - Actually, I'm doing two versions of the car; a 'before and after' as seen in the film. Click the line below to visit the current owner's website devoted...and I mean DEVOTED to the car: I WANT MY TWO DOLLARS!!!

umm, the gold hood you mentioned is a standard flat Cutlass/442 hood; the '69 W-30 & W-31 used air scoops under the bumper, while the scooped hood didn't come along until 1970. I'm just sayin. '69 W-30: '70 W-30: Not to stray too far off the topic, Mark's doing a great job on those 'phantom' Olds trucks. I've had the opportunity to see them in person, and even brainstorm with him, as we live in neighboring towns.

Love it, love it, love it!! I really like the underhood details, fuel filler, and those GT40 tires look right at home in the rear fenderwells.

Thanks, David! I have been searching for several years for the right paint that would replicate the original gel-coat flake on my 1:1 Meyers Manx, and this stuff finally met the challenge Sure, the flakes may be a smidge too large for the scale, but the 60's custom paint and fiberglass finishes were kinda 'out there' anyway. I did up a switch plate cover for my garage using the blue flake, and it matched so well it almost disappeared on the Manx's front fender - I had Bruce Meyers autograph it with a silver Sharpie, clearcoated it and installed it in the garage.

For a non-IPMS show, I'd simply check with the host club ahead of time; many times, the rules governing 'box stock' builds can vary by the event. The addition of rigging, antennas and seat belts is usually not within the rules at model car-specific events. Some event also have what is referred to as 'parts box stock' classes, where parts swapped from other kits are acceptable, but no scratchbuilding or aftermarket details are allowed.

First of all, thanks for the kind words, Brian. Actually, I brushed the flake paint on; only the base green and top clear coat(of three) were sprayed on. I'm not sure I'd recommend shooting it through an airbrush due to the flake size. Here's the acrylic flake paint itself: And my first full-body job with it: I've laid out a whole 'how to' in my Fotki - click the link: GETTIN' FLAKY WITH IT

Smooth and low...me likey, Tom.

Nice work, Dan - especially on the '49. After reading others' methods of use, I tried the Instant Rust 'baggie' trick for the first time recently, and will never do it again. The result was very shiny and 'crystalized' rust, which didn't look right to me.

Thanks for the kudos, you guys; this was a fun build, and for a great "client." I've already started on his next model, a '69 Charger based on his 1:64 Maisto toy....he knows it as his 'aaahh-teee cha-cha.'

Better late than never indeed..... Here's my daily driver('98 Subie Outback), and my nice day toy(unrestored '68 Meyers Manx):

Sorry for not replying sooner, but.....did I hear somebody say, "metalflake paints for model cars?" Click the link for more details: Flake it!!!

After a few months of inactivity, I finally wrapped up the RM 'Torch' chopper I built for my son; he picked the kit out when he was just under a year old, and he will be 2 this coming November. Here's a couple pics, and a link to my whole Fotki album of the model: "the DOMinator" Thanks for looking, and comments(be they good or bad) are always welcome.

It's possible you didn't shake the base paint enough(to stir up the metal content), or applied the top solution too early. I try to apply the base and top finishes a day apart, or even more. 'Random reapplication' of the top solution, which was mentioned in a previous reply, is another way to get good results. Real rust is anything but uniform. I've gotten good results using a 1" foam brush to apply the base paint, using the technique called stippling; it leaves a light amount of material(with a bit of texture), and no brush strokes...kinda like drybrushing, but without the side-to-side motion of actual 'brushing.' I've also dry-sanded the rust with 700 grit paper to tone it down, and give a more realistic patina finish. I used the foam brush stippling method and dry-sanding on my Charger's front fenders:

Those are the 2 parts of the same "Instant Rust" set I mentioned above; I'm guessing you got them separately, which gives you bigger bottles than the set does. That's impressive for your first attempt at weathering....my first was long ago, and far from that good.

I'd say Google images of a 'chassis dyno,' or check out a few videos on Youtube.....rest assured there's a ton of dyno videos there.

A buddy who tints professionally told me that the film is not compatible with plastic, so it will break down over time...no telling how long that is, however. I've had good results using tinted report covers from a local office supply store; the thickness is much more accurate than kit glass, if you plan on having them half-open, and you can double the layers to make a darker shade. The material cuts easy with scissors, and I use MicroScale 'Krystal Kleer' or 5-minute epoxy to glue them in.

Great stance!! I'm liking the direction this build is headed in, and I'm a sucker for hammered '32 Tudors anyway, so I'll keep watching this thread. I do, however, feel that I need to chime in on this bit: The thickness of the resin isn't entirely the issue here. Jimmy's body is actually based on the old Revell 'Orange Crate' body(and subsequent reissues), so it is indeed smaller than the newer '32 sedan release.

I agree with you, the psychobilly sound is like crack; as a long-time surf music fan and confirmed car guy, it works fine for me. For the record, IMO the Stray Cats were about 20 years ahead of their time.

My thoughts exactly. Valspar has a suede finish paint that is sold at Michael's stores, and it is the same stuff that used to me marketed as Krylon "Make it Suede."

My first car was an '84 (Che)Vette, so they have a special place in my heart....I'm looking forward to this build for sure.

Offbeat and way cool...me likey, Chuck!

Me likey.

I'd hate like hell to have to pick just one of mine, but this one would surely be high on the save list. My 'Joe Dirt' Daytona Charger. I did a lot of research, pushed my skills to a new level, and had a lot of fun in the process....I feel it's my build with the most character.