Alyn

John, great job turning the blob of red styrene into something that actually looking like an engine. Some of these pattern makers either don't think we know what an engine looks like, or they don't care

yeh, that's what I meant to say, and a big Thank You for providing us all a respite from our caves

I've seen the resin based model on contest tables at least a couple of times.With the unusual shape, it catches your eye. The color is a factor as well. I makes for a really nice curbside. To give due credit, Charles Nearburg took the record in 2010 at Mike Cook's Top Oil Shootout on the Bonneville Salt Flats. This with a single engine, rear drive streamliner. It's still amazing that the Goldenrod record stood for so many decades.

Well, Bill, it looks like you've got the brass and soldering thing handled too. You might as well move on to painting complex oil portraits on Cathedral ceilings. We need to find something challenging to keep you busy and out of trouble. later bud ...

Non-stop details. Thanks for taking the time to share, professor

Man, there's a lot to like with this one. Ton's of cool details every where you look. Nice work on the brake system. Looks good end-to-end.

Yeh, Bill. You may want to consider running it across the Barrett/Jackson auction block when it's done. Let's see if we can get the first $1,000,000.00 model. Plus, that would provide you with the money to buy more tools. Looks like you're off to a great start on the frame. The center cross-member looks cool. Good engineering. Don't make the mistake I did and leave your peanut butter samich on the hot brass. It burns the bread and melts the peanut butter!

Mike, my problem is that if I want to change something, it result in the need to change 5 other thngs to accomodate it. Build some spindles to replace the steel axle; gotta build a tie rod, gotta build a pitman arm and/or drag link to tie into the steering box, new spindles too small, gotta modify the wheel hub, blah, blah, blah ... Thanks, Darren. I have a problem of never throwing stuff away, but sometimes things finally do come in handy. Bill, I'd crash and burn not knowing what knob to turn

Dave, I dig the bubble tops, but at the rate I build, and considering numerous kits already on deck, you can look for my next Pontiac project sometime in 2030.

Nicely done. Looks great with the outdoor shots.

Thanks, Ron. I appreciate it. I love this one too. Wish I could make it about 25 times bigger.

flawless ...

This is turning into one slick truck, and your workmanship is impressive.

excellent job of blending the two bodies. Your result looks better than the original, especially with the haircut.

Wish I would have thought of this conversion; great reason to run out and grab this new 57 Ford kit. Your progress looks great so far. I think we may be witnessing a "favorite" in the making.

Thanks for the idea, Joe. I do have some pretty small diameter heatshrink tubing, but I think it would add too much thickness to the wire. I may just build it up with a few coats of Future and then dull it down. Your enthusiasm is contagious, Richard. Thanks for checking in. Here's an update from the past few days work. First off, I hate doors and hoods that don't stay closed, or don't set right. To make sure that isn't a problem, I imbedded a small rare earth magnet in the door. The magnet is only 1/16" in diameter so it was easy enough to drill a shallow hole and press it in with a dab of glue. There will be a corresponding strip of ferrous metal on the front edge of the seat frame to attract the magnet. My research pics have shown additional running board bracing that isn't included in the AMT kit. The bracing was duplicated using some 1mm square and flat Evergreen rod. Here's the frame mocked up with the fenders and running boards. On the rear brace, the center section of the longest rod (the top one when viewing upside down) will be cut out later. It is only there now for strength during the construction phase. Just like the rear axle, AMT's offering for a front axle could be improved. You can clearly see the metal axle that crosses behind the plastic axle and leaf spring. I dipped the axle in Blacken It to see if that would hide it, but finally decided that was only marginally better. Considering the detail the rest of this little truck is getting, I decided to take on the front axle as well. The ends of the axle were modified to accept a steering knuckle/spindle. This part was made up from some 1/16" brass rod and tube, soldered together and filed to shape. Here's the knuckles fitted to the axle Finally, here's a mock-up shot of the truck up on it's wheels. The modifications to the front axle were only meant to get rid of the full width metal axle. The steering capability is a plus. A tie-rod and pitman arm will need to be constructed to finish it off.

Somebody has to play the part of Snidley P. Whiplash Somebody has to play the part of Snidely P. Whiplash

Cool, class is in session. Thanks for posting up this WIP, Mark. You're utilzing some interesting techniques. Great work so far; clean and accurate details.

Welcome back ! Your comment about the smells really hit home. I quit for 45 years, but the smell of Testor's tube glue and little bottles of paint was immediately recognizable. Looks like you're off to a good (re)start. Let us know when you find yourself browsing the hobby and fabric stores repeatably for "stuff you can use on your next model". Tha's when the hook is set deep.

Great Now I'm gonna have to google "nefarious" !

Danno, based on your use of alternate fonts, you're obviously a Revell insider with an agenda. I'm gonna refuse to buy a kit and enter the contest just to spite you. SNAP !

Thanks for the great encouragement, y'all James, glad to hear you like the yellow 29. I've gotten a lot of good feedback on that one. There's a half dozen pics in my gallery if you haven't seen them yet. Mike, you're too kind my friend. The lug is pretty simple. It's a short length of 1/32" brass tube with 1/2 flattened and drilled. The only thing special I did was to insert a brass rod half-way in the tube prior to squshing the flat side. This helped to force a sharp transition between the round end and the flat side. Then it was just a matter of filing off the corners of the flat side and drilling the hole. The cable is the ever popular 30g wire-wrap wire. I'm not sure it was such a good choice. The plug wires will be a similar diameter (.020"). In reality, this cable should be larger than the plug wires. I'm trying to decide if or what I should do about it. I don't want to make another lug for larger wire because I think the lug looks just right. Back to the bench You too, Bill. You've got some soldering to attend to.

I'd buy one in a heartbeat if I had the spare dough. As previously mentioned, designers from all the manufacturers are faced with similar constraints and challenges, like aero, ergonomics, lowering weight, MPG, materials, manufacturing, etc. Look at vehicles in any category, the similarities abound. The C7 is an excellent evolution of the previous designs and doesn't suffer from the sameness like the C5-C6. They've also managed to incorporate some Chevy family design queues as well. Evolving, yet edgy.

That's a good idea, Bill, but couldn't AMT use oval shaped ejector pins??? Here's what I've been up to the last few days. Old style ground strap. This started out as the ground shield on some old headphone cable. The newer stuff doesn't use this any more. Too bad. I pulled the wire apart and crushed the braided shield flat in some non-serrated pliers. The end is some .003" aluminum with a Grandt Line bolt to fasten it down. It will end up attached to the bell housing. Here's the live side. A small section of brass tubing with the end flattened and drilled makes up the cable lug. Grandt Line again on the bolt. This one will attach to the starter motor. and ... The paint is starting to flow. I mixed up a combination of green, dark blue and flat white from the little 1/4 oz. Testors enamel bottles and airbrushed the engine block and head. The head isn't glued on yet, so the gasket isn't seated. It should look better once it's clamped and glued in place. The lower radiator tube and hose is brass and heat shrink tubing with .003" bright aluminum used for hose clamps. You can see the small hole in the side of the bell housing where the ground strap will connect. I'll have to scrape the paint away to get a good electrical connection.

Man, you really know how to pick 'em, John. Love how you've already captured the essence of the car. Kinda looks like a Frankenkustom. I'm looking forward to see if you do the Hooters girls in Alclad chrome. Oh My !