Alyn

Bill is a large monkey. He just has small hands

nicely engineered, Mark. Can you mention why you went with bronze for the lower mount? Also, is the DeDion design typical of Sevens, or something you wanted to try in scale?

and 3. It is way cool I saw this body at the last Slammers meeting. Very impressive detail and uniform thickness (actually thin ness). The parts fit together very nicely as well. Looking forward to you progress and finished model at the Heartland this year.

That tire/wheel package is beautiful. Love it man. Great paint too. the perfect period color with just the right amount of chipping. Love the way you do these old Chevy trucks, Virgil.

and finally some color. I figured this two-tone combo of black and green would give a nice vintage look. fenders: body: now that the paint's flowing, this thing is finally starting to look like something. I love how paint transforms ... and the last one for now;

thanks guys, for your continued support of this project. I started prepping the body for paint yesterday, so I should be able to post up some color shots in the next few days.

love the paint job, Doug. Your masking edges look exceptionally clean too.

Here's some of the final shots of the chassis before I start mounting the fenders and body. The steering column and related parts are only mocked up. In order to make the steering operational, the column has to be run up through the steering box from the bottom up. Then the throttle and spark controls and steering wheel are added. This will have to be done after the body is mounted, so these parts aren't painted or glued/soldered at this point. Same goes for the hand brake and drivers side brake rod. Otherwise, the chassis is pretty much done. After the body is mounted, a lot of this detail will never be seen again. Full working steering; when the front wheels are turned, the steering wheel turns in the appropriate direction. Brake rod is not yet mounted on this side. I took the shot below to mimic an online photo that I had used to get some good chassis detail. You can see that the rear axle tubes could stand to be narrower, but otherwise I'm pretty happy with the chassis. Now on to the body. thanks for looking in

This thing is like a detail buffet; so many things to look at and you're afraid to miss out on something. Luckily we can come back for more. Fascinating, beautiful model.

didn't want to make him blush

I'm with Bill, makes me want to swat the dust off my jeans. Nice little "where's Waldo" trip; flipping through the photos looking for cool details. The weathering on the paint job is great. One of my favorite details is the open radiator detail, nicely done !

Between this one and the truck, it's hard to say which one I love more, so It's really good to hear you'll have both at the Heartland. great work !

Just had the pleasure of seeing the latest rendition of the billuminum cuda in person at our monthly KC Slammers meeting. Even though it's been said many times before; this thing looks even cooler in person. The steering u-joint is so small it's hard to appreciate with the naked eye, yet it is fully functional and surprisingly stout. There's not a part on this car that isn't just totally amazing. Bill does make good stuff

Hey buddy, we all knew you'd knock this one out of the park, but, my God, Bill, this is getting serious. BTW, I'd stick with the billuminum shaft over the carbon fiber. The welds look too cool to remove. you make good stuff

The chassis looks great, but I'm more impressed with the rear body work. Very nice, Mark

How excellent is that ! Great detail, Chris. You know no bounds

nice colors and patina.

Mighty purdy, Bill. The steering rack looks fantastic with the extra details added. How did you end up building the dust boots?

Awesome ! Thank God you survived the ordeal, and welcome to the Type II world. Good luck on quitting smoking. Many of us know how hard that can be.

Actually, I think that was the problem, Randy. Those light spots looked day-glow to me Here they are after all paint work is done. I wish I would have painted the clamps silver instead of black; they'd show up better. They will still get some dust with a bit of chalk powder, but they'll look pretty much like this

John, this thing is just oozing with cool modelers solutions in every detail you look at. It's a pleasure to watch you do your thing.

Great turn of phrase. This should be our mantra.

Thanks, Bill. I have done some touch up on the spokes and they look much better. I finished paintng the green on the other wheels and then dabbed some Tamiya brown acrylic at the base of the spokes and around the hubs. They look pretty good now. I also added the valve stems. After the final touch up, the wheels have all kinds of paint on them. There's a layer of Plasticoat primer, Krylon enamel, artists oils, Model Masters clear lacquer, Tamiya synthetic lacquer, and Tamiya water born acrylic. DId I miss any? I still plan on painting the clamps (Floquil) black with either silver or gold bolts, and also dry brush the hubs and apply some weathering powders. David, thanks for the compliment. I focus on the details, so your comments mean alot.

This ones getting off to an interesting start. Nice details!

Here's the results of about a four day process on the wheels. I use artist oils, so planning for drying time is important. I painted the wheels with some Krylon Meringue and let it set for a day. Then oils were used for the wood grain, starting with brushing on a coat of yellow ochre. Even though some quick drying medium was mixed in, this was left to dry for a day as well. Once the underlying colors were dry some blobs of raw sienna, burnt sienna, raw umber and burnt umber were smeared on a pallet. These were randomly applied in dabs and streaks by brush, followed by further streaking with a thin dry brush to try and add a little wood grain effect. After another day and a half of drying time the spokes were covered in semi-gloss dull coat; also by brush. Add another day of drying time This morning I masked around the hub and shot some flat black. This evening, I masked off the spokes and the hub and shot the green. You can see the color of the underlying base coat on the three that haven't been painted green yet. I wish they all turned out like the one on the left, but this was too much work for do-overs. Here's the green one with the tire mounted. I still plan on dabbing some dark brown on some of the lighter areas where the base coat shows through, add valve stems, and hand paint the rim clamps either silver or black. I had some spare time while watching all the paint dry, so I scratch built a screw driver. It'll end up in a tool box later on. I also toned down the leather cracking on the seat cushion. Here's how it looks so far with some further weathering still to come.