Brian Fishburn

Mark, I think I may have worded my thoughts in a misleading way. Perhaps I should have said Some people take winning contests way too seriously. I assure you, I take it seriously, too. But, I take anything that's fun seriously. But I know guys who get so fixated on winning at contests, that they don't seem to have much fun. If that works for them, then good for them. It's just not my cup of tea. The only model I ever see as competition that I must beat is the last model I built. I constantly work to improve, and I'll suck up as many good ideas from other builders as I can. Sometimes, I'm lucky enough to come up with something worth sharing with them, too. And I almost never show up at a contest as a spectator only. I'll always bring something along to compete. Sometimes I win, but usually, I'm just fill- among the better models, but not one of the top dogs. Ain't no lyin'- I like it when I win, but it's not going to ruin my day if I don't, and it's not going to be the high point if I do. That is my approach for maximum enjoyment. I have no misconception that it is the correct approach for everyone, because I KNOW that it isn't. Everybody knows whether or not they're having fun, and that's all that matters with hobbies.

I fail to see how such a contest would "push the envelope" It seems to me that the guys capable are doing just that without the need for any such contest. That said, if you wanna have the contest, go for it! If it's close, I'll go. If it's not- I'll be drooling while waiting for the pictures. Hopefully get a few ideas to make my building more fun and maybe even better. This is a hobby, it's supposed to be fun. There are some guys that take it WAY too seriously. But that is only my opinion, and opinions are like turds- everyone has them, and they all stink. Except mine Wait, maybe taking it too seriously is what makes it fun for the people who do. If that's the case, then they win, too. To me, a model contest is for seeing old friends, making new ones, seeing what everyone's been up to at their benches, and maybe scoring something cool at the swap meet. But, that's just me. I think I've already covered the opinion thing. And, in a sense- this forum is a LOT like a contest.

And on a 4 wheel drive Hummer chassis! With a spotted owl for a hood ornament.

I need to go look through Dad's books- he also had a 67 LeSabre, and invested in a factory shop manual. If he didn't let it go with the Skylark, it's still there, and would have the tranny pictures.

Zed, can I come hang out in your paint shop while you work. I'll sweep it and dust to earn my keep.

Wasn't the Super Turbine 300 essentially a Powerglide with a BOP bolt pattern? They sure were fun to drive- I learned to drive on a 67 Skylark with a 340 4bbl and a ST 300 GONNA HAVE TO GET A COUPLE OF THESE KITS!

The only 351W's I know of out there are in the AMT '92 Ford pickup variants (LB, Flareside and Lightning) or in the R-M 98 Shelby s-351. The R-M one is nicer, but these both have serpentine belt and fuel injection setups. Going with a v-belt setup wouldn't be too bad, would just have to scrounge the parts box for some accessories and pulleys. Getting carbureted will take some work- a carburetor manifold from a 289 or 302 would be the best starting point, but if it's scale correct, it will have to be widened to meet up with the heads on a 351W. That's the biggest difference- the 351W is wider across the top than the 289/302. Otherwise the bigger Windsor is going to look the same. Well, the 351W is also a touch wider across the bottom than the other two, but it's a small enough difference that it won't matter in scale.

Well, let's see: Bob does paint work first Bill does paint work last Both build beautiful models I'd say there isn't a "correct" answer. Do it however it works for you. It IS interesting to read the different takes on it, though.

For any FE Ford (331, 352, 360, 390, 406, 410, 427, 428) the amt 60 Starliner is a great starting point. You may have to dig around for the valve covers and intake you want, but the base engine is outstanding. The AMT 66 Fairlane and 67 Cyclone kits off excellent FE's as well.

I can't speak for worst EVER, but worst in recent memory is easily the R-M '59 Chevy Impala. When I was looking through the box, and assembling the subassemblies, it looked like such a jewel. Then came time to put it all together. BLEH! So, I took it back apart, redid the interior, and tried to put it together again. Double BLEH! So now, it's just going to be a case of do the best I can with it.

Rob, thanks for pointing out my inaccuracy. In light of this, I withdraw my nomination, though it WAS a hack of a great play on Revell's part. I'd have to throw equal votes to Tamiya's Enzo and Revell's 49 Merc. The Enzo is much better engineered, but the Merc is much better subject matter. My opinion- your mileage may vary.

well, I've certainly learned something from this thread- If I come across an unbuildable stool sample of a kit, I need to send it to Bill, where it will be turned into something quite nice. What's your address again, Bill?

It was "some dude."

While it is four kits, I have to say if not the kit of the decade, it is the "idea of the decade"- Revell's '32 Fords. Off the same basic platform, they've given us four different kits so far. The last couple have had two complete engines, and the possibilities for kit bashing between the kits are plentiful, if not endless. Oh, and that's four kits SO FAR.

Don't be shy about posting any more pictures! Those look very good to me! Someone suggested adjusting white balance on your camera. This works wonders. As an alternative, if you can photo them under a combination of flourescent and incandescent lighting, it helps. Outside is good, too.

That grill upgrade was time very well spent. It looks much better this way!

Nicholas- that is excellent work!!!! Keep building them- you're already doing good, and the more you build, the better you'll get! Just remember to follow your Dad's advice on model cars and college football- he's pretty smart with both!

I'll play along. I think I have something for most everyone I DO love GTO's A little Mopar action followed closely (ha!) by (yeah, it's technically a pony car, not a muscle car. Sue me) A little bowtie pony car One I built and gave away More mopar There's a GTO back there!

The best beater models are the ones where the builder has taken the time to find out how the real things rusted and duplicated that in the build. Clearly, you have done that, and it paid off big time in the finished results!

I'd call it "Hauling Arse" or something similar. Ed's right about the dollies- there are some tows that you just can't do with any of the vehicles wheels on the ground. I had to tow a FWD car with a bad rear wheel bearing one night. Dolly time. Ed's also right about the "V" company making some wierd stuff. The truck I primarily used (Didn't own it- drove for someone else part time for funsies and spare $) Had no boom- it was wheel lift only. But it had a winch. For extrications, I could attach a pulley to the wheel lift, raise it up high, and run the winch cable over the pulley. Weird, weird truck. I was told it was for parking garages and other limited height applications.

If this is what you turn out when you're "just starting," I can't wait to see what you do in a year or two! This is nice!

Abe! Missed you at the club meeting today! I even brought a newly finished model! I have a set from a Dale Jr Monte Carlo that you can have if you want. Brian

Auction refugee: after Katie worked her magic: This was the paint job from he.... I had to strip this thing at least 10 times! Katie had to dress up in her "pinup gal" dress and pose with her handiwork

Jody, sorry to hear that you moved away from TN!! What part? As soon as we can sell our house, we're moving to Eastern Tennessee. Not Knox county, but one of the surrounding counties, preferrably Union County.

I've used the Kustom Kolors stuff from Stuff-Mart, and have had no problems. Yes, I thin it before AB'ing it, but I use the famous (infamous?) "Norbie method," so I thin EVERYTHING. And I'm sure that some will disagree with me on this, and probably with good reason, but I thin it with my standard poison- cheap Autozone lacquer thinner. Someone may give good reasons not to do this, and they may be 100% correct, but I am also 100% correct when I say that it works fine for me. Here's some KK Pavo Purple, with HOK clear from Black Gold. It's over Plasticote gray primer. All shot through a 175 Badger, and all thinned with the same cheap lacquer thinner.