Chuck Most

One minor little gripe about the Hudson... you failed to foil the weatherstrip trim on the windsheild and back glass. Other than that, great job on both of them. Love how they routed the exhaust on the Chrysler stock cars! Wonder if the guy running hot behind him ever tried bump-drafting him until those pipes got pinched closed.

Wrong section... 1:1 reference pics are supposed to go down the page a little.

None that I have.

I'd push that front axle forward just a liiiiiiiiiitle bit more, but other than that, the stance looks good!

$16 grand. A few bucks more than I had in my pocket, I'm afraid.

Body still needs a little work here and there. The phrase 'Rotten Pumpkin' keeps popping into my head...

'73 Beater has begun- Chassis is mostly done- I rsied the rear suspension 2", and added some Blue Streak racing tires out back. Front tires are from the kit, but I used the steel wheels from an AMT '62 Pontiac in front, and a '66 Nova Pro Street out back. I also adapted the exhaust from the Nova for use on the Cougar. There's a '71 Monte Carlo in my area that's undergone some pretty brutally bad bodywork- basically the whole car is made of hammer dents and gray primer at this point. I replicated a similar look on the Coug's quarter by 'tapping' at it with a conical grinding bit in my Dremel, after removing the rear side marker lamp. I also 'rusted out' the rear wheel openings on both sides. I also separated the grille and bumper to make detail painting a bit easier. I also now have the choice to install the bumper a bit crooked it I want.

Yeah- I questioned the logic behind that too. Yes, it does have the wrong engine (SBC) but at least it's a 327, the one small block Chevy actually worth having.

I got an early '53 pre-production kit, which came with the '52 grille and open steel wheels, but the Tim Flock stock car and the new convertible are '52s and include the appropriate grille.

Single-part solvent putty is okay for filling in very minor blemishes, but for anything significant, two-part catalyst putty is the only way to go.

I did NOT forget about this one, I've just been thinking of what exactly I want to build for it- I love Cougs, and settling on which one to start off with was a bit of a challenge. I'll be starting off with a '73 kit, and it will be done as a beater. Think of a cross between a careworn '70's street machine and Uncle Buck's Grand Marquis and you'll have a general idea of what I'm going for.

I think I'm slowly homing in on a project for this... Revell's '48 Ford coupe with one of Ken Kitchen's Flathead sixes. We'll see how it pans out!

Saw this up at the St. Ignace show yesterday, on display with a certain adult beverage maker's advertising display.

Saw this up at the St. Ignace show yesterday, on display with a certain adult beverage maker's advertising display.

Yes he did, in 1968. For a stocker you'd pretty much be out of luck- the cowl and sides aren't even close to stock, though you might be able to use the roof. It's more of an artistic interpretation of a C-cab van than anything.

A Pontiac with some interesting firewall art- A crusty old 'Burban A couple of really cool 2-door late model Mopar conversions. For some reason GM Performance Parts had a pimped golf cart at its booth- This thing has Casey Littmann's name written all over it. A sweet little C-cab hot rod. And a link to the other 100 or so images... http://public.fotki.com/ChuckMost/11-reference-pictures/st-ignace-friday-2012/

Saw this during the pre-cruise hubbub at the St. Ignace show today. Easily my favorite car at the event.

Just picked up an original version of the kit today, and thought it might be fun to compare the differences. First off is the box- it is the narrow type used by MPC into the early '70's. The bottom panel was revised for the reissue- it now bears an M&H logo, where the original mentioned the slicks being hollow. Said slicks are the MPC hollow Goodyears with engraved lettering. The stock Model T radiator shell included with the 2008 reissue is not present in the original. Only a clear window is provided in the orignal kit. The reissued kit's front tires are molded much better. The original kit is molded in red plastic, and the headers are not short shot! The original's decal sheet consists only of the gold stripes and lettering. The red flasher is different- the reissue uses the flasher cone from AMT's big-rig kit clear red sprue. Instead of a small card with info on the 1:1 Fire Truck, the original includes a small print of a 1908 Packard Limo (?). Aside from the front tires, molding quality was about the same as on the reissue. But the only the red plastic parts are bagged, so there were some tire burns on the clear and chrome sprues.

Finally picked up a Revell '48 Ford coupe, as well as a Revell '49 Merc, MPC '73 Mercury Cougar, and an ORIGINAL MPC Chuck Miller Fire Truck show rod.

I don't get it either. A mold seam is a mold seam, no matter how prominent it is. You have to remove it either way. As long as there is no mold misalignment, does it really matter? For the record, I like prominent mold seams, makes them much easier to spot, and thus easy to remove BEFORE you hit the model with that final color or clear coat. I'll point out where they are when talking about a kit, but how faint or huge they are doesn't register on my personal 'quality meter'. Maybe it's the same reason 1:1 car reviewers point out things like wide and inconsistent body panel gaps. It supposedly sends a message about the car's overall quality, though I don't know anyone who ever turned down a car because there was a .005" variance in the hood-to-fender gaps.

That would be a tie between beaters (any vehicle, any vintage), and hot rods. Looking at my model collection, that's what the majority of them consist of.

Cool! The fact it's 1:32 makes it even better.

In 1:24/25 scale, you might just have to use metal or styrene rod- I've never been able to find anything that truly resembles ready rod in that scale. I've tried twisting two smaller wires into one so the resulting rod will have a bit of texture like ready rod has, but it isn't a 100% match. It looks okay if you don't move in too close.

I like it. No way should a targa top look so at home on this car, but somehow it works.

Really cool! Love the way those wheels look on it.