2002p51

The outer rim is .689" the inner rim is .621" But don't go to a lot of trouble 'cause I may just decide to use the kit wheels after all.

The '40 Ford convertible as you suggested! Was the AMT '32 ever issued in red plastic?

Here's what I have: Not sure what kit they are from but that's the bare red plastic color. I haven't painted them.

It's from one of the newer releases from Revell/Monogram, most likely the '40 Ford Standard kit.

Got the body on and the interior in. As usual for me the black isn't near as glossy as I had hoped. It's three coats, wet sanded between each coat and that's about as much time as I want to put into it so that's it. The wheels are a bigger issue. I have lots of '32 Ford style spoke wheels, all different sizes, all different colors. But the only ones that look right and come closest to fit the kit tires are one short. Yep, wouldn't it figure, I've only got three of them! I may just end up using the kit provided steel wheels and caps. This wasn't going to be 100% accurate replica anyway.

Oh yea, I know about them but I'm trying not to spend any extra money on this.

No, you're not being a putz and you're probably right. This transmission is an original 3-speed that would've been behind a flathead in a stock configuration. I made that transmission mount that way for two reasons. One, I like to use the KISS principle. Two, once my models are done they sit on a shelf and nobody ever picks them up and looks underneath. I rarely mess around with detailing the underside of my models or worrying about correct transmission mounts etc. I'm actually surprised that I bothered to make a drive shaft and I probably only did that because I knew I wanted to post that photo. See, I went the extra mile just for you guys!

Oh, good suggestion. I think I have one of those out in the "vault" somewhere. Thanks for the tip!

It's not that hard to do and it's a natural. The biggest problem I have with this car is the %$#%@ black paint job. I don't really like black cars much to begin with and I never can get it smooth and glossy enough. But I'll keep fighting.

I hinted at this car in another thread. Basically it will be, not an exact replica, but close to the famous Bud Bryan roadster that was built in a series of articles in Rod & Custom magazine during the early '70,s. The frame needed scratch built engine mounts. I modified a triple carb manifold to represent the Edelbrock "Super Dual" for two carbs. The quick change rear and Model A cross member came from spares and the longer drive shaft was made from .100 Evergreen rod. Anybody know what kit has a set of headers for a flathead? Maybe the '48 Ford woodie?

Those are from the old AMT Double Dragster kit.

Nice work.

I knew that!

Tim, I believe that photo was of the original car, I just did a quick grab of a Google photo to illustrate here. I have the entire series of Rod & Custom magazines that covered the construction of Bryan's roadster that I have been using for reference. The main reason I'm not going for an exact replica is there are a few parts of the car that, while possible to duplicate, would require more effort than I'm willing to put into a model car anymore. I guess I'm just getting lazy in my old age. The rear crossmember and quick change were sourced from my spares. The rear end is most likely from the old AMT double dragster kit. Not sure what the crossmember is from.

Ha ha, my original plan was to use a '32 grill. But after extensive digging through all my spares boxes I just didn't have one to use.

I agree with you on the engine, Dan. It's really nice and those are the best looking Strombergs I've seen from a plastic kit.

I agree about the frame. After I finished this and sat back to look at it, I immediately started to think about Z'ing the rear of the frame some more. Here's an in progress shot of the highboy version: I'm not trying to do an exact replica, but I'm going to get as close to this as I can:

Thanks for the reply Tim. I respect your opinion also for many of the same reasons and don't dispute some of your points.. I have, in fact, started on a highboy version and hope it comes out a little better than this one did. And I have converted the rear to accept a Model A spring and quick change rear! I've also modified the frame to accept a flathead engine. We'll see how that all works out.

I haven't done any modeling in a long time and I was excited to see this new hot rod kit hit the market and I eagerly read all of the reviews on here and other places and couldn't wait to get my hands on one. Now that I have built one I have to admit that I'm a little disappointed. It's nice and all and it certainly has some interesting parts, but there's just something about the finished model that I can't exactly put my finger on that doesn't look right. Maybe the front tires are too tall or the body isn't "deep" enough, I'm just not sure. I lowered the front end about 2 scale inches and I think if I hadn't that this thing would be way too high in front. I also found that if the engine sat down on the mounts like it was designed to, it would be sitting at a downward angle. And am I the only one who noticed that the model has an automatic transmission and, appropriately, no clutch pedal, but then the decal for the shift knob has a 4-speed pattern on it! Really Revell? The dash I used is from a Revell '32 Ford coupe. Paint is Testors Model Master Plum Crazy with Insignia Red on the interior and engine. Overall I don't hate it but, given the quality kits that Revell has been delivering lately, i.e. the '57 Fords, '62 Vette, etc., I just don't think this kit is up to their standards. As always, I welcome comments, criticism, flames, money, whatever you want to throw at me.

It's most of a Revell Chevy 409. The Offenhauser "heads" you mention are really valve covers.

I think the OP is asking about the front suspension. This looks like a torsion bar set up. Same as that on the Revell funny cars of the seventies.

Here's everything you need to know: http://www.evergreenscalemodels.com/index.htm

Me too.

No it's a full detail kit. There were, however, some engine parts missing when I started back on this model last week. Not sure what why. So the hood is glued shut.

Yes, I gave it a light sanding overall with some 3200 grit.