sjordan2

Modified: Custom: (PS: The custom job is not makeup. It's for real after many surgeries.)

Poll: Modified? Scratchbuilt? Kitbashed? Custom?

I agree with Dave. From what I've seen, the best use of drybrushing on models appears to be when making faux finishes with various colors/hues, such as wood grain. But it generally looks pretty hokey to me if it isn't finessed well and done with smooth strokes and blending for a softer look. That can generally be improved with adding a tiny bit of thinner or wash and applying on a soft touch of rag.

I agree. Beautiful kids. Made my day.

Here's a spoon test from another forum seeking to replicate Petty blue, but also seems similar to my search for a certain Bugatti blue and possibly the Aston. From left to right, Tamiya TS-23; Tamiya TS-10 and Testors 1208. Not shown as a potential choice: Model Master big bad blue. By the way, the site where I found this has a nice thread with lots of spoon tests: http://www.randyayersmodeling.com/modelingforum/viewtopic.php?p=475905&sid=67ceb614ecd0c853fce94608db180319

Looks like a classic Bugatti blue, of which there have been several shades.

The interior is excellent. And the body looks just as rippled as the original's bad fiberglass finish.

Just remember the OP is in Scotland and doesn't have access to a lot of products mentioned here. I would suppose that Castrol brake fluid would be readily available there, however.

A lot of the modelers on this forum have some great DIY ways of making valve stems, but you can also buy them inexpensively at places like this: http://www.rbmotion.com/valvestems.html

Man, you nailed the line on the rear.

The biggest thing I can see is that, after logging in and I get the contents of just one specific album, I have to make one extra step to go to "My Home" to access my various different albums. It's pretty much the same after that. One click on the IMG field of an uploaded image and it's automatically copied. I have no idea why they needed to change something that was working fine. Maybe there are other upgrades that aren't visible to the user.

All shall be revealed here... http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=12248

Dang!! Superb!!! But why all that for a Seat?? He's making ten of them, so I suppose there may be a market for them in Europe.

Many thanks, everyone. This has been tremendously informative, and I've learned things I haven't found elsewhere.

As a Mac user, I have been extremely pleased with the stability of Firefox (especially since IE stopped supporting Mac with updates long ago).

One thing I've noticed over the years is that automotive subjects depicted in paintings or posters or sculpture or other media are seldom received as "art"; they seem to be regarded as illustrations or commercial graphics or kitsch. I disagree for many reasons, but won't get into the subject of "what is art?" I just think that automotive design fits right in there with all the other art forms, good or bad.

Hey, Daniel, I was trying to track you down because nobody knows more about diecast conversions that you do. Do you agree with the comments above?

Hey, thanks, Andy. Yeah, I'm building a specific car that Bburago based their model on, which is 1934 chassis #59124. This was owned by Rodney Clarke and later F. R. Ludington from the 40s through the 60s. It started life as a GP racer and has been re-done that way today, but during their ownership it was a road-going car, with fenders and headlights. Bburago took a different GP car and added fenders and headlights to come up with this model. Interesting to note that although the packaging says it's 1:18, people at bugattibuilder.com and my own comparative measurements against 1:1 blueprints show that it's a tiny bit larger than 1:16. I've gathered a ton of info on this car and the T59s in general, including an exploded engine diagram, etc (if I can help you with T59 info, let me know). Man, if I'd known what I was getting into, I don't know if I would have started. I have to take the fenders and headlights from a built-up version, and nothing on the kit version (which is Grand Prix without fenders) fits properly. Anyway, I'm determined to make it much more accurate, and that means adding the signature rivets that hold the "safety wires" that keep the aluminum body panels from falling off. Plus a zillion more details that are unique to this car. I fell in love with this car when I saw it decades ago in a book called "The Great Cars" by Ralph Stein, and I found the Bburago diecast about 15 years ago. My commitment to this is such that I found a source for the (very expensive) piano wire wheels for this car in Italy and am anxiously awaiting delivery.

I'm working on my first conversion of a diecast model, and I would like advice and comments on the observations below for doing this. This is in reference to a 1/16 Bburago Bugatti Type 59, which has a diecast body and everything else is plastic parts. I will need to find a machinist who can drill different-size holes in the body (some very tiny to accept straight pins), and a bit of grinding away of cast features, since I do not have and cannot afford the machine tools. • I'm told that the best paint stripper for the original is aircraft stripper. • The best adhesive for gluing metal-to-metal and plastic to metal is JB Weld. • Filling in existing holes of different sizes can be done with Evercoat. (But what about Bondo 2-part?) • I would assume that Duplicolor sandable primer and Duplicolor paint would be the best way to go. Are these good ideas? Or do you have better suggestions?

Well, it's hard to beat Gerald Wingrove but this guy is in the same league. http://www.drmischko.com/

He does amazing work. I want all of them. (Except I'm not sure about the Fangio newspaper stand.) Kind of reminds me of some of Peter Lombardo's creations.

The buck looks awesome. Knowing your quality, I assume there's going to be a lot more work to get the panel lines on doors, hood, trunk smoother.

Killer all around, though I'd like to see some interior shots. What paint did you use?

Just received the October issue (in perfect archival condition) and it's a good one. I appreciate more and more the section on Common Items, Uncommon Uses, which illustrates photographically many of the tips that one only hears about in written descriptions. Even though many of the car subjects profiled here, such as the Cherokee Chief vintage NASCAR racer, are not of interest to me, the build journals of these cars are very valuable, and likewise the article on building a speedboat. Note to Wayne Moyer about his review of the jaw-dropping 1:18 Mercedes 300 SLR Uhlenhaut coupe by CMC... Regarding your comment in the "BUT" part ("...Should the interior be blue?"), the answer is "not necessarily." Ten of the originals were built with different-color interiors, such as the 1:1 below.

Are the headlights really supposed to have transparent covers like the European Daytonas? I thought they were pop-up on the Miami Vice kit car (and I believe Ferrari eventually had to export pop-up light versions to the States to meet federal requirements).