Chillyb1

One thing you didn't mention and that probably goes without saying is this: Don't Cheat! One of my models took second place in its class at a GSL contest but I wasn't there and I didn't enter it in the competition. I was and remain flattered; however, it is a reprehensible act to present someone else's build as one's own work.

My best advice is to use the self-adhesive Bare Metal Foil brand and skip trying to master the application of foil with whatever other adhesive. But if you must, I'd recommend Alene's spray adhesive, which is widely available at hobby, craft, and general big-box stores near everybody.

I'm glad to see you are keeping up with the build. I'm sure there are quite a few of us checking up on your progress. The engine is looking very nice indeed.

I'll be back to take a closer look at this one. It is a really exciting project of a very unusual subject and an unusual source for a model.

Thanks. It looks great and now I know how to do it myself!

You've got to share your paint technique for the interior wood trim. It looks spectacularly accurate.

I'm pleased to see this thread revived after so many years. It is a really cool version of the F40 and I'm still very happy with the result it got with this build. Some of my pictures look really good, too!

You've even got the "28 IF" license plate. Very cool project.

I'm going to want a closet-ful of these things.

Are you referring to their "polished aluminum"? If so, yes. And I find that it is even easier than their chrome to get the desired result. That is, it is even more idiot-proof than chrome.

Every time you post one of these things I say to myself, "Man, I really got to get started on some of my military kits." And this time I'm really going to do so. I promise.

How is it that so many of us missed this? It really is breathtakingly awesome. As is Bruce's build. I'm excited and pleased that the Moebius kit has inspired so much creativity among us modelers. I'm tempted to get one myself now.

I have not found this to be the case; however, it is probably good to be aware of this potential problem.

Most Dupli-Color paints go on flat and require some gloss clear. I never bother with sanding the color coat with Dupli-Color because the clear always seems to bring out a beautiful and uniform finish. The Dupli-Color clear should do the job but I have no experience with it so no advice to give; same with Pledge with Future Shine. I do have lots of experience using Rust-Oleum lacquer clear over Dupli-Color and highly recommend it if easily available. Most modelers use the BMF after clear. As far as detail painting goes, you'll have to decide whether you want the details to have the same gloss finish as the body color. And, finally, welcome to the wonderful world of scale automobile modeling: the coolest by far segment of the scale-modeling community! These models are painted with Dupli-Color paints and cleared with Rust-Oleum:

Big Tall Dad is usually a great source for helpful hints and advice but this time I'm going to have to disagree strongly with a couple things in his post. NEVER, EVER shake recently decanted paint in a jar. Never. Ever. And I can't see any good reason ever to empty the whole can of spray paint in one go. I only ever decant the amount of paint I think I'll need for the immediate future. I use 3/4 ounce paint jars and never come close to filling one. I use Tamiya TS series paints almost exclusively. My process is to attach a short piece of a drinking straw over the nozzle, affixed with poster putty (roll some putty into a small "worm" and wrap that around one end of the straw and push it into place over the nozzle; check to make sure it is securely attached), then inserted into the jar while spraying the amount of paint I want. You can always add more later if and as needed. I leave it in the jar with the lid not quite tight. If I want to use it right away, then I use a stirrer to release the propellant gas still in the paint by gently inserting it and then repeating that until the paint no longer reacts violently to the stirrer.

I'm really pleased to see this done. I have an interest in getting the model but I'm in no real hurry to do so. And so far your build is really doing it justice. But I don't want this build to interfere with your work on the newly arrived Ebbro DS!

The headliner. I can't tell what the smaller ones are. Maybe other interior bits?

Next time I'm in Quincy, Mark, I'll take that bottle off your hands. I love the stuff and I'm just upriver in Hamilton. Michael, there are lot of variables in play when using Alclad chrome and there are a lot of modelers who will provide you with absolutes that they claim must obtain or the result will be ruined; however, those absolutes may not work for you. In other words, you'll have to play around some to find the right combination to get results you like. That said, there isn't any real trick to using Alclad chrome or polished aluminum. I find that the polished aluminum, which also requires (or really likes) a black basecoat, is more foolproof than the chrome and might give you the finish you are looking for. The chrome paint works, as you mention above, by creating the illusion of a plated surface using the black base and whatever magic substances are in the little bottle from Alclad. And this works best on very smooth surfaces. Alclad's own black base, which you said you are using, is an excellent base coat but I've had just as good results using Tamiya's TS-14 gloss black base. Another thing I and some other modelers do is to spray the chrome shortly after painting the black base, contrary to the Alclad instructions. I never wait more than an hour. Also as already mentioned, spraying at very low pressure is probably a better approach than more pressure. Shooting at an angle, as Cameron said, is a good idea, too. But I cannot see myself EVER using "15-20 passes" of chrome. Probably no more than three or four, really. Another thing you'll have to do on your own is inspect your results in different lighting conditions. Sometimes when I'm painting with Alclad chrome I find that my parts look perfect until I look at them in bright daylight. In any case, keep at it and you'll get the hang of it. It is not a difficult thing to accomplish.

This is a spectacularly elaborate kit and it builds into a phenomenal model; However, of all of those produced by Heller only 31% have ever been started and only 2% of those have been completed*. So let's see some follow through. * Statistics presented may have been invented by the author.

Yes. And none of it is good. Once upon a time I had a bunch of both versions but then got rid of them because they are far too frustrating for this modeler.

Please post pictures as soon as the kit arrives.

Are you using an airbrush? If not, then you are courting disaster. Anyway, first things first: When removing the window masks try not to touch the adhesive surface any more than is necessary for handling. Visualize where the mask is supposed to go and try to get it started correctly the first time around because even though you can remove the thing and start again several times, it is better to get it right on the first go. So, get it lined up and press it firmly against the window, slowly moving from one side (left or right) to the other or from the center out to the edges. If you've got it applied the way you think it should be, then use something firm yet flexible but not pointed to burnish it to the window surface, especially around the edges. I use a guitar pick for this job (the back edge of a standard teardrop shaped pick). It should go without saying that you should then use whatever is your preferred masking tape to cover the other side of the window. At this point I spray the edges with clear (usually semigloss or flat) to seal things up so the black doesn't seep under the tape. Then spray away with the black of your choice (or some other color if you have to be difficult about this!). The most difficult stage comes next: removal of the mask! Don't use a hobby knife blade for this. I usually put a small piece of Tamiya masking tape in the center of the window to be masked so I can more easily remove the mask after painting by poking a little dental-type pick under the mask where that little piece of tape is and lifting the mask. This procedure reduces the chance of scratching the glass when removing the mask. Finally, when this is all done, stand back and admire the thoroughly satisfying and professional looking results of a job successfully completed due to adequate preparation and meticulous execution.

Another super cool fantasy model from Tiking! Now tell us more about both your homebuilt light box and you experience with InfranView. I'm frustrated with my photography and like very much your results.

All right, then, I guess it falls to me to be the voice of unreason: Just smash the thing and start with a different project. There is no inherent virtue in perseverance and sometimes it leads to folly.

I'm stealing that seat foam idea right now. That is a beautiful method you came up with. Love that ingenuity.