Chillyb1

I am very happy to see this build. I recently got the Repsol version of Tamiya's 962C with the photoetch set and have been wanting to see a comparison with the 956 kits. Though you had to sand down the clear parts, at least they aren't molded directly into the body as they are on the 962C! I had to sand down the injector marks from the inside and that was no fun at all. I was just about to open up those side grilles with my Dremel when I saw what happened to yours, so maybe I'll rethink that step. Not to hijack the thread, but does anybody know why the bodies are so different in Tamiya's 956 and 962 kits?

Is this verifiable fact? I've been experimenting with using these also both as washes and as panel-line accents. As mentioned above, many different effects can be created depending on the consistency (thinness) of the wash and the method of application. It took me a lot of trial and error just to figure out that thinner if probably better than thicker; that is, just when you think your mixture is thin enough, it probably still needs a little more thinner. As to application, I have been using an eye-drop bottle with a CA glue applicator tip attached (my own design, patent pending!!) and also trying to figure out how to best use a syringe (my niece is diabetic and has donated several syringes to the modeling cause) mainly in highlighting panel lines. The labwork continues.

Yes. Can't say I've ever really followed it or seen much except highlights of both recent and historic races, but I love it. Also taken to building some of Tamiya's outstanding rally car kits. We don't see nearly enough of them here.

I got this set even cheaper at Hobby Lobby: I chose the earth tone set because it seemed to have more colors appropriate for creating weathering effects. Lots of dust, dirt, mud, and rust possibilities available that primary color sets don't have. But that is an individual modeler's choice to make. My experience using pastels is limited, but I think the most important thing to remember is that the stuff has to be rubbed in pretty thoroughly before it will adhere. It doesn't like gloss surfaces at all, which isn't too much of a problem because we really don't do much weathering on nice shiny cars. Other modelers have complained that pastels only create a dust that isn't realistic and that doesn't stay in place. But Dave and Marcos have really pointed out how to use these things. Once pastels are applied to flat or semi-gloss surfaces and rubbed into place, they don't come off. And, as those guys have shown, pastels can be used both to create weathering effects and to enhance the depth of detail anywhere on a model that details get lost without some sort of contrast.

Welcome to the Model Cars Magazine Forum. It will be a treat to see your builds. There aren't nearly enough Can Am and/or Le Mans racers here; I can't get enough of them, even though I don't build them myself.

Strada Sports. Kevin has good prices on everything he sells and you can get free shipping if you order at least $25 worth of stuff, which is pretty easy to do.

So, I'm visiting family in Portland, Oregon, and I recalled that fellow member Treehugger Dave hails from here. I shot him an email and he agreed to meet with me and to show me his sanctum sanctorum, where he makes his modeling magic happen. What a fantastic time I had shooting the modeling breeze with Dave as he showed me his stash, his current ongoing builds (especially loved the Auburn cabin speedster), a bunch of completed builds, and other modeling related stuff. Just wanted to let everybody know about the opportunities we have to develop our sense of community among our fellow modelers. Some of us have clubs, but many of us work in relative isolation and only make connections through the Interweb-connected omnibox. Anyway, great to have met you, Dave, and I encourage my fellow scale-auto modelers to foster personal connections when the chance arises.

What your kits are worth to you is an entirely separate matter from what your kits are worth to someone else. Monetized value is only theoretical until the exact moment of exchange, when some form of currency is given for goods or services. I don't think the prices you are thinking about are out of line for the kind of quality you produce. However, you'll have to find customers who also think that way and who have the money in hand to fork over for your kits. I avoid the problem of having to sell kits, either to make room or to make money, by severely limiting the number of kits I keep on hand to around 20-25. And I always buy them as bargains; in the event that I do need or want to sell a kit I can all but guarantee that it won't sell for less than I paid. But, as Chris Coller pointed out in his post, it is very easy to "lose" money/value when selling built or, in your case, painted models. I've watched auctions of Chris's work and been disappointed to see low-ball bids and not much action. I've experienced the same thing. I sell everything I build on eBay just to help pay for kits and supplies; I'd like to see my models go for big dollar amounts, but wishing doesn't make it so. Partly it is the subject matter, partly it is timing. If nobody is watching your auctions who has a real interest in that particular work, you aren't going to get what you hope for monetarily. The most I've ever gotten is about $100. Which brings me to the other part of your topic. That particular model was purchased and then entered in at least two competitions as the original work of the buyer!! And in one competition it took second place. Hooray for me, indirectly. Anyway, I brought this to the attention of the competition's grandees and, eventually, I was awarded the prize/plaque/trophy. This aspect is not in your control. If someone dishonestly presents your work as his or her own, you can't do anything about it unless, of course, the dishonest practice is found out. I don't know of any venue for you to try to sell your work for the prices you are asking. If you start at those prices on eBay, those painted kits are going to sit around for a loooong time. Brian Nehring made something of a specialty out of selling bodies he painted with spectacular flame jobs, and they sold for some big money (I don't know if he still does this). But he was also able to capitalize on his name and reputation. I admire your work, but do buyers know of your high quality paint jobs? I wish you the best of luck.

Lacquer over enamel? Can't see a problem with that... if you are going for the crinkly, wrinkled look.

Thanks, Gerry. I'm all the way on the other side of the state and about half way down. Too far to go for this. I do sometimes visit friends in Evanston and could maybe work in a trip when one of the swaps is going on. We'll see. Thanks again for the suggestion.

Thanks, Mike. I'm working on identifying the cars and inventorying what's in the box. Checking eBay auctions, reading about HO trains on various websites, just gauging (bad pun sort of intended) interest in such things. I don't anything about the hobby and am hoping someone here is an HO enthusiast. I won't get around to dealing with this until next month but any and all input is appreciated. I'll check to see if there is anything from the Milwaukee RR.

As the title indicates, I'm looking for someone who knows anything about HO scale train stuff. I'm helping my parents get rid of several decades's worth of accumulated detritus the we four children amassed. My brother's trains and track are from the mid to late 1970s and I'd like to get rid of them, but need some advice before I do. I don't know anything about trains and don't really know what kind of information is pertinent to the potential buyer. Any help? Thanks in advance.

That is a really, really cool truck. I love this kind of modeling subject and wish there were more of this sort of thing. Now I want to see more pictures.

That is excellent work, Marcos. The Vega is way too rare a subject, in my opinion. I like them and I'd like to see more of them. Your paint and detail work are, of course, outstanding. A beauty to behold. The wheels and the stance are not to my taste, but that's a personal matter. Awesome work.

And after you follow Gary's advice, go to the hobby shop and get some Tamiya spray paints. You'll be glad you did.

I got these two beauties from Dean's Hobby Stop: Shipped to my door for a whopping $47! Thanks, Dean!

Not to take this too far off topic (and maybe it's run its course already), but is there a chance someone could post pictures of models painted and cleared with this Createx stuff? I, for one, would love to see the results.

Okay, I'll say you are wrong. I use lacquer thinner with lacquers and enamels (or I used to before I gave up on using enamels altogether) and Tamiya's thinner with their acrylics. I know other modelers have their own preferences. I'm sure you can use water or alcohol when shooting acrylics, but you'll maybe have to experiment to see what you like best.

Mitch, calm down. It is okay to get frustrated and even to throw models away! I did that recently with a stupid Heller Citroen 2CV when I decided it wasn't worth the trouble. First thing you should do is look around in this forum; there is an astonishing wealth of information of just the sort you seek. And then you need to practice, practice, practice, whether or not you are trying to get to Carnegie Hall. A couple of immediate suggestions: use lacquer paints and try Tamiya. As many will tell you, any type of paint (lacquer, enamel, acrylic) in any conveyance (can or airbrush) can be used and can yield excellent results. However, for a discouraged beginner, shooting a body with Tamiya spray paint from a can should give you a great boost of confidence. And don't, for Pete's sake, try to do a gloss black body for your first paint job! If there is a more difficult color to get a great finish from I've never seen it. Even white is easier than black. Anyway, you need patience and can't expect outstanding build quality on your first try. Get that Mustang out of the trash and strip the paint (search for the many threads that discuss that topic), then try to practice painting it. Take your time and enjoy the hobby.

Both of those are really cool cars. How are those Hasegawa rally car kits compared with the Tamiya ones?

Sorry, Dave, but "Black Is Black" was by Los Bravos while "Paint It, Black" was by the Stones. Now back to the paint discussion....

Thanks for the kind words. I really like this kit and weathering is one of my favorite aspects of modeling. I don't have a lot of experience at it but enjoy the experimentation.

No, because I regularly use both the buffing and the nonbuffing, and sometimes I don't bother to buff the stuff that is supposed to be buffed yet it still never comes off on my fingers when handling. That's why this sort of question is so perplexing to me. I've seen other modelers say the same thing you have and I wonder if I've just been really lucky. Did you prime the surface first?

I have found the metalizers to dry to the touch almost instantly and have never had this problem with any of the variants, at least when they are shot from an airbrush. Are you using the spray cans? Anyway, Testors's metalizer sealer changes the tone of the metalizers but doesn't seem to make it glossy or flat judging from the few times I've actually used it. Other clears can be used over metalizers but the tone (gloss, semi-gloss, or flat) will give a different effect; you'd have to experiment to get results you want. Also, the Testors brand sealer goes on in incredibly thin coats that are almost imperceptible, whereas other clears might end up going on thicker than you want. Hope that was somewhat helpful.

Well, I guess it is time to call this one finished. The kit is Tamiya and the paint is TS-26 Pure White with some TS-13 clear. I used the Scale Motorsport photoetch set and some carbon fiber decals also from SMS. There's some cigarette foil here and there for heat shield material. I made the antennas from guitar string and some 32 gauge wire (for the spring base) and added valve stems to the wheels. Weathering is mostly Tamiya acrylics in a variety of dirt and mud colors airbrushed with a fan blowing to help carry the paint in a wind-tunnel sort of way. I made some caked-on mud in the wheel wells using Tamiya basic putty that I roughed up with a wire brush, painted with very thin mud colored paint, then airbrushed. That might be all. I feel it is necessary to announce that I'm not here trying to replicate this particular vehicle in any conditions under which it may have raced or even existed, nor am I attempting to duplicate precisely the actual car in miniature. There are those on some modeling forums who simply cannot comprehend the we modelers are allowed to express some artistic license when building. That said, my goal is to present something that is a fairly realistic scale model and that is well-executed from the perspective of deploying the full range of modelers' skills. But as a sop to the rigid purists I offer the following: I know that this particular race was mostly in dry weather on asphalt; however, I have seen some footage that shows at least one stage of the race was in wet and muddy conditions. So let us say this is the car after that particular stage, okay? Any and all comments, suggestions, criticisms, and purchase offers welcomed. More can be seen here: http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v230/Chi...t%20206%201999/