Mark Brown

I've been using this technique instead of typical filler for some time. I generally use stretched sprue and Ambroid and I've found few situations where this wouldn't work. I just put pieces of the stretched sprue into the area to be filled and dab it with Ambroid until it softens enough for me to work it with a toothpick. Once it gasses out and hardens, it sands exactly like the surrounding plastic and it won't be affected if you have to strip paint from the part(s), as typically happens with most fillers.

And kudos for that! It's easy to buy something, and I do when I can't make it, but it sure doesn't give you the satisfaction that making it from scratch does. I've made a couple of brackets like you're considering, but I've found that metal is a little better medium. You can use a piece of beer/soda can or pick up some thin sheet aluminum at the hobby store. I like to add the holes and/or slots before cutting it to shape, so I rough the piece into a triangular-ish shape first. For the slot, you can drill adjacent tiny holes and then carefully connect them with the point of your hobby knife. Cut a tiny strip of sandpaper to fit in the slot and finish it. Once you get your holes/slots made, then carefully sand and file the piece to its final form. This is where working with metal is better, IMO - it won't snap as easily when you're trying to form it. Another alternative is to us flattened wire - you can flatten copper wire with pliers or in a vise, bend it to shape, and then make your holes and slots in it. It's very malleable and won't break while you're working with it.

No, I took a Ford SVO sticker and used a hobby knife to cut out the "Ford" script, and then applied it as a mask to the brake light. With the script masked, I simply painted the rest of the light housing black and removed the mask. Got quite a few comments at the track - I'm not sure if Chris kept the light in the car after he bought it. But he should have!

Speaking of third brakelights, check out how I put my modeling skills to work on my coupe.

I tried one of those magnifier lamps for about ten minutes - didn't work for me at all. It was mostly in the way. However, I couldn't work without magnification and highly recommend MagEyes, which you can get at Hobby Lobby. They also sell different lenses (higher magnification) and I would be lost without my MagEyes with the 7x lens. Without question, my most indispensible tool. http://www.mageyes.com/Hobby.htm

Yeah, if you're going to strip paint over bodywork, it almost has to be a last resort, since you stand a pretty good chance of losing your filler. One reason I like to use plastic to fill whenever I can. Partially for that reason, I've learned to handle most filler tasks using Ambroid and scrap plastic or stretched sprue.

I'm with you, Charlie - Castrol Super Clean has rarely let me down, and in my experience, if CSC doesn't get it, nothing will. Automotive paint (Duplicolor) is nearly impossible to remove, and black/flat black is very tough. Typical modeling spray paint generally comes off in sheets, which can be pretty neat to see. CSC is also my favorite for chrome removal. One thing I've noticed about CSC is that it does lose its ability over time, and getting water in it - even small amounts - can compromise its ability as well. So I replace the CSC in my stripping container (plastic shoebox) periodically, when I notice that it's taking longer than usual or not completely doing the job.

That's a killer idea, Tom! The toolboxes have lots of great drawer space, they're stout enough to easily hold up all the workbench stuff,, and they come with the cool automotive vibe. Outstanding. Where'd you get the toolboxes and how cheap were they? I think you've given me the idea I need to finally put to use the 4' x 7' solid door I've been saving for a new bench.

I almost always use a similar method to what Treehugger Dave described, but I drill very tiny holes and use pins to hold the part. I'll often put the hold where a mounting pin was and let the pin for holding the part double as an attachment pin after the part is painted. I get packages of tiny brass pins at the crafts store and I've found a million uses for them, including holding and pinning parts.

And one last shot (I promise!) of the actual work area.

Thanks, Drew! Here's a few more shots of the lair that I just took this afternoon. Some kits and the bins where larger spare parts live.... A closer shot of the bins - bodies, seats, interior, chassis, tires, etc - most everything but engine stuff and wheels stays here Ongoing projects - way too many of them Tools and more spare parts..... Parts and stuff...... I never really cared for the round organizers so I made this square one from desktop pencil holders and a lazy susan (the flat deal that lets it spin around, though I almost never rotate it). It's probably the most useful desktop item I've come up with - I use it constantly.

I've probably posted this before on another thread, but I thought it might be relevant. I've used many different setups over the years, but I haven't found anything I like better than a good old office desk. The combination of large work surface and good drawer arrangement has worked well for me, though I've outgrown this one and am looking at alternatives. I made the paint and tool shelf part from various scraps of wood and like the desk itself, it's been through several upgrades. Aside from having gotten a bit cramped over the years, it's a very friendly place to work, and to me, that's the most important thing. My workspace has to be inviting and fit like a comfortable shoe, and this one does. The main source of light is a pair of 48" flourescent tubes mounted overhead (behind the stained wood you see at the top of the photo). The light "enclosure" also serves as a shelf for models above. By the way, it's almost never this organized or tidy.....

Since my LHS was out of it, I just ordered it from Amazon. Had it in my greasy paws in three days. Here's a link: http://tinyurl.com/2g7smk5

I'm glad I'm not the only one! I bought a new Paasche and a compressor over ten years ago and I think I've used it exactly one time. About that time I discovered Tamiya and automotive rattlecan paint and my painting blues went away.

I've had great luck with the rattlecan version, too. I haven't use Alclad but I've seen it and I have to say that I think the Spaz stuff is even a bit more reflective - looks exactly to my eyes like what chrome plating should look like, as opposed to kit chrome, which looks exactly like .... plated plastic. You might try your LHS for it - I know at least one Hobbytown in Austin carries it in the R/C section.

I'd definitely order at least a half dozen pairs of accurate DRs. Like Jeff, most of my current projects are 10.5 or DR cars - more would be DR cars if the tires were available. I've been hoarding a few sets of the old Satco tires that are kinda/sorta similar to drag radials, but they're only close. I agree with Dave, but not only is there a big hole in the market for these tires, but there are big holes for almost all modern doorslammer racecar parts. The closest thing to a modern door car is probably the 15-year old Revell pro stock kits. That's a shame because 10.5/drag radial racing is incredibly exciting to watch, not to mention participate. As they say, RTCTTFMF!

Great news, Richard - you can count on my business!

I might have thought that word-of-mouth reports would have caused him to improve his extremely negligent "service", but my experience was well over ten years ago and it would appear that nothing has changed.

Same experience here - took over nine months and too many emails to count to get two pairs of tires. I swore I'd never fall into that trap again, and I haven't. I have bought some Perry's stuff since then but only through other vendors. As mentioned above, it's a real shame because Randy makes some of the nicer resin on the market. There used to be a couple guys who sold his stuff - one fellow in Houston with whom I've lost contact, and Bud Lefevre was a vendor of Perry's stuff before his untimely demise (RIP, Bud).

The straight axle gasser look doesn't translate to many modern cars, but I sure think it works great with this Malibu. This would be a cool model project if someone had a Perry's 'Bu body around.....are those still available?

I always though it was to compete with the infamous Camaro Cobra!

Most square (rectangular) tube chassis are 3" x 4". Your 2mm is pretty close to two inches, so it's going to be too narrow, while 4mm will be too wide by the same amount. If you can find 3mm, that should be fine. Or double up the 2mm and sand it to reduce the width. From my math, 3mm by 4mm should be pretty close to what you usually find in the real world. 2mm = .0787" For 1:25, multiply .0787 x 25 = 1.9675"

Has anyone done a tube K-member/tube A-arms (UPR style) yet? How about aftermarket rear control arms or a coilover conversion? I've played around with a K-member for the AMT '87 but haven't gotten too far. Hadn't decided what to use for A-arms - make them or swipe them from something else.

What I'm looking at is how the entire nose droops toward the front of the car - like it was left in the sun or something. Probably removed from the mold before it was cured. Compare it with this profile shot of my old coupe (pre-paint) and you can see how the front end of the resin version sags toward the front.

Does yours have a really droopy nose? Here's the one I got a few years back - still trying to decide if it's salvageable or not. The nose is a real mess. I got this from a third party and I believe it was a "blem" - everything I ever got from Wendell back ten years or so ago was the highest quality. I'm trying to get around to bashing this body with the '93 Cobra to see if I can make a coupe out of it. I'm thinking I can swap the '93 nose on, and use the valance from the resin one on that nose. How the industry has managed to not make a Fox coupe after all these years is certainly a mystery to me.