Bruno

Right there;

Working on the Cuda right now, and I just noticed that there's a hole on top of the right inner fender, and nothing goes there... Too late for mine, but for those who will be building the cuda, that hole should be filled.

I am building the 'Cuda right now, and the only things I don't like so far is the wheel opening lips and the engine that is too far away from the firewall, the engine is installed in the engine bay and I can see the entire bellhousing. You can see what I mean just by looking at the engine pictures on the box.

Regular 1/4 car pinstripes cut to desired width using a ruler and an xacto

MPC kit, added wires and hoses, chrome stripped and then painted with alclad chrome and polished aluminum, kit decals + added gold pinstripes, paint is automotive tricoat waterborne basecoat and 2 part urethane clear

Here; http://www.hostingpics.net/album/daytonacs88-174027.html On our way to New England Dragway, I found out I forgot my camera so those pics were taken by my friend...

Those pics of Bruce Larson's funny car were taken at the inaugural NHRA Hot Rod Reunion in Epping, NH last september, I was there and saw that run It was a very cool event with lots of nostagia Funny Cars, Front engine Dragsters, Gassers, Fuel Altereds, Super Stocks, etc... Here's a few pictures we took there; I will be there next september for sure

I've been having the same problem using the Slixx Bruce Allen Outlaw pro stock decals, I did contact Slixx about those decals breaking apart and Becky sent me another decal sheet along with a bottle of liquid decal film (Slixx do have excellent customer service!). I tried it, it did help some, but gotta be really careful cause they were still breaking. A friend of mine had the same problem with another Slixx decal sheet... I tried spraying clear on them, they were still breaking apart... Now I am not bashing on Slixx here, I was just wondering if someone here found a better way to fix those problematic decal sheets?

I like AMC's! I built a Jo-Han '69 AMX a few years ago; And I got a Jo-Han '69 Rambler kit and an AMT '74 Javelin kit in the stash, both waiting to be built

I wonder what happened to the Reher-Morrison pro stock Camaro they announced for 2013?

Nothing changed around here; Speed is still there, I'm watching Pass Time right now...

No, as others already said in this thread, you will actually spend less money for a better quality clear, true urethane clear was never meant to be used by hobbyists, but then again, I don't know about you, but me, I do use a lot of things that was not meant to be used by hobbyists on my builds... And if done right, it will not be out of scale. Gloss finish that is rarely seen in the 1:1 world? Just go out and look at all the cars around; 98% of those cars have urethane clear on them.

Nice! Do you have a pic showing the entire car? I'd like to see that

Of course, to each his own, and of course you can do a job as nice as urethane clear using rattlecan or other clears, but it's easier to do with urethane clear, once you have learned how to work with it. And about the health issues, I'm an auto body tech for over 20 years now, and I have been working with urethane clears for most of those 20+ years, of course we have a good paint booth and respirators at work, but we are painting 1:1 cars, definitely not comparable as to the quantity of fumes that go up in the air and ventilation/equipment needed for spraying 1/24 -1/25 model cars... I would not use this clear, or spray any other clear / paint without wearing a good respirator anyway, and wouldn't spray any paint inside the house. I have a small 12X24 garage here at home, and when spray painting, I do it in the garage, always. When spraying urethane clear, I leave the fan on when finished spraying and go back to the garage an hour later to turn the fan off. That being said, what's important is to have fun, and just use the materials and techniques we like and works best for us. What works great for some won't for others...

Exactly. I actually think urethane clear is easier to work with than hobby clears. I only spray one coat of urethane clear on my models, and there's not much polishing required, just remove the few dust spots and it's done. Plus, once the urethane clear is dried/hardened, it's much more forgiving during assembly than other paint/clears; better resistance to scratches and if there's a glue or paint spot on it, you can easily wipe it away with varsol or paint thinner and it won't attack the clear. As for the syrup finish, it all depends on wich clear you use, how you mix it, how you spray it on and how many coats you put on. I always use the cheap 4:1 automotive clear. There's really no need to use a high end expensive urethane clear on a model, those expensive high end clears are heavier and have better uv protection, better resistance to stone chips and scratches, wich is good for 1:1 cars, but overkill for models, plus they are harder to polish than the cheap clears.

Yes, the first to officially run 200mph, but there's a controversy concernig this... Chris Karamesines apparently did run a 200mph before

AMT kit, added piecrust slicks from AMT parts pack, wired and plumbed

I don't live in that area, but I do live in Quebec. Closest ones I know of would be; JacHobby in Laval http://jachobby.com/ Hobby Junction in Montreal (Dorval) Adresse : 1761 Avenue Cardinal, Dorval, QC H9P 2W4 Téléphone :(514) 631-3504 Udisco in Montreal https://www.udisco.com/hobbies/welcome.aspx

You also have to consider that these are old cars that had a few paintjobs done over the years = bodywork = bondo + sheetmetal replacement, etc...

Now that's good news Alan!

Alan, let me know when they will be available

I think it would be nice to have some letters & numbers decal sheets to put on the windows of racecars (drag cars) like competition numbers, class designations, driver name.... Just some random letters & numbers so we can write what we want Those could be in white, which is the most common, but also there could be other colors and different fonts offered I would be interested in buying some sheets, wonder if others would be interested in buying some too...

Thanks everyone Vancouver, from what I heard...

Here's my latest build, it's a replica of a '70 Challenger R/T I saw on a calendar, a 1 of 1 car, DY3 cream color with white vinyl roof, red bumblebbe stripe and red interior, shaker hood, 440 4bbl and automatic transmission. I used the yankee challenge AMT kit, added evergreen strips on the chassis to detail the floor pans, corrected the roof and used many parts from other kits, added fuel and brake lines, handbrake cables, and some other details here and there... Decals are from Keith Marks.

Thanks everyone! This is the 1/25 version.