lanesteele240

Squeeky bumb time is here. Going to put the decals on and i cant find a back up set in the USA. The pressure got to me and i goofed up. The colorado decal sheet does not have numbered decals with a sheet that tells where they go. So i used some internet pics of the car and got one wrong. I used one of the side rally number plates on the hood. The hood plate should have been much much smaller. I had to use one from a diffrent rally and try to fool whoever looks at it with the small hood decal. And here is the trickery Close to the other side. After i mudy it up, you might not even notice it

i wish i could do this kinda work. the more i work on a kit, the more i mess up

The kit decals are printed by cartograph. They are by far the best decal printer in the world. The block decals are printed by colorado. They are quality but just not as good you can see it in the ford badges. The ones from colorado are pixelated. They will be scrapped and the cartograph ones will be transplanted in place

There is just not enough solvaset in north carolina to bend the hood decals into place. So i taped it off with nine dollars worth of tamiya masking tape and painted it sublime enamel model master paint. Same color as the rims and some bad to the bone cudas and roadrunners. The paint was not lifted by the tape anywhere. Guess that is why it cost the big bucks

Ive seen that movie so many times that it could be considered un-healthy. Brandy is " so fine"

Just picked this set up on ebay. 15 bucks shipped. Did not see the sheet i am planning on using

Also. A member of this very fourm built a tamiya 90 something focus with these decals. Do a search for ford focus rally car in the under glass section. He did a great job

I want in

I lucked out and got the kit and both sets of colorado decals in the same ebay auction. ($75) Coloradodecals.com still show this and another set of block decals on their site but it is in portuquese. How long do you guys wait to decal after paint. I dont want to mess the finish up. The decals are going to be high stress enough

When i try stuff like this, i store it in the box and never go back to it. They end up on a hopes and dreams graveyard. Good job

Just cant figure why they just dont make an engine for their kits. Would love to see this thing with the hood up. Billions of kids dont even know that models have engines. Any way your build looks great.

He has completed many snaps and gundam wing kits. He got his own h7 airbrush for his birthday. Air brushing is a challange with a double action so we got him a single. The photos dont show the krystal clear glObs. But he did well and i am trying hard to keep him away from xbox

My sons grandma picked this jewel up at a yard sale and gave it to him. He did 95% Of it himself with little guidance from me. It is mostly finished some small items left.

Cant wait to put the decals on this ride. I got to wait three more stinking weeks for the paint to cure

I have been hording this guy for a long time. Cant think of a better use for him than to mak him into block

The more i work on this kit the more i like it. When i made my first thoughts of the kit, i let other stuff i heard sway me . Still a lot of work filling in holes an pin marks though. As of now i have about 15-20 hours in the kit

Stole a decal from a sheet of ho scalle train stuff to go on the extinguisher.

This is the front linkage block broke in a rally race. Tried to copy it by fake anodizing my links by first metalizing the part with stainless buff and then tamiya clear blue over top. I snagged an extra decal that was on the sheet not used to give some detail.

Bud and KFC. Some chicken bones is bout to get thode

This kit comes with some goofy European jackstands. I chose to have the kit sitting on rubber. I had to putty over the four bugga holes that the stans fit in. The bugga holes were over 1/8 inch and in full view near the rocker panels. Also had to re apply putty on the fenders to make them look better. Some gap issues there.

Nice

Did not get a chance to photo the door fit. That was because they did not. I had to hack and wack the car and the doors to get them on.

Front and rear skid plates had huge location holes to fit with the male tabs under the car. I nixed them and the male tabs. Clovered the holes with putty. after i paint them with aluminum metalizer, i will put some small PE nut heads to give the look that they are bolted on. Some scratches will be added to weather the plates also. I scuffed up the skid plates alittle and hit them with testors metalizer paint. Buffed and sprayed top coat per directions on the metalizer

Kit decal from cartograph will be used where needed but the ken block deals from coloado will cover the outside of the car. I have a set of rally numbers to change the colorado sheets #55 to blocks normal 43. Seats with decal belts Door panels covered with carbon fiber sheet a from KA models. It took 6 gallons on decal soften solution to get the carbon to lay in all the nooks and crannies. Some touch up is needed an a coat of floor wax will finish them off

Can you spot the small ejector pin marks. There are only 16 of them on the bottom of the car. A little putty to dispatch them pesky marks