Jairus

You have no idea what the heck you are talking about Harry! The trim is METAL not mylar and if you built one you would know that. Please keep to subjects you are familiar with and stop flapping your keyboard.

This is exactly correct. The metal trim pieces were the most logical alternative. Many ideas were considered and I believe all avenues completely thought out. The fact is that many versions of this body and fender unit were considered (and still are). To engineer and create a new mold for each version would have been prohibitively expensive considering the costs for making molds today. It just made no sense to mold in the trim strakes on the fenders when the fenders would need to be used for the Sedan Delivery! Likewise a pre-war version of the same car never had such trim. I truly do not know what is coming down the pipe from Galaxie. Gary would not provide details but my intuition is that they are probably versions of the same Chev kits. Either alternative bodies or different versions of the two cars we already have as lower line cars. Although talk has continued regarding the production of a coupe and pre-war versions of the two cars... the costs completely outweigh the possible sales due to the current economy and the shrinkage of the hobby. There are just not enough buyers out there anymore to drop the needed investment money like there was 15 years ago. The one think I do know... Gary is very happy that all the Aero Sedan kits sold out. But... on the flip side, he is very disappointed so few of them show up built in the magazines and on the forums. He also speaks of the article in SA and his complete astonishment that the reviewer, instead of building the car stock, choose instead to install a "Camaro front clip"!!! It was suppose to be a review of the kit! And yet the build up showed up on the cover and inside the rag like a prize as though the builder (name escapes me) thought it a great accomplishment. THAT story I have heard more than once... I will tell you one more thing, I have built 5 of those kits and all of them got some form of the fender trim applied. Not a single one has had the trim pop off or come loose. If the instructions are followed, ie: a pre-bend placed in the pieces, the trim stays put! This is the very reason for the 3.5 skill level.

Me either... I had to demand an envelope! Charles, make sure your answer did not end up in the spam folder and/or the address you are sending to is correct. dcfletcher17@gmail.com

GREGG! Get this one in the mag for heavens sake!

SENDING in... have not finished the layout yet on my article Mike. (silly) What's wrong with the directions? Color call-out I bet. Like you said, that is why the 3.5 skill level. This is not your fathers snap kit dude.... I did the illustrations and tips at the end of the instructions working directly with Gary. We both figured most builders would know how the bits went together so we didn't want to insult anyone's intelligence by dumbing down the step by step. But everyone's a critic... Sorry... okay, shutting up and watching intently your directions. Carry on!

Well seems like this thread has taken a very divergent path. And I will continue that path by making this statement. Gary Schmidt started SAE because he is a model car guy. His workshop is huge and devoted to model cars. Even today he is building projects, attending club meetings and buying up new and old kits on ebay when the need arises. Gary was then and is now A MODEL CAR GUY! Not to mention a very good builder... SAE was what we grew up with so to speak. Gregg and I both feel this and we each have written for the magazine in the past. When I started with Plastic Fanatic I never considered the two competitors and for a long time contributed to both! When Gregg purchased the mag from Roy he set out to make it better than SAE... and with the new and improved Model Cars Magazine he has succeeded! Today MCM is a direct competitor but back then... everyone who was anyone in the hobby had subscriptions to both magazines including me. I devoured both mags and considered both to enrich the hobby. Never considered one better than the other... just different. That is why there is nothing wrong with talking about SAE here, especially the pre-Kalmbach era. I have a complete collection and still refer back to old issues. Gary might have spawned the direct competitor to MCM but he identifies with MCM more and has more in common with MCM than you can even imagine! Gregg and I have even stayed the night in his house and stayed up till all hours of the night talking about how to make MCM a better magazine and I don't even remember SAE coming up in the conversation other than a brief discussion about former editor Kirk Bell. Mike, I think the word you are looking for is "Ironic". But I believe Gary reads this forum and what you guys post... he will most-likely see. (P.S. there are more projects coming out of Galaxie....)

Engine is up to you totally. Yeah, forgot. Scratch it of course and Evergreen has the tube you need for this capped off by a '40 Ford cap.

Mike, I just happen to have a how-to build article regarding the Chevy Aerosedan going to MCM this week! When it gets printed..... I have no idea, but if you want some tips and or tricks I can help you via PM until. I would have posted this as a PM but a teaser on a future article is always fun eh? As for your how-to thread... I say GO FOR IT! I would love to point Gary Schmidt (man behind the Galaxie Aerosedans) to it and I will be very interested in seeing what you do to lower the model. (However, slight correction... the kit is no longer in production and is completely sold out!)

Yeah keep laughing if it sells! He only needs one buyer and there are thousands of fools out there.

You win and I have said this for YEARS! If you have an off topic section you can deselect the parameters so when somebody new clicks on the "View New Content" the Off topic stuff does not come up. If someone wants to read and write an off topic post they will know where to look. Easy and simple.

Sorry, not much work on the Roadster last night. Did create a little linkage for the brake master cylinder... but been busy getting these two little Ferrari's ready to mail. They are going to Turin Italy for the 21st Slot car show beginning of May. http://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=44461 The theme there is "Ford vs. Ferrari". Ralph Klose and I have been working together for 6 months on these projects and a bunch of pictures can be found on my Fotki if anyone cares. http://public.fotki.com/jairus/slotcars/ralphs-dinos/ The little Spyder features a hand made brass rod chassis with a rewound Mubuchi motor. The 1/24th coupe is a vintage Cox restored from an eBay find, brought back to full glory with NOS rubber tires. I still have to fab a set of exhaust pipes (aluminum tube) and a set of head light covers (vac-form) but the 1/32 car is DONE! After mailing via UPS to Germany... I plan to get the decks clear and finish that '29 toot-sweet! (time for Worship service....)

This is the look I had in mind and illustrated. The windows are less than half the original height. (Stole this image off the R&C site if you cannot tell.)

Bern, No tips... other than that pic illustration remains unfinished. I liked the look and was under a deadline so.... At any rate, build it how you like. The Revell '40 standard kit's a great starting place... tho, I figure the venerable old AMT '40 is still applicable. Engine is whatever you can fit in with a passel of carbs. Seems Norm is going to be busy sending out those air scoops! (Replicas & Minatures of MD item # FH-40 $4.95) Because it seems a number of my drawings in this challenge have them! :-) J

Brian, you need the numbers too I take it? That type font is fairly unique. I can point you to a web site where they sell generic roundels and numbers. Maybe you can find something that will work. Although finding the exact dia is impossible that way. I would suggest you paint the roundels (mask and airbrush) and then lay decals for the numbers. Professor Motor is the place I buy all my decals. Good stuff, a little slow on shipping but reasonable prices.

Martha, I think he's got it!

Install normally. The picture is.... of a 1934!!! Totally different sheetmetal so build your '32 as is and paint to match the pic is my only suggestion. Not much you can do starting with a different year car. 1932 to 1933/'34 marked a lot of changes including a 6" longer wheel base, completely different sheetmetal. Improved engine and for the first time.... a locking spare tire mount! I bet that was important during the depression huh? Differences between the '33 and the '34 outwardly are two hood handles instead of one, a curved grill and hood louvers on '33 as opposed to straight grill and louvers on the '34. Other than that, they are nearly impossible to tell apart.

:lol: No, you will be fine. That is an easy one to learn on.

Not quite a sunroof. Early Ford production utilized a soft top insert up till 1937 on all coupe bodys. That was one of the first things to rot out in the wrecking yard so when a young future rodder went to build something, the hole in the roof either needed filling or left open. Look at your kit and you should see a line where the wood framing and canvas covered insert is.

Jody, the Diecasts were called Rat RodsTM. Yeah, Revell copywrited the term! Had long talks with Ed over the phone regarding where the term originally came from. Eventually they released them as Revell RatRods and that is how to search for them on eBay. There is a total of 12 individual cars/designs, but I only worked on the last 9. The first three were not well received but I think they are nice enough. Actually, I think the whole set are very beautifully made, but they are not Rat Rods in MHO! Rat Rods need to look dirty, scratchy, messy, dangerous and unfinished! A project in progress if you will. My build will end up looking like the illustration... mostly. But deeper down there will be a rusted out floor, dents, scratched paint and greasy hand prints here and there. Because that is what a Rat is suppose to be! Oh and there will be no skulls on my Rat! Worked till midnight last night and made some good progress. Put on a spreader bar, motor mounts, transmission tailpiece and some front shock mounts. Here is a frame mockup. The front and rear axles are Revell early "A" and probably from the '31. The quick change same but I replaced the rear gear cover with one that actually HAD some detail. Next up is the steering box, master cylinder and rear shock mounts then brake lines and finally paint! With the body in place. Norm sent me a set of carb scoops for this project... thanks Normie! Replica's and Miniatures has always been one of the best for quality and customer service! But, going to have to break out the Alclad for those eventually, but first the plumbing and linkage for all six 97's will mostlikely have me addlepated!

Ah... yeah, sure! I really didn't think that one through.... just some sort of 5 spoke I guess.

Kaleb, the acrylics I use are made by "Golden" but you can use pretty much anything including Createx and model car paints! Just thin everything to the consistence of water. Very thin when airbrushing on paper. I paint on Strathmore Bristol ONLY. This is because it takes the frisket masking material well and allows cutting the mask right on the paper with-out going through. If you have any more questions, feel free to ask.

Ink pen and acrylic paints with an airbrush. Then a little artists markers for details and a very little colored pencil for effect. Is there a kit available of a 1962 Mercury Comet? I generally only do drawings for the mag that are of subjects in scale and available recently. I have not done any in the past but if a kit is coming I will certainly consider it.

Mathias, That kit is a 1961 Rancharo and was re-released... what? Three years ago? The grill I illustrated is a '62 and not in the kit so good luck finding one. It was drawn for Gregg back when he was building a 1:1 and to my knowledge not possible in scale unless there is a resin grill and front fenders available somewhere. The premis was to cross a Shelby cobra (scoop and stripes) with the Rancharo and what would it look like. The front bumper is actually the real '61 piece but trimmed down by removal of the lower shield creating a straight "blade" much like the Mustang. Also note the rear wheel opening has been radiused and a lip added. Good luck.

Go man go! The way I see it.. you can either start with two kits or one plus evergreen plastic and a lot of patience for fitting and carving and sanding!

After a bit of soul searching and parts searching I discovered that the rear cross-member might be Model A and from a '29 Revell frame. (Came out of a scrap box of bits) My bad. The idea for this tip came from a copy of Hot Rod Yearbook No.14. The car was built by Dick "Magoo" Magugorac, a '29 on '32 rails, where he replaced the front and rear cross-members for a more lowered look. When I read that in 1973 I assumed the cross-members were Model T but were indeed Model A placed onto a Model B set of frame rails. I have been doing this trick since '73 but miss labeled the cross members earlier in this thread as being from a Model T. That is unless they are from a '27 or '28 frame because that would/could make them the same or very similar as a '29 Model A. Soooo sorry for the confusion.