Jairus

All '26 and '27 models are the same as Ford was on a 2 year cycle back then. However, that MPC kit is the only coupe body available, ever! The "Lil'John" Sedan Delivery is a sedan, not a coupe. If you bothered to read my article in MCM I explained it all at the time and didn't feel the need to rehash everything in this thread.

And that kiddy's is the only 1927 T body available in scale! Nice build.

Charles Cochran contacted me asking where the '36 nose comes from. When this illustration was published in SAE back in 1999, R&D Unique/AAM had worked together to produce a beautiful transkit complete with correct heads and waterpumps in resin and whitemetal. The transkit would give the builder the chance to construct a correct 1935 or '36 pickup. Contacting both Art Anderson and R&D Unique reveals that the kit is no longer available. I bring this up because I have been doing the art thing for 25 years. This unfortunately means that sometimes parts and bits once available through the aftermarket industry may no longer be available if the image was printed more than 5 years back. So.... either Charles takes the chance and scratch builds his grill using a 1934 passenger car grill or he contacts Dave for another design. Because... I probably got at least another 50 designs here that Dave didn't use!

Beautiful build up! Reminded me of a Boy Scout Jamboree that I went to back in '68. I road in the back seat on the way there and home and the thing I remember most about the ride... no arm rest! Yup, no arm rest because I kept trying to fall asleep and without an arm rest, my head was unsupported. Weird but true! Regardless, I have a soft spot in my heart for these little people movers and you did a very nice job.

Is this a great forum or WHAT?

Tom, I can help you. Sealed "Street Heat" kit if you have an AMT or Revell '32 Ford? I need only the frame rails by the way.

... so Dave. Shall we post updates in this thread or start our own... or will Gregg be setting up a forum section just for the builds like over at that other forum?

Nice! But why not Bud?

:lol: BAN HIM!

To Dave and members of MCM. I am honored more than you can ever know! It is a cool idea regardless if the artist were me, Jeff Norwell, Steve Sanford or Keith Weesner. Love the idea however, do not be put off by the presence of my name on the list. I wanted to play too but will in no way be in competition for first place... whatever that is. That would not be cricket I feel since my name is on the title of the contest. However... I will be posting updates regarding progress of my project and maybe, just MAYBE I'll finish this one... But I do want to help so if anyone wants a good digital copy of their project or has questions about what is what, drop me a line and I will help if I can.

Hey Andy, I didn't do much better my first race in 1971. We finally got double elimination instituted so I got to go down the hill at least 4 times before being eliminated for good. There were ... wow, lots of cars. I am guessing between 70 to 90 back then. Salem, OR has a track in a downtown park so it's dedicated to SBD only but joggers use it alot too. Salem still has an active program but rarely get more than 25 cars entered each year. Suppose I could dig out a picture of my car and my having to wear embarrassing horn rim glasses.... but I won't. I did a lot better the next year scoring a 4th place and getting to kiss Miss Oregon during the awards ceremony. Never did anything close the last two years because I grew so tall. And I never got a model car as a consolation prize ever..... Edit: finally found that pic. But not going to bump the thread....

Flux. You needed to use a rosin core solder because it has flux in it. This is for electrical connections and don't need cleaning. For those guys soldering brass to brass for construction purposes... look for a product called "Stay-Brite". Tower hobbies has it available if your local hobby shop dosn't carry. This is a very strong solder with silver in the mix. Plus it includes the very best flux known to man included, Acid flux! 1. Clean contact surfaces with sand paper. 2. Wet the tip of your iron with flux and then solder. 3. Using a toothpick place a tiny drop of flux on the joint. 4. Touch the iron tip to the joint and the acid flux will burn off, (don't breath the fumes) which pulls the solder into the joint. 5. After soldering immediately clean with toothbrush, water and kitchen cleanser. If you do not clean, the acid flux will start corroding the brass and solder but you can wait a day if need be. NOT OVER NIGHT! Here is an example of my soldering skills:

The show is over. We sold out on all the L and XL shirts. There are a few XXL and five XXXL shirts left over from the show. All remaining shirts will be sold through the SABA web site once they get it up. Also... SABA will be reprinting more L and a few M sizes at a later date. BTY, I still have a couple XL shirts here... I am tired and my feet hurt.

I would sell it to her! What are you going to do with it anyway? I'll just catch dust... and think of the fun she can have playing with it dreaming about all the pretty stuff. Of course she will break it but just think. You might be starting her out in modelbuilding with the slightest little thing there. Kids are great!

I have both here and looks like it will. Not sure why Jimmy's web site suggested the Revell kit unless that was the only available kit it would fit. Not much use to sell a resin body and suggest only "unobtanable" kits as a doner for parts!

Jimmy Flintstone offers a nice resin "Tall T" stock body. I'm just say'n.... Art, the stock wheels are there but have vinyl/rubber tires that slip on. They are not cast together.

Here are a few that I built a while back.

Pacific Northwest Model Car Fest is this Saturday! Doors open at 9am for the public and entrants.... 7am for the vendors. From what I understand the entry fee and shirt are $15 at the door. Entry fee without shirt is $5... but don't quote me on that. See those of you from the PacificNW on Saturday. I have a couple shirts left if someone still wants before the show... two XL and two L. $12.00 ea. Had to raise the price a bit to cover shipping. Turns out to be more expensive to send via the U.S. postal service than I had originally thought! Go figure....

Could be low overhead...

That it is Art, that it is. Any chance you could post a picture of the real thing too? Many of us were not around back then...

Sorry Raul, I have been very busy this past week and missed your question. I don't think the misalignment is that bad. Here is a pic I swiped from Wiki and it shows that the molding is located above the horizontal line of the stock grill. My thoughts are to simply shorten the molding/spear about a scale foot or more. This still provides the chrome tie-in between the steel and the wood while making the misalignment less obvious. Painting the grill shell is definately an option and could look cool provided you paint the car a light color so the black between the bars can show. If you paint the car and grill black.... the whole nose will look too massive. Maybe break it up with some chrome spears like a 1938 Ford? Or the nose of the Black Force? For styling tricks look at some of the stream-lined passenger trains of the 30's. Seems automobile designers moonlighted putting down some lines for the Railroad industry. Or was it the automotive industry copying.... well, check out a couple. The tall nose's on automobiles of that era were simply a styling excercise. A tall proud grill demonstrated strength and prowess. Ship designers sometimes placed a false funnel on the top deck of Passenger ships for the same reason.

I guess I am clueless according to Bill. You are correct regarding the terminology. Manufacturer vs producer but what I was refering to was a story told about this very cover on the weekly radio show "The Beatle Years". That story I have heard more than once and if you think Capitol only has ONE pressing plant then fine. I have some lake front property to sell you...

Not likely! Like Alice Cooper.... I have the cleaned up version. My Aunt gave it to me after she tore off a corner thinking it MIGHT be one of the ones were the producer applied a new face to the album jacket. Apparently there were three record producers and one simply glued a new paper printed cover while another made a whole new sleeve and swapped the albums. Aunt Karen bought that album from Tower Records here in Salem when it first came out. She had a good chance of getting the right one so I have no hard feelings now owning a good copy with a damaged jacket.

Harry, OKAY... did some digging and found out that what you have there is fairly rare. The original Alice Cooper release had a paper "panties" sleeve around the record but was recalled (not due to unintended accelleration) because some jerk thought they were not flame retardent. That photo is courtesy musictap.net. A vinyl blog of sorts and a place I will be returning to from time to time.

Picture please! I have that 1972 album with the fold out stand and opening desk from 1972 but my inner record sleeve is just a plastic bag. The outer cardboard sleeve has a face like an old wood top school desk suitably carved and marked up. HARRY, WHAT YOU GOT?