Jairus

There must be Duracell batteries in this thread... it just keeps going and going and going.... :roll: By the way, Welcome to MCM Forums Don!

That is some fantastic work Chris! Do you actually drive them? :shock:

Posted some time ago, but thank you for bringing it up again!

No Bill, not perfect because it's NOT a Ford! But Freaking beautiful none-the-less!!!

NEAT pics.. thanks for posting!!!

Marc, now you are crossing the line! Do we need to lock this thread? Lets quit the personal attacks please and stay with the facts please.

Me too! 8)

(sigh)

Careful people! Let's tone this down just a bit.... no personal attacks will be permitted!!! Marc thus far has been very cordial in his posts. I would hate to have to ban Alan after only one post...

Ariel

Marc, I am part of this model culture and like to think my ear is securely on the rail of the hobby train. I spend a lot of my time studying trends within the model culture and have to totally disagree with your “general statement about the hobbyâ€. It is true that there are a lot of collectors out there but they are in no way the larger percentage currently! Nearly everyone in this hobby that I talk to usually gets around to telling me, in painful details, about their latest build project. NOT about their latest acquisition! This will probably change as time passes due to the fact that fewer and fewer younger modelers are joining while huge amounts of builders AND collectors are dieing off… “Thus far the mortality rate is 100%… nobody gets out alive!†J

I have cast taillights with nothing more than tin foil used as a mold! For that I mix epoxy resin, 15min epoxy or fiberglass resin with Tamiya clear red Acrylic. Looks pretty good and won't take much red paint to tint it. If you really need the mounting pin then stick a clear rod into the back of the resin before it drys! Why make it more complicated than it needs to be?

Gee thanks Steve! :x

Yes Henry, we are talking about Reliable Resins! I got the two mixed up because I have a Resilient Resin body here and was NOT impressed with the quality. Very rough! Sorry 'bout that guys! (backing away slowly....)

I have to defend Jimmy Flintstone here... I have many JF pieces and all of them have flawlessly smooth finishes, no voids or bubbles in the surface. His work is simply beautiful as a resin caster! Jimmy provides not only clean and sharp resin but the complete kits include flawless vacuum formed windows, cast metal wheels and other nicely done detail parts. I am sorry, but I have to disagree with you on the equity you bestow on Resilient Resins and Jimmy Flintstone!! JF products may not be as nicely done as Modelhaus castings, as you stated. But the prices are a little more reasonable in my opinion, and... they require a lot less prep and correction to build up correctly! Resilient Resins may have simply allowed a bad copy to go out to the customer... but a response like the eBay posting suggests that some other discourse has gone on in the past between the two parties leaving the buyer still unsatisfied.

A "Sharp Dart" Mark? Sorry, sorry.... very nice build so far Tom! Keep us informed.

I have one of their bodies here... a McLaren M8. I agree that the quality is a bit poor compared to what other companies are currently producing. Maybe 15 years ago we would have accepted this level of work with out question but today the technology is perfected so I see no reason to produce this shoddy a product unless it is purely unadulterated laziness.

I think you did a marvelous restyling job with those decidedly ugly headlights. Although I had some inspiration in the design this kit... my headlights were suppose to be more like a 1940 with the stock "torpedoes" only slightly sunk into the fender. The build looks very beautiful!!!

There are probably as many ways to do this as there are builders to think about it. I personally trimmed the shaft into two little numbs and then snapped that onto the frame tube. (plastic is very flexable you know) The simplest method is usually the best, but I too like the first idea where the lower "triple tree" is drilled for a pin. That pin can be bent slightly to give it a friction fit. However, what keeps the upper from moving around?

The problem might be those cartoon like avatars..... :roll:

FREEKING COOL!!!! More dirt and mud but really neat!

Is there anybody in LA that still speaks English? Oops... sorry, broke my own rule....

Personally, I would never use solder! The material polishes up pretty good in the beginning but getting it attached is the hard part and it's heavy. I would suggest using copper electrical wire that is painted over solder any day!!! Plus you can solder the copperwire together thus creating your own headers. Finished headers can then be painted gloss black and then alclad if a chrome look is the final result. If you want to make chrome trim then use evergreen plastic and coat/cover it with baremetal. There are no short-cuts in modeling! It all takes huge amounts of time and effort to create a realistic looking model!!!!

James, All the Hobby shops in Albany that I knew of and those on the Internet are gone. At least the phone numbers come up disconnected.... We had one in Salem close (SkySport) so that leaves those of us in the Capitol City with one Hobbyshop and one RC shop. Plenty with the availablity of on-line sources. The two shops in Salem are in the Phone book and they are RC Plus and Leasure Hobbies. Welcome Home!

Looking really good there Steve! I am proud of you... :wink: