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Awesome work in progress John, thanks for sharing!!

Great! Bob is definitely one of the nicest guys you will ever want to meet and his stuff is top notch!

Cool project, I'm loving it!

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Hey my friend, I am sorry, I feel I should have given you a more detailed answer to your question. I know Bob Dudek personally because he always shows up at the shows and to several of our monthly meetings. I dontl know if he has an emaill address or a phone number that you might get in contact so hopefully someone here might help. I didn't mean to brush you off with my response. I guess the next time I see him I will ask if it's okay to share the information here regarding his personal email or phone number....

Very cool but I agree, please get it done.....

Simply put, there's no one like Norm!!!

Smooth as a baby's "culito"!!!! I still have to clean up some wax between panel lines and stuff but I am done with the body, next, foiling... Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki

Very cool!!!

Wow! And here I thought I was asking a dumb question...... I always did have an idea how important light is vs exposure vs settings on a camera etc. etc.... I think I will go with an 18% gray background, thank you for all your expertise guys, truly appreciated! Ain't this a talented bunch of glue sniffers in our great forum!!!! We have it all here....

Thanks guys, Tom, so far so good, great kit, really enjoying this build!

Those are Bob Dudek sombrero hubcaps in metal, I am sure someone here can help you find a way to get them. The embossing powders? Any good craft store like Michael's carries them.

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Thanks man. That is one of several different style cases I own, don't even remember where I got that one, I am sure it was at a hobby shop somewhere, they usually carry an assortment of them. They can range in price from 6 upwards to 12 or 14 dollars.

Thanks fellas! Ed, I will be adding at least 4 to 5 more coats of clear once all is said and done, I am using Odds and Ends clear for this one, it is very similar to PlastiKote clear. Yes, you can go with the satin look on it, I still suggest that you wetsand it and use the polishing cloths to make it look even better, there are always small defects on the paint that you need to correct in order for it to come out smooth. If you look at this picture closely, there are some small pebblelike marks on this paintjob. That's the reason for sanding before applying my decals. Hosted on Fotki

Thanks guys and Yes Nick, it also includes the wire wheel type hub caps....

Thanks fellas, a little more progress... Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Just remember, think PURPLE...... Hosted on Fotki

The one that walks in a catwalk??? I'm just kidding. I would go with 1 and 4.

I hate when some builders here (specially the good ones) take pictures of 1/1 cars, resize them to a smaller degree and take credit for all this amazing work. Shame on you John....... Oh... and by the way, are we supposed to believe you are as innocent as your avatar shows???

What would be the best neutral background when taking pictures of a purple or dark blue car? I want to take pictures outside away from direct sunlight using my digital camera.

No need to apologize man, that is why we post our projects here, to share but also to learn from others! I like to use the regular cheap lacquer thinner to thin my fingernail polish, seems to work well for me. I always advice people to play with the mixture vs the air when using this type of medium so, it's always good to have a few spare parts primed before shooting your paint on your project. Make sure to use a good primer to protect your plastic. Currently, I am using Krylon but you can also try Plasti-Kote or Dupli-Color primers. The color I am using for this project is a pretty dark purple I purchased at Wal-Mart. It's called, Buffy the Violet Slayer I will post pictures later, I just hope you can see the "purple" in it, for some reason, the purples always seem to come out blue when the photos are taken. You are correct, decals do not get along with flat surfaces, that's why I am spraying at least 3 coats of clear first, wetsanding them, adding my decals and then finishing off with at least another 4 coats of clear. I will then wetsand my last clearcoats again and finish off with a nice, smooth polishing and waxing!

Oh man, you are one creative guy, I am loving this project!!!

Thanks! For the chassis, I use Rub N Buf, it's a pastelike product sold in Michael's and it's how I create this effect.

I am gonna answer this with 2 names....... Holthaus and Dudek..... Need I say more???

You got me drooling over those paintjobs bro......