Cato

-any other professionals or experienced epoxy users. I use 5-minute Z-Poxy by Pacer when called for. It works well. However, many times I want to 'paint' a thin stripe or small bead in a confined area and get the usual strings or misplaced blobs. Very frustrating. The instructions on the bottles say 'Remove excess immediately with denatured alcohol'. My question is ; can it be thinned when mixed to get a more workable consistency? If so, denatured alcohol or some other chemical? Bond strength (if thinning effects that) is seldom an issue in these small areas. Nor cure time if thinning effects that too. I know heat (from a heat gun) might thin it but I imagine it would 'kick' it faster than 5 minutes. Advice greatly appreciated.

No Skip, it's just the poor lighting and flash. Will be better in outdoor light. The cowl gets final color sand then clear. The fender has been cleared but not final polished. Lot of construction before that. The firewall will get a bit of road dust and sweat in the corners and crevices like the engine did. No drippy stuff and no rust though. They'll be a lot of plumbing covering most of it and the back of the engine is a natural block. Thanks for your kind comments.

Scott, That assumes you believe the manufacturers ratings for power and torque. Notorious at that time for 'fibbing'-either to get customers, or fool insurance companies. Not saying the Buick didn't make the number, but others did too but rated a lower set of figures. What was the bore and stroke of these '70's GS engines?

^^^ Great post Scott.

Off on a slight tangent here. I just left the spray area where I applied Alclad II to my Roll's firewall which was a large aluminum casting in 1:1. Now I wasn't after pure chrome-like results. I actually mixed 3 drops gold, and roughly 50 / 50 white aluminum and chrome, applied over TS-14 black.. Alclad, shot lightly is a nice finish and easy to work with if you keep all the equipment spotless. Sadly the result came out a soft, light, almost magnesium finish with a nice sheen. I then went back with pure chrome and hit the raised edges. That was a better look for a natural large casting. Would have been brighter but went over the previous gray finish, not the black base. It will be in my work thread when I add the details and plumbing to the firewall. Sorry to disrupt the chrome vs. Alclad battle.

That masking fluid idea is great-thanks guys. I hate to put adhesives on painted areas-crappy join. Yes Harry, I've known that but in certain non-structure places like windows (or canopies) it will work. And as a temp adhesive for mock-up as stated it should be good. I used white Elmers on the GT for suspension height. On the Gullwing, I used it on the doors for holding them while painting. Get even color that way, then they pop off. I may test to see how it does with fabrics...

Give me that again Bob? You use it like liquid mask? You mean you mask, shoot paint and then the attachment points are clean for gluing?? I assume you remove the mask by wetting?

Very good warning-thanks Buzz.

Great info. Thanks to all.

Any experienced users? What is it best used for on models?

After much reference study, I discovered that Pocher got all the shielding for the wiring on the firewall wrong. Not leaving well enough alone, I Dremeled off the cast- on shielding. I've made new correctly shaped, 3mm wide shielding from flattened aluminum tube and will make lead foil retaining straps. Then barrier the raw styrene, prime, black, and Alclad the aluminum finish. Of course this is all after putting the pretty paint on the outside of the cowl. So I masked that while work continues and will color sand, clear and polish at the end. I added about 4 days to the job for little real gain; the rear of the engine blocks a lot of this detail.......

Thanks guys. A lot to go before under glass. Right now it's 'under dust cloth' while work continues...

The overwhelming desire to 'see what I've got' took over again so I got out of sequence once more. Here's, the engine properly bolted in the chassis and the driveshaft connected after a couple of mild fixes. Koo was right; takes 5 minutes working alone and amazingly, it all fits to attachment points correctly. The good news is that's it's easily removable when I start the coach panel mock-up on the chassis. Back in its storage box then. Having worked the cowl a bit, I just today completed shooting the maroon and yellow and propped that in place. Will Alclad the face of the panel, color sand the colors, and clear them. Then add the doo-dads that go on and connect up. Now the colors seen here are close but mostly the maroon is slightly darker and the yellow slightly brighter. At least they match the wheel and the front tray correctly. Best I could do light-wise in my tiny assembly room... Tell me what you think:

Sand as well as you can. Apply a skim coat of filler. Then a coat of Future. Prime and finish in the usual manner.

Beautifully done-looks the part of a nasty piece.

My iron, standard bore, 427SO sonic-walled at .110" average on the thrust side and has lasted near 3 decades at 550HP. Standard blocks can also easily be drilled for Cammer head oil drains.

:lol: Well I'm certainly doing it with one eye open....

And here is firewall, complete with sink marks at the top. And two useless notches courtesy Pocher. Old friend Bondo takes care of those and chassis oil pump, vacuum fuel pump and electric boxes get color. Lot of plumbing to be added:

With today's cam profiles and new heads from Robert Pond and Bill Coon, 775+HP in the 7500 RPM range is easily achieved. They are usually displacing 482 cubic inches in the aftermarket blocks.

Search is your friend: http://www.mechanicsupport.com/Aircraft_Hose_Size.html

An LS-7 would fit perfectly in there................

Thanks Tim. Enough is right-I'm starting the firewall now which seems like a snap-tight kit....

You guys are most generous with your comments. Your support is most appreciated.

If the lines run to the rear it's a differential cooler. If forward, it's a transmission cooler. Either way, they're dash 10 or dash 12 lines.