Cato

As the 'other person' in your life I agree that a 1/2 hour is an adequate time. I prefer to let it dry several hours to a day. The longer time for finished parts (like clear glass) or top coats. Never have a problem that way. I always find 100 other things to build, prepare, mock-up so it doesn't slow up progress on the build for me to wait longer. I do not polish Future as I prefer polishing kits on the paint or clear coats.

A coat or two of Future on the putty will form a barrier.

Doesn't look like this one has cam, valve train etc-??

Thanks for the tip HP.

Thanks for posting picture and link-same as Harry's. Love the metallic finish you achieved on the non-painted steel parts. Sorry I missed this kit.

Agreed-beats the ###### out of the Cup series we have. 600+HP V-8's in light chassis on road courses. Doubt about the models-never saw Vauxhall, Holden or Mondeo kits here. Aussie guys?

A quick email to Swan confirmed that it does not shrink over time once fully cured.

Thanks Wolf-I found it but he doesn't say. Maybe I'll ask over there.

Do you mind posting a few snaps? I agree, I wouldn't do see through-maybe cut-away if I had two kits and the detail stood-up well under scrutiny.

Nice catch Harry! I never saw that kit before and it does have cam and valvetrain. Even cam bearings-get my inside mic ready! Wonder how long since it went OOP? The Lincoln 1/6 427 Cammer I have pales by comparison. Even the price for this was not outrageous.

That Hemi is fantastic-the valvetrain is real. Please try to remember what 1/4 scale kit it came from. (I don't know of any 1/4 scale kits!)

Wolf-some great tips. This talcum powder filler-does it shrink over time?

Runs 11's with these sporty car boots on-not drag radials. Ain't that great-see several guys on here with dedicated race cars going lots faster than that. But it's not one-dimensional at least...

It is chassis 1046. http://www.supercars.net/cars/692.html

Niko, The return spring for the linkage goes on the other (drivers) side of the engine. It is shorter and goes from the rear carb linkage back to a bracket bolted to the bottom corner of the carb. The thin rod is correct as you have it. Both carbs seem to be mounted too far rearward-the rear carb is overhanging the manifold. There is an aluminum vent tube bolted to the rear of the manifold, behind the carb. Study my photos above and you will clearly see all these things. Your workmanship is excellent, keep up the improvements.

The air pan around the carb is nicknamed a 'Turkey Pan' and seals the carb to the hood scoop on Cobras and GT 40's. Here is a shot taken in '66 of the original Comp Cobra: The correct original oil pan for 427's was the Aviad pan and it has a smooth tapered bottom. Other than the general shape of the block and heads, Revell has nothing correct on the 427 and very little correct on the bodywork. The pan and complete engine is seen here: This particular engine has the remote front-mounted oil filter which was a racing option in '66-street cars mounted the single filter below and behind the fuel pump. This is my 1:1 Cobra so I'd be happy to answer any further questions you have:

http://store.spruebrothers.com/small-shop-8-mk-r-multi-head-hold-and-fold-p21119.aspx

Great tip Dave-thanks. Any chance you've got a photo or two? I'm anxious to see that black finish. Assuming your T is 1/8 scale, it follows that smaller rod would work for 1/12??

Niko, Your English is excellent and so are your building skills. Your carburetors are very well done but they can be improved. It appears you left some molding 'flash' around the linkage area and the vacuum breaks. I have removed the choke housings on mine so they look a little different than yours. Also the plug wires seem to replicate the 10mm drag racing wire not the stock original 7mm wire, A thinner set of model wires would improve it. See below: Cheers,

Only if Mann's car used Holman's rear mounted dry sump tank. I've seen no under-skin photos of Mann's cars.

That's very nice to hear Dwayne and I appreciate you picking-up my old thread. Glad something I did helped someone and glad you're doing a GT. Anytime you have a question post in a thread or PM me if you like. I'd sure try to help you find a solution. The key is researching what the 1:1's looked like and pick the features you want on yours. Be sure to post your plan and progress.

Rock on Dude-you've captured the overall look. The front dress looks t!ts. If you're not 100% anal about complete accuracy-maybe if you sectioned the heads a couple MM's to get the valve covers below the hood line???

This is a really cool project and is well done to this point. I'd like to comment about the Gibson engines. Many responders here are obviously knowledgeable drag race guys. It surprises me therefore that no one has mentioned the probable reason for Gibson's apparent scale 'oversize.' To be clear-I'm not affiliated with them nor have I built any. All the criticisms about casting quality and build difficulty may be valid. The basic thing to remember about BBC's and their race derivatives is that they were cast in at least 3 different deck heights (distance from crank centerline to cylinder head deck). That's plus enlarged bore spacing is how the displacements got as high as 815 CI-and higher still now. Strokes over 5"' and bores too made these engines 'bigger' physically than the 427. Deck heights were 9.8" for 427 / 454, 10,2" for 502's and up and some special cast blocks (World Merlins and some Darts) were 11.6 (IIRC) tall decks. By contrast, a SBC's deck is 9.24"-the 'Mouse Motor' and a stock 'Elephant' Hemi's deck was 10.72". So that's why I think Gibsons Sonny Leonard and other motors seem out of scale for 1/25 models. They may have inaccuracies but I don't know. But the above can explain why they look big in model form. I saw the 737" Merlin (11.6" deck) in Tony Bartone's Camaro and it was enormous. Made 1180HP (somewhat mild) on the dyno but Tony ran less compression on the street at a little over 900HP. Many ProMod and Super Street guys run special castings-Musi has a 903" Stratus running 5's... See the monsters here: http://www.streetcarsupernationals.com/pscontend.html

Goo Gone on a cotton tip will work perfectly with no harm too. You can polish with common toothpaste. When completely polished you can use spray auto detailer with microfiber cloth.

I use it mostly for large areas but I use the Fineline as the stripe or color edge and the Friskit from there to cover the larger area. It will not adhere well (for me) over moderately curved surfaces. On flatter surfaces it will give a reasonably clean edge, but burnish it down carefully.