Cato

That's the first time you divulged where they're used. I see (with magnifier) the steering gear box, header bolts, control arm pivot and the alt. bracket. If you must do this, I think straight lengths of the wire would be best to replicate the look. Any glue needs a bigger area than .0015" to hold anything. I also think it's overkill on the restored chassis-doubt they raced that way.

Well thanks Tom-I didn't know that was available. .0015" would be perfect-if he could twist it. They'll be a rash of Grand Ams with non-working ETC's...

Not sure I understand your question. I should clarify, I meant 1:1 Halibrands seen here with safety wire: You don't say where you want this wire for but wheel knockoffs use .032". Since I know of no .001" wire for model use maybe you can try human hair. No one makes safety wire pliers for the twists however...

Andrew, Not sure what safety wire you're referring to but the wire I use on my Halibrands is .032" stainless. That's .001 in 1/25th-the approximate diameter of a human hair...

Yes, the glass is contaminated or the Future may be bad. My Future bottle is 10 years old and it's still fine. Don't use any chemicals on the glass. Sand with sanding cloths, 6000 to 12,000 grit. Clean your fingers with isopropyl. Then rinse glass in water without touching. Blow dry and dip in Future as above. You can also easily make a 'T' windshield out of acetate from a package because it's dead flat.

How about Jack Merkel's gold '33 Willys?

Less wrong than you think-go with it and post it here.

Mike, Beautiful build and color work. A little constructive criticism?? Don't take photos of your beautiful models with garbage cans, driveways and general ###### in the composition. Do take them outside but with simple backgrounds, OK? Your name is Magic Photos-right??

Frank Bullitt would be jealous. The Halibrands really make it!

Excellent concept, seriously good detail and tasteful execution of a wild one. Great job.

Stop the BS Harry. Sometimes the sun shines in Chicago. You "can do anything" in Photoshop-remember????? Make it happen-inquiring eyes want to know...

Pete-I didn't know that was your 935 in the mag-spectacular! Excuse me while I incinerate mine... Man you gotta do a GT40 to show me how it's done.

Nice job Vis. In photos, the panel lines are not off-putting. As said above, very crisp and neat.

John-don't care if you built 'em in your bassinet, POST 'EM! Another great job-way back when...

Here are the Stewart Warner gauges in my car-some Cobras came with Smiths which are arranged the same but have different faces and bezels. Mine are arranged: Tach then speedo are the large ones. The tach is turned sideways so the redline is up. Then water temp, oil pressure, oil temp across the top and amperes and fuel level at the bottom. Hope this helps.

Every one has a favorite method-here's how I did all the glass on my 1/12 GT. I did not tint it but food coloring should work or RIT Dye. Round up some (almost) free materials: Future. A baking tin about 4" x 6" and 3" deep. Clamp type wooden clothespins. A shoebox or similar. Four small jars of paint or similar. A piece of paper towel. Pick a dry, clean area to work with good light-no dust if possible. Lay the paper towel out flat. Fill the baking tin nearly to the top with Future. Clean the glass with a soft brush to get fine 'hairs' off-don't worry if it has minute scratches. Clamp the clothespin on the very corner of the glass so that the glass will touch down on the other corner and use the pin as a 'leg'. Holding the clothespin, slowly dip the glass into the Future and remove it when completely immersed. Lay the pin on it's side on the towel with just the corner of the glass touching the towel. You want the glass to touch down on just a corner, to wick off the Future. Get the glass as vertical as possible so the Future does not dry in 'waves'. Slowly place the four jars around the glass in the shape of the shoebox's dimensions. Clean the inside of the box with a damp towel. Place the shoebox on the jars so it covers the glass but lets air in the sides. I like to let dry 6 to 12 hours. You can do all the pieces at once if they fit under the box. DO NOT touch when installing-use tweezers or clamps and the glass will be crystal clear. The Future will fill very minor scuffs if you had any. Good luck.

I grew up with DED and those guys-Yates, Jeanes, Brown, LJK, Manney, Egan, Csaba. Miss them all and those days-we're gettin' older...

Keep posting man, you have a lot to contribute here. Neat-as-a-pin build and great engine detail-very restrained. Classy job.

Wind wings are for Marys-comp and race cars didn't have the stinkin' things!

Cruz, Meticulous build, beautiful finish. Just a tip for the future? The comp gas caps go with the latch outboard and the hinge inboard. Like every Cobra model everywhere, the windshield frames are too thick. Keep buildin' 'em...

For things like throttle linkage and springs I like dental floss tied to or through the part and a foot long 'tail' hanging off. Can be used on most PE parts too. You can always see the floss on the floor or bench. Just snip off when the CA has set. The floss will go right through those AN fittings and make a storage loop too.

They also required two suitcase boxes---on Prototypes. FIA= French Idiot Authorities. Yes the nose is supposed to tilt but I found that the inner fenders and front of chassis pan prohibited that. The slots did not 'travel' on the pins to raise the back high enough. Anxious to see your solution. I display mine with the fenders down and occasionally with the cover off. As designed, you also can't pull a wheel (as Trump designed the attachment) to show your brake and suspension detail. You will have to scratch your own rotor, pins and threaded knockoff ear.

Do you intend to hinge the nose to tilt so the spare can be seen? If so, you have to hinge the cover also (like where the kit dummy hinges are). That's the only way the nose opened-you had to undo the two hood pins and lift the cover, then tilt the nose forward. Very good luck if you do that and please post it here.

It's a great save Steve. I see what you did with the clear on the headlights situation. Now it only needs some 200MPH bugs and a glass case over that trusty display base!

Jim, Your building skills are such that you will quickly see that the KA set is mostly trash, too expensive and far more work to correct than it's worth. The work you did on the seat shapes is an example. The grommets are also too big for scale effect. You will tear your hair out with the gauge bezels and shift gate and find that the exhaust and engine pulleys are useless. You can do much better yourself. The brakes are unseen as is most of the detail the way Trump engineered the car. The shape however is magnificent. I followed 4 or 5 other builds with this set where the builders either did their own details (not using the KA stuff they bought) or gave up the whole project because of it. My own build avoided that and was very satisfactory with a lot of improvements. You're right to do the best you can rather than shoot for a 100% recreation of !016. The fuel pumps and many details Trump did for 1046 are wrong for 1016 anyway. Best luck and keep posting.