CarModDave

The plate is available in a set from Pro Tech: http://protechmodelparts.com/

Hey Bill. I believe they are #2301, 23" "Chrome T's", with tires (I painted the centers Tamiya Gun Metal). HTH

Once again guys, thanks a lot for all of the comments. Nick - I hope the following answers your questions: * For the exhaust weathering, I used the Tamiya "Master Weathering Set D". It has 3 different colors for exhaust weathering:Burnt Blue (for scorched metal look) Burnt Red (for scorched metal look) Oil Stain (for realistic brownish-gray oil stain color). Here's a link to a how-to from Tamiya, complete with videos: http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/870...ering/index.htm * The body was first painted the Galaxy Gray then the stripes were masked and sprayed black. While the rest of the body was still taped off and the black stripes were dry, I applied the flames. * I almost always have problems with CF decals and the final ones on the Mustang were the 2nd or 3rd attempt! I just apply a bit of Solva-Set and low heat from a hair dryer to help them to snug down around the area(s). Any other questions, just ask away.

Thanks for taking the time to do that, Chris. I guess I should even drop 'em a note, telling them how much I enjoyed the kit. It's not got a lot of parts, but what's there is pretty nice. And it just fell together. I'm glad you enjoyed the end result!

Thanks guys. It was a pretty fun build.

Just finished this one up yesterday. HoK Galaxy Gray with airbrushed "true fire" stripes and swapped the over-sized kit rolling stock for some Pegasus T's. Also added some SMS CF decals on the interior, radiator support and rear valance/front spoiler. Other than that, it's a box-stocker! In the chassis pic, you can see the HUGE rear tubs for the kit tires to tuck into. I added some aluminum tubing to extend the rear "axles":

Yep - The Tamiya detail-up fork set has metal fork tubes that come with the correct gold anodized finish. Saves a bit of time in trying to remove the mold seams from the kit tubes and mix the right colors to achieve that yellow/gold look.

Thanks Nick. I appreciate that.

A few more pics......

Just finished up my latest, Tamiya's 1/12 Ninja ZX-RR MotoGP racer. Added the super detail set from Top Studio that contains 2 PE frets, TONS of resin electrical connectors, all wiring/cables/lines/shrink tube, turned aluminum rivets, etc. Also added the Tamiya detail-up fork set. Color is Tamiya "Special Edition" TS- "Ninja Green". I also added some Scalemotorsport High-Def 1/12 CF decals to the airbox, front fender, rear fender and rear seat back. Oh yeah, the "Ninja" logo base.....It was made from sheet styrene, cut to the shape of the logo outline, then masking and painted with the same Tamiya green.

Urethane clear coat question: Is there a clear that can be applied OVER 2 part urethane with no issues? The reason I ask is........I supplied a painted body for someone, cleared with the usual DuPont ChromaClear that I use. I let the body dry/gas out, etc. for 10-11 days before shipping. I wrapped the body in toilet tissue (loosely, but I did use quite a bit). I sent the body out Friday and it was received today (USPS Priority). However it seems that the heat had somehow managed the soften the clear, causing some imperfections in the clear where the tissue then "attached" itself to the clear!!!! The reciepient was able to wet sand the clear and remove the imperfections but would like to add a final ,thin coat of clear on top. My question is, does anyone know what would be safe to use OVER the urethane? It's the 1st time I've encountered this problem.

Time Machine Resins does a '72........$35.00 http://www.timemachineresin.bravehost.com/gmkits.html HTH

Thanks guys, I appreciate it! Oh, and I went ahead and bit the bullet and bought the "True Fire 2" DVD. Should arrive next week. Next up, some "Toxic Green" and Blue True Fire (on a 68 Camaro Pro Mod body)! Thanks again for the kind words.

Are these the "Kustom Kolor" line of paints made by Valspar, the MAKERS of HoK ?(they are not really true HoK paints, but do use some of the same pigments). Your best bet, since you're not wanting to experiment a bit to see what works (not trying to sound like a jerk here.... ) would be to contact the makers via the contact info on their website, and ask about compatibility issues: Here's their FAQS page, and the contact link is at the bottom. http://www.kustomkolorpaints.com/kustomkolor/FAQ.jsp I hope you find something locally that will work for you.

That turned out fantastic, Charlie! I see you haven't lost your building skills after all. This will be a wonderful way to showcase your amazing product line. Sorry I didn't make the Titusville show last weekend. Hope to see you soon!

Thanks guys. It was a pretty time-consuming "paint day", that's for sure! But is was a lot of fun, too!

Hey Mal! How's things going in Australia? Great looking top fueler. Sorry to hear you had to "build" it twice but I've been there/done that as well. Nothing quite like the sound of a finished plastic model as it drops from your hands onto a solid surface! But it looks like it made a full recovery. By the way, Christine, Allan, Ethan and the dogs have made the safe return trip back to the states after their two + year adventure down under! They all say "Hi"! Actually, more like one last greeting of "G'day"!

Yeah, a "quickie-build"............famous last words! I've uttered them as well on occassion. Outstanding build! I can see why you strayed from a "slump-breaker" to a 2 month project. A very cool ride indeed.

I've been working on my true fire painting so I grabbed a kit from "The Pile" and here's what I ended up with: It's the resin Testors/Jimmy Flintstone "Tub-O-Sorus" slammer kit and all paint is HoK topped with DuPont urethane. I chose this kit because it's a sedan delivery and gave me a bit more area to paint. I'm still not 100% happy wih the end result, as I think the flames on the roof and hood look a bit too ....."structured". Not "random" enough. But I'll keep on practicing! One thing I did notice: On the 1:1's, you can get by with overspraying the Kandy's onto the black base. Doing this "in scale" ended up giving mine more of a "root beer" color. Next time I'll be more careful and try to keep as close to the flame pattern(s) as possible. By the way, if anyone has Mike Lavallee's "True Fire 2" DVD (green & blue flames), any chance you could pass along the order in which the colors are applied? I know what colors he uses, just not the correct order. Anyway, here's the pics. Any questions, just ask away!

Hey Dave! What are up, dude? I'm sure he'll be happy with the end result! I look forward to seeing if you run into any snags as I'm also working on the same kit. However I'm a glutton for punishment and, besides the Tamiya fork set, I'm making myself silly with another detail set from Top Studio. Looking forward to the next installment.............

No microscope but I definitely couldn't do it without my trusty Opti-Visor! Here's a link that will help on using the Tamiya weathering set I used (set D). Scroll down to see a couple of how-to videos: http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/870...ering/index.htm As for other bike builds, I don't have any others posted but I am currently at work on the Tamiya ZX-RR Ninja, again using a detail set from Top Studio.

Actually, there IS another clear urethane in a spray can, made by ALsa Corp, called "SpeedClear" in their "Killer Cans" lineup. Check out the website as there's a ton of other sprays available, everything from colors to CHROME! I haven't used it, and at $40 a can I'd have to agree with the statement made about having a BUNCH of bodies/parts lined up to clear coat because one the components are mixed, I am sure there is a certain "life" to the mixture. But here's the info on the site: http://www.alsacorp.com/products/killercan.../speedclear.htm http://www.alsacorp.com/products/speedclea...ed_prodinfo.htm They also have a "single component" clear coat is spray cans called "Lightning Clear".

.....And here's the other two, the Tiki Trike and Milk Trike. Plus the gratuitous "Group Shot"!

Here's my trikes, built within the first couple weeks of their re-release. First is the Mailbox and Taco trikes:

Very cool, John. I've got both of the new reissues (this one and the "Infini-T") and plan on doing them the same way - as I wish I had been able to "back in the day"! Nice job.