Longbox55

Tamiya makes a pink primer just for that. It's really meant to replicate the factory process for Ferrari, but should work with any red.

Steve is right, Orange Crate.

Good rule of thumb; when you can't smell the solvents, it's dry. My experience, usually within a day or 2, depending on humidity/temperature.

I've used that Duplicolor sealer, too, but have not tried as a the actual primer. I'll have to give that a try sometime.

This isn't even in production yet, and when it does, it's already going to be here.

On the topic at hand, I do have the Ertl John Deere tractor, John Deere Backhoe, Massey Ferguson tractor, and the Cat bulldozer in my collection. I've started on the 2 tractor and the backhoe, but nowhere near finished with them. I also have a rather sizable collection of 1/64 scale Ertl and Scale Models tractors, plus a few 1/16 tractors. There's a couple of 1/25 scale pieces in there, too, a '60s vintage John Deere lawn tractor, and a Melroe (Bobcat) skid steer loader. Last count, there's something like around 300 or so in 1/64.

According to what I've found out about them, they were built around the Allis-Chalmers B. https://youtu.be/DsWZ1CPeknM

Rumor has it we might still get the Ute. Supposedly, the plant where they're building the Camaro/CTS is also setup to produce a North American version of the Ute, along with the SS/Caprice.

Kind of like when they stopped making Twinkies.

From what I see on the GM Heritage site, the strip does not necessarily match the interior color. However, the color of the stripe is determined by the exterior color, interior trim, and tire option. See pages 46 and 47 here; https://www.gmheritagecenter.com/docs/gm-heritage-archive/vehicle-information-kits/Corvette/1967-Chevrolet-Corvette.pdf

Thanks for the tip. I'll have to remember that.

Anyone else having problems with the decals from this kit? I'm in the process of building it, having all kinds of issue with the decals "setting up" way too fast. The adhesive seems to set before I can get the decal in its final position. So far, I've only had the trunk decal completely fail on me. I had similar issues with the '76 Nova pro street as well.

Try 91% rubbing alcohol. That seems to take it right off without much issue. That stuff is actually a lacquer that's applied, as mentioned in the earlier posts, to allow the "chrome" to adhere better.

The 216/236 would not be a good match, the Toyota engine was based on the earlier 194/208 engine. The engine from the MPC '32 Chevy would be the closest.

The black piece on the right is a poly cap. In addition to being used for wheel mounting, they are also used in scale models of mecha figures (Gundam, Macross) for the joints. The one shown is for a Tamiya Skyline, the cap mounts inside the brake rotor. another style, poly cap is the translucent part next to the rotor. This one is also for a Skyline, and Aoshima Top Secret version in this case Cap mounts in the wheel from the inside, and slips over the pin, which is mounted in the spindle and trapped by the rotor Another variation, Fujimi Astro van in this case. The cap is already installed in the wheel, it goes in from th inside of the wheel and mounts on the molded in pin on the axle. One last variant. This is the Hasegawa VW Type 2 wheel I spoke of in my earlier post. In this case, the cap goes in from the outside of the wheel, and is trapped by the hubcaps (not shown). It mounts over the pin on the spindle. As mentioned, there are a few other variants, such as mounting on a metal axle, plus the MRC wheel adapters mentioned in a few posts. I can get some pix of those as well, if anyone wants to see what they are.

Not as unique as one might think. I've seen quite a few of them. You're going to find that the track width will be too wide for the '50 fenders, and the wheelbase is going to be about 2" too short to center the wheels in the rear fenders. If you do the disk brake conversion, depending on how you do it, that will make the track width issue worse in the front as the disk brake trucks are another 2" wider on the track width per side.

The sheer numbers of them I've serviced over the years and the types of repairs done to them disagrees with your statement about the Japanese and Korean cars quality.

If you can get it, Simple Green will strip die cast as well, though it will discolor it. It won't dissolve it like the lye based degreasers used for stripping plastic.

No. Take a look at a Hasegawa VW Type 2. The poly cap mounts on the outside of the wheel, rather than the inside, trapped in the wheel by the hubcap. Most other that put the poly cap in the wheel mount them from the inside of the wheel.

Even among the Japanese companies that use poly caps there really isn't any standardization. Some mount them to inside of the wheel, some to the outside. Other have the caps mounted in the spindles instead of the wheels. I have also seen a few, one Fujimi and one Tamiya, that used poly caps and a metal axle

Great tip! I'm actually planning to do some experimenting on making radiator and heater hoses in a similar fashion, with one difference; I'm thinking of trying black heat shrink tubing as the outer layer. I have a rather sizable kit with different sizes in it, some are really too small for any wiring that I do in 1:1, but look to e pretty close for making scale hoses. Looking to possibly eliminate the painting step and still get a realistic rubber look. I'll post pics if it works out.

http://s281.photobucket.com/user/Longbox55/slideshow/Art%20on%20Wheels%202015

Your explanation is close, with one technical error. It's not that the air needs to get in", but rather that the gasses from the solvents need to "get out". Drying the outside layer will prevent the gasses from escaping, not allowing the lower layers to cure. I use Duplicolor very regularly, they dry fine by air. Humidity is more of an issue it seems, they do tend to blush with higher humidifies, but nothing that can't be taken care of with some polishing compound. Several of us have had issue with one of their clears recently, though, the Acrylic Lacquer clear in the blue can.

Mechanics love 'em! They're notorious for premature balljoint and center pivot and radius arm bushing failure. Rated at 4.5 hours per side flat rate just to replace the balljoints, easy money if you know how to do 'em fast.