Longbox55

Don't forget that some of those kits, like the '33 Chevy Panel Truck and the GMC Pickup, have been altered to the point that the original kit no longer can be reissued.

http://www.oldcarbrochures.org/NA/Chevrolet/1957_Chevrolet/1957-Chevrolet-Engineering-Features-Booklet/1957-Chevrolet-Engineering-Features-001 Red oxide primer would be correct for the floor pan, with satin black on the frame rails. Minimal, if any, overspray near the sills (this tends to get overdone). The 3rd member for the rear differential is also a red oxide/rust red color, satin or semi-gloss finish.

Round 2 needs to reissue this!

I gave this a try on a Mobius Hudson, used Micro Scale adhesive (I already had it on hand) and Meijer brand foil. Worked much better than BMF in my opinion. Matthew, the door locks and the "Twin H Power" badge on the trunk lid were done using metal leafing, as I found it easier to do those that way. It basically amounted to painting them as one would with "chrome" paint, only using the adhesive size, then applying the leaf. I find that works sell on very small items that would be difficult to do with regular foil.

I haven't tested the acrylic clear over hobby paints yet, but the Paint Shop clear works fine over Tamiya and Testors lacquers, and I have had good results using it over Testors enamels, Tamiya acrylics, and even over some of the old Kustom Kolor paints, which I believe are a modified enamel. Testors Inca Gold lacquer Tamiya Lavender lacquer Testors Magnesium Brown enamel Tamiya Clear Blue acrylic, shot over Duplicolor silver Valspar JD Green enamel The roof and side color on the Hudson in my other post is Kustom Kolor enamel, Gamma Gold.

1; Yes, Duplicolor automotive lacquers do need a clear coat. You do not mention what color you're using or if it is a metallic or not. If it is a metallic, I would advise against sanding, as that can mar the metallic effect. If you do need to sand it to smooth it out, you will need to go back and lay down a coat or 2 to bring the color back. If it blushes, however (Duplicolor is known for this in high humidity), buffing the finish out with rubbing compound will not hurt anything. 2; I would strongly suggest using one of Duplicolors own clears over it. While I have seen excellent results fro builders using future, I have heard of problems with it cracking. In my own experience, I was not really impressed with the finish Future left. 3; Do the detail panting after the clear. That will prevent any potential paint incompatibilities. In addition, some of the tiems you mention, such as the battery, do not have a gloss finish. 4; Lots of discussion both ways on this one. Personally, I do any foiling after the clear. Now, if you're looking into getting into airbrushing, a line I can suggest is the Paint Shop line from Duplicolor. Usually found at the FLAPS, it comes in a premixed 1 quart can, ready to spray. That's what I use primarily for clearcoating, much cheaper than getting rattle can clear, especially if you can catch a sale. They also have a matte and satin clear, plus 2 different intercoat clears. They lay down very thin. Everything on this Hudson except for the top and side secondary color is Duplicolor. This van is also mostly Duplicolor. The maroon stripe between the top and bottom colors is Tamiya, the rest is Duplicolor, with applictations of Prismatic and Metallic intercoat, and topcoated with the Paint Shop clear.

That might have actually been me that said Meijer has Duplicolor, which my Meijer, which opened about a year and a half ago, does carry. I guess it's like how some Walmarts carry kits, other don't.

That's right. There's several of the old Boyd colors that are now in the regular line. They were added as "Trends" colors. IIRC, Turquoise (Pacific Blue), Grape Metallic, Alumacoupe, Yellow, and I think Lime Metallic were all put in that line.

Well, just because it isn't listed on their site doesn't necessarily meant they won't have it in the store. The Farm & Fleet in my area is known for having items not listed on their site in stock. The other farm stores in my area, TSC, Big R, and Rural King, are like that also.

Good point. I suppose if instead of a straight reissue, a modified decals sheet with stylized version of the characters associated with their makeup/costumes, rather than exact likenesses of the members would get around that.

I'm actually somewhat surprised that Round 2 hasn't contacted Kiss about reissuing that one, especially considering that not only have they done a monster truck in the Lindberg line, but the van that it was based on has been reissued as well.

Might have to check into that next time I'm there, especially since I really have no local hobby shops anymore. The one closest to me is a Farm & Fleet, same company, though.

I think we might have found the culprit. I'm using Edge. I'll try it in Chrome, see if that makes a difference. I've had off and on problems with a few other sites, mainly YouTube, using Edge, but they work fine with Chrome. Appreciate the input.

Pretty much what the title says, anyone else having trouble with pages loading from the site? So far, I've only had trouble with 2 topics that will not load, the "Kit bashing-the art of rivet counting" thread by afx, and the "Your thoughts on the Poison Pinto, Rat Vega, and the Vega Mini-Van" by Greg Myers. So far, everything else seems to work fine, but with those 2 I get a "can not load page" message and an otherwise blank screen. I just want to make sure it's not something on my end.

Is this the type filter you're trying to replicate? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-9747?seid=srese2 According to their specs, it's 4.2" long, 1.070" diameter.

Just a little note, most OEM fitment fuel filters, especially on '60s and newer, are solid metal cans, rather than being clear glass/plastic. The clear inline filters you see are pretty much always aftermarket items. Now, for the older sediment bowl type used '50s and earlier, I do seem to recall a tip posted a while back that used an LED to make them.

I have tested the waters on that, if the other Alclad finishes are like their Chrome, use caution with whatever you put over it. enamels and lacquers will lift it, pretty much immediately. Water based acrylics do much better, Tamiya acrylic works very well. Makes for an excellent "color chrome" effect, which was popular in the early '60s. Also, you might check with where you're getting Alclad from, as they do make "candy" topcoats for their system. I have a green and a gunmetal blue candy from them, haven't tried them yet, though.

The big window option, called the "Full View Cab", is intended to eliminate the blind spot at the rear. The 5 window option on the '47-'55.1 trucks served the same purpose. Since it was an extra cost option, it wasn't very common. The only model that had it as standard equipment was the Cameo. Contrary to popular belief, it is not part of the Deluxe Cab option, though most trucks with the big window also have the Deluxe Cab option. The big window option carried over to the '60-'66 and '67-72 body as well, though after '67, it is very rare to see it on pickups.

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1956sctsm/56sctsm0438.html http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1956sctsm/56sctsm0792.html https://www.gmheritagecenter.com/docs/gm-heritage-archive/vehicle-information-kits/Chevrolet-Trucks/1956-Chevrolet-Truck.pdf Check page 147 on that last link.

Beautiful work, sir. For anyone wondering what's going on inside those giant hubs on the front wheels, here's what they look like on the inside.

Here's a little different sort of light commercial die cast from my collection, the Glo Mad. The 1:1 is used by Snap-On as a promotional vehicle. Some shots of the 1:1 taken at the last Goodguys show held at IRP.

What grit are you using to sand the primer? If you're seeing "scratches" in the pearl, it's more likely sanding scratches in the primer coat. You may need to sand out to a finer grit on the primer before you do the pearl. You will want to void sanding the pearl, as it will ruin the pearl effect. If you do sand it, you'll need to give it at least 1 or 2 more coats to bring the effect back.

Lego has Minecraft sets out now, so Minecraft is now both virtual and real life.

I see what you're thinking, but there is a minor flaw in the example you use. The Promo C1500s actually do have a separate hood, and the inner fenders and the molded in hood details are present on them. The bodies were designed to be able to released as both a promo and as a full detail kit. Doing the same using the original '60 kits would be more work.