Longbox55

Another difference from the '55-'57 blocks to the '58 and later are the motor mounts. The '55-'57 have the "Birds Leg" mounts on the front of the bloc, and lack the 3 bolt bosses on the sides of the block found on the '58 and later. The later engines have the provisions for both styles, as the trucks still used the Birds Leg mounts through '59. Most scale engines I've seen lack this detail, though. http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1955/55csm0648.html Figure 63 shows the '55-'57 Passenger mounts.

A 292 is a completely different block. You would be more accurate calling a 261, which used the same basic block as a 235. Neither the 235 or 261 are correct fro Chevrolet after '62, though. The engine from a Trumpeter Nova (also available in resin) would be more accurate.

It's definitely closer than the Blitz. Some of the crossmembers would need to be changed out, and for an LCF, the front would need reworked, plus the rear half would need the axle clearance hump taken out, but otherwise, it does look like it could be made to work. Correct wheels would still need to be acquired, though, as the US spec trucks used a different wheel. I have found a source for them in resin, LSN Enterprises. He sells mostly at shows, so I'm not sure about a website, but his email is LSN.Enterpise@Yahoo.com. I've picked up some resin from him over the years at the shows in Indy, he makes some interesting stuff, and the quality is pretty good. He also makes a Conventional '55-'57 1 1/2 -2 1/2 ton cab.

That strikes me as odd, Steve. I've been using that clear for several years now, on both model builds and 1:1 projects, and have never had a problem with it. A bad batch, perhaps?

3/4 view. 5100 short 5400 long

Unfortunately, no. The engine in that kit is the '55-'62 low water pump full pressure engine, and shares no parts with the '63 ('62 in Chevy II/Nova)and up 194/230/250/292.

The chassis from the AMT Ford Louisville trucks would be a closer start, or scratchbuilding the chassis. To be accurate, you would want to use the front and second crossmembers from the AMT '55 or '57 Cameo/Stepside kit, along with the engine block (all LCF trucks were V8s). The Louisville front suspension and axle along with the single rear axle suspension would be ok. I'll have to some checking, but I do know of a source for the correct wheels as well, or you could use the wheels/tires from an Ertl '57 Chevrolet stake truck die cast. Here's a link to the GM Heritage Center site, which shows all the models and give dimensions. https://www.gmheritagecenter.com/docs/gm-heritage-archive/vehicle-information-kits/Chevrolet-Trucks/1957-Chevrolet-Truck.pdf If you would like, I can scan in the pages for the LCF chassis from the Factory Assembly Manual as well.

The Blitz chassis would need massive reworking to be correct for a Chevrolet, especially for a '55 -'59 body. There really is very little that is similar other maybe the axles.

The problem really isn't the windshield, its the opening in the cab, which is too tall and incorrectly shaped. On the 1:1, the glass does not fit flush to the opening. How it fits in the kit is pretty close on the sides, as the glass does sit inboard of the A pillar. At the top, though, there really should be a header panel with a slight downward angle to it that meets the glass at the top. The top of the glass sits approximately 3" back from the edge of the roof.

My uncle had a '73 or '74 Camper special 4x4 with the 3+3 crew cab option. His was 350 with TH400. we had both a '76 Blazer and a '79 long bed Custom Deluxe, both 4x4s. The Blazer had the special order TH375, which was a special short tailshaft variant of the TH400 for use with the full time transfer case, the '79 had a TH350.

I agree with that, though I would not use the transmission from the truck. A Camper Special would not have a 3 speed column shift transmission. A better option would be to get the TH400 from M.A.D.. The other option, and pretty easy to fudge with in scale, would be to use the transmission from the recently reissued AMT '72 Blazer, which has the correct SM465 4 speed. If you're going to keep it a 4x4, use the transfer case that comes with the kit, or if you want to be more prototypically accurate, modify that case into the much more common NP203 full time case. The Spicer 20 case from the Blazer kit would not be accurate, it isn't even accurate for the Blazer kit (the Spicer 20 case was 6 cylinder only).

If you can find one, AAM also made a resin of a panel in that body style. IIRC, it might have been a '60.

Ertl did something similar with their 1/18 scale version (this was during the RC@ days, not long before they got closed up) with both the AG and TLBT versions of the car. While the correct flip nose hood and front axle are present, the engine in both versions is a W head 348/409 with a somewhat awkward looking tunnel ram intake. There is also a Hot Wheels 1/64 scale version, back when they were doing their high end cars, that came in a 3 car set with the Milner Deuce. It is also done with a "free interpretation", having a regular hood and a blown 409. That particular version has been reissued individually a few time during the run of that line of Hot Wheels, with no changes but color/paint scheme. They did not do a TLBT version of it, though.

A few corrections. The rear bumper is not a "station wagon" bumper. The guards were an option. On the Graffiti car, they did not swap the engine. Both of the cars used in TLBT have big blocks, the primary car (which is still in TLBT form) has an LS6 454, the AG car, which was the secondary unit used for the racing scenes, has an L88 427. Both cars still have the engines in them from TLBT.

Those are called Artillery Wheels. They were never stock on those trucks, but do look god on them. Not sure what hubcap you have in mind, but the Revell '37 Ford pickup and panel kits both have those wheels.

The "32" on the fender badge is the giveaway. The model 32, or for the full model number in this case, 3204, is the long bed 1/2 ton. A factory short bed would say "31" on the badge.

The Apache is a '59, and was originally an 8' bed long 1/2 ton.

I'll agree with you on the Alumilite silicone that comes in the kits. I rarely use it myself. I primarily use their High Strength 3 silicone, which is a soft pink rubber. Much easier to work with.

I'm going to perfectly honest, as I have made molds both with household materials and mold making specific materials, you'll be well ahead by going with the materials that are for making molds. While you can make relatively simple molds using household or automotive RTV, it's a tricky process that takes time and patience. The mold failure rate is also very high, as those types of RTV tend to either stick to the part being molded, r do not properly cure due to the thickness required to make a good mold. That said, I would really only suggest using that type RTV for very small molds, such as scripts or lenses that do not require much thickness. You also do have to have a good mold release to prevent it from sticking, but also that will allow you to apply the RTV without it sliding off. It can be tricky to do. For what you're wanting to do, however, I would suggest getting a small mold making kit. Hobby Lobby has them, and with the coupon, they're not to pricey. Using the kit, you'll be able to do a 2 part mold, and get all of the details and complex shapes without too much trouble. I would also suggest that you check out the assorted videos on YouTube. The company that made the top one Brian posted, Brick In The Yard, as several good videos for resin casting and mold making, though much of what they have is geared more towards effects makeup and props than model building. Alumalite and Smooth On both have good videos as well.

When I took the measurements, I used a brake micrometer, which has pointed contact surfaces.

You're right, Ace. Just measured the body for that kit, came up with .045" at the thinnest part, and .072" at the thickest, with an average of .052" for the bulk of the body.

I agree with Tom, only difference is that I also use Plastruct in addition to Evergreen. Plastruct also has odds and ends packages.

I found an NOS can of Jade Green in that style can at a Benjamin Franklin store in Covington Indiana back in the mid '90s. Still have it, unopened.

Just from what I can tell, the only one that can be 100% identified is Henry Ford. The figure with the mustache does have some resemblance to Firestone, particularly how he appeared around 1910, but it's a little stocky compared to his actual build. The third figure, I'm not sure. The facial features just don't look right.

1971 Chevrolet C20, Huggar Orange and white w/black interior. My Dad had bought the truck about a month or so before I was born. He had that truck until '78, when he decided he wanted a 4x4. Sold it to my uncle in Georgia, and he traded it for a '64 Chevelle Super Sport. To my knowledge, the body shop he traded it to still has it.