Longbox55

Some additions; The actual split is '55, the '54 is identical to the '53 full pressure block used with Powerglide equipped cars other than the rocker cover. The '55-'62 block, other than a handful of Corvettes built in early '55 and the '55 1rst Series trucks, is completely different from the '54 and earlier blocks. http://pugetsoundvintagechevrolet.org/Programs/6 cylinder engines with photos.pdf

That's correct. It should also be of note that from '55-'66, the orange paint was used on Passenger engines only. Truck engines were different colors depending on year and application, with gray and green being the most common in light trucks. Also, not all Passenger engines were orange. In '56, some Passenger 265s were red, rather than orange, and in '57, the 265 in Passenger were chartreuse. http://www.1954advance-design.com/Web images/PPIP/PPIP-1912-1966-EngineColors.html

The top one, part # GM6 is a '37-'53 (most likely a '37-'47 going by the transmission that's molded to it) 216, the bottom one, part number CI6 is a '55-'62 235, and looks to be repop of the AMT '60 Chevy pickup engine.

Just a note for the sake of accuracy, especially for Replica Stock; Most OEM battery cables are black for both positive and negative, with either a red boot /plastic cover (top post) or red terminal end (side post) to denote which is the positive on late model cars. In addition, many older cars used a bare braided strap for the negative instead of an insulated cable.

Project X as it appears now. This is the most well known version, from the movie Hollywood Knights, which is also it appeared through most of the '70s and '80s. This during its sting as a back halved prod street car back in the late '80s I'm having a hard time finding good pictures of it from the early years ('65-'77), I'll have to check my personal archives to see if I still have the issue of Popular Hotrodding that has the history of the car, including early pics from when they first got it. IIRC, it was a salmon colored 283 Powerglide car originally.

Revell's new tool Bel Air would be the closest to start with. It will have to be de-trimmed down to a 210, though, depending on which version of it you're wanting to build (it currently does have Bel Air trim on it).

What kind of paint did you use? Different paints work better with different stripping agents.

I just used water, and it worked really well. This was after letting the body soak in the degreaser for a day. I did use the heat function that the HF version I posted the link to has, it seemed to help as well. Just be careful with how hot you let it get. I was using with a resin JF body, and it got a bit "wobbley" after a few cycles. I will admit to having used degreaser in the ultrasonic cleaner with decent results, but I do not suggest it, as it can be corrosive to the electronics. It won't hurt the tub, as it is stainless steel.

Having a compressor with a tank is more of a personal preference. I like having one with a tank for less duty cycle on the compressor.

There's nothing wrong with the HF setup, other than perhaps the lack of a tank for the compressor. I use them myself without any problems, usually spraying enamels and lacquers.

Correct me if I'm mistaken, but are mixing the paint in the cup/bottle for the airbrush itself? If so, that might be part of the problem, as you may be getting ticker paint that's not properly reduced in the bottom of the cup. It is always best to mix your paint in a separate container, then transfer to the cup/bottle for the airbrush itself. Dose cups/Epoxy missing cups work very well for that.

I agree. I've managed to get the John Deere tractor and backhoe, and the Massey 1155, plus the Deere and Massey wagons. I came across the Sprit of '76 Massey at a show, but it was a little more than I had to spend at the time. The IH is getting really hard to find, and is pricey when you do find it. It does make me wonder who has the molds, if Ertl/Takara-Tomy has them or if they're in Round 2s inventory.

Unfortunately, Ertl die cast farm tractors do not come in 1/24 or 1/25 scale. But measuring things like Ace suggested, and perhaps sickig with the 1/32 scale tractors they offer, one could probably come up with something usable. In addition, there are a few companies that do make 1/24 and 1/24 scale farm and construction equipment, Scale Models has a few, and the mentioned Kubota die cast as well. I'm not really sure why Ertl (now owned by Takara-Tomy) does not produce their die cast in 1/24-1/25 scale, considering that they do produce many die cast trucks with farm related paint schemes. Only thing I can think of is that 1/16 is the traditional scale for toy farm equipment, with 1/32 and 1/64 working easily off that scale for smaller versions.

Thanks for the correction. I wasn't 100% sure.

Yes, that's exactly what it is, a copied version of Bondic.

Took a look myself on the Old Car Manual Project, '77 was the last year for those caps.

If you want an accurate LFC without having to do a lot of work, there are some available in resin. The interior and window glass from the Cameo will be fine for that, as will the engine. The correct transmission can be found in an MPC '67-'72 Chevy truck kit, but the one in a Blitz will be ok, too. A conventional would be easier if you want to build your own cab, as the main difference is the width of the fenders and the larger truck have a different grille. The grille, as well as a resin conversion conventional large truck cab and the correct wheels are available in resin from the source I posted earlier.

That engine would be 100% incorrect.

If you want to save yourself a bit of scrubbing, after soaking in the degreaser to get the paint loose, give it a few rounds in an ultrasonic cleaner. That will loosen and remove the paint, even in the panel lines. http://www.harborfreight.com/25-liter-ultrasonic-cleaner-95563.html

The correct 6 cylinder can be found in the Trumpeter Nova, plus a few resin sources.

The steel wheels in those vans are also correct for the trucks, too. The hubcaps are only correct up to '77, maybe '78.

While most were dealer installed, the filter could be had as a factory installed option, RPO 237. That filter is actually a much better filter than one would think. Since it's a bypass style, the filter media has a much smaller micron filtration than the later full flow filtration, and does catch much more contaminants than the full flow versions do.

This was done using Woodland Scenics earth ground cover and their assorted earth tone acylics.

The Cameo is too short to us as is, but could be altered using the manual pics I posted. If you're not concerned with what's underneath, a Blitz chassis would do as a roller, but it would be nowhere close to accurate for a full detail.