Longbox55

I tried one of their UV cure "sun activated" putties about 20 years ago. Was not really impressed with it, never seemed to cure properly. However, I will concede that some of the issues with it may have been on my end, a combination of insufficient UV exposure to allow a full cure, my own (at the time) lack of experience with bodywork (this was on a 1:1 body panel), and definitely some severe impatience with allowing a full cure. Knowing what I know now, and having worked with some other UV cure products (Bondic), if I were to try the UV cure putty again, I would use a UV lamp instead of relying on the sun.

Another option, if you need something to replicate heavier cable, is nylon surveyors twine. Any hardware store should have it. Get it in white, and paint it with Metalizer . Burnt Iron works great for an old weathered look.

The Bricklin could be the first 1/25 scale kit with scale accurate body panel thickness!

I don't think they are still around, or at least not with the same names. I'll have to check with the Historical Society to see for sure (I have some friends involved with that). It is somewhat funny that you mention Dick Van Dyke, he was actually in town over the weekend. They're planning to preserve the house he grew up in, and he was here for the dedication, plus he did some performance work with the local theater group.

First big car show of the year locally, held in conjunction with the Arts in the Park in Lincoln Park in Danville Illinois. The thunderstorms held off until today (It's storming here right now, actually) unlike the last couple of year, so we had a very good turnout, 128 vehicles total. http://s281.photobucket.com/user/Longbox55/slideshow/Art on Wheels 2016

Depends on what year Terex. Some years of Terex were a very bright lime green, mostly through the '70s and '80s.

Highway Yellow would be the standard color on any JD Industrial equipment made after 1954 or so. Prior to that, JD Industrials were painted orange. From what I understand, an Industrial could be ordered in other colors for an extra cost, and I have seen some later Industrials in orange as well as OSHA Green. Most of those were roadside mowing units, rather than backhoes, though. Something that might confuse things, though, is that backhoe equipment can be ordered for Agricultural tractors, which would be the traditional Green/Yellow. There are also some Industrial line tractors that differ very little from their Agricultural kin. In the case of the 310, though, it is strictly an Industrial, with no Agricultural equivalent.

I would advise some caution with that. I've used it on a few different bodies I had to strip, and have found that it can soften the plastic in some cases. I mainly had issues with newer Revell-Monogram kits (the hood on the GMC snowplow kit to be exact) softening when soaked in IPA. Found the issue when I scrubbed the hood with a soft nylon brush, which gouged the hood. So far, I haven't had any issues with other brands of plastic, and it hasn't caused any issues with soft parts from action figures. I'm not saying don't use it, only to be careful with scrubbing.

Can't say I've heard anything myself. When I was in Indy a few weeks ago, it seemed the 2 hobby shops I went to (HobbytownUSA in Greenwood, Indiana and Hobbies 'N History in Lebanon,, Indiana) were both well stocked on it. I personally haven't used it since the last time it went off the market, and I switched to Tamiya Extra Thin.

http://www.madmodeling.com/store/ccp0-prodshow/1978headgrille.html

Agreed. On the base coats, while gold and silver are generally considered the "traditional" base colors for a candy (gold warms the final color, silver cools it), you are not limited to those choices. Pearls, especially pearl white, works excellent as a candy base. I've seen other colors used as well, including a stunning candy red build that use a lime green pearl of all things as the base. Had it not been for the builder posting pics of it in progress, one would never believe it was actually green under the red.

There's actually several sources for small quantities of candy pants, in many cases, you can even get it pre-reduced ready to spray. Most of them sell the same brand of paint, House of Kolor, though there are other brands as well. Black Gold http://www.blackgoldweb.com/ , TPC Global http://www.tcpglobal.com/Custom-Paint/House-of-Kolor/, and Coast Airbrush http://www.coastairbrush.com/categories.asp?cat=11 are some of the sources for it, These are the same paints as used on 1:1 cars. Other sources for a candy type paint would be to use any transparent color, such as the colors from Tamiya, plus Testors does have a line of transparent colors in there spray line (those can be tricky to work with, though). One can also use the Testors metallic paints (bottle) and simply just let the metallic particles settle out of it. I have done that myself, and it does work well. As far as tips for spraying it, the best tips would be to spray all the parts that are the same color the same time, spray them with the same pattern, and apply the same number of coats.

I dunno, I've seen those V8 Studes run the hill at Newport. Even in stock for, they're plenty fast, running low 18 to 20 flat on an 1500 ft uphill course. Those weren't even the performace models, just 2 bbl 250 inch version. The '53 coupe was the one that turned that low 18 second run, and the 20 flat was a 3/4 ton truck. The flatheads, which the Lions club that puts the event on turn a blind eye to modifications (they're supposed to be "stock") couldn't turn anywhere close to those times.

Good choice. IIRC, it's a Desoto Firedome. Had you gone with the Chevy 6 (an engine I'm extremely familiar with), the AMT '51 Bel Air come with the Wayne/Fisher crossflow head, which is virtually impossible to find in the 1:1 world. Very few were made, the GMC version, while still extremely rare, is more common.

Here's one that's way off the wall, if you're willing to go this direction, a Nissan inline engine. Unfortunately, the only really good Nissan inline 6 is in the Tamiya '71 GT-R (or at least that I know of), and you might get lots of flak for putting a Japanese engine in a hot rod. However, it is something that has been done in 1:1, by Frank Oddo (yes, THAT Frank Oddo) of all people. Street Rodder built a Model A back in the mid '70s using the engine and drivetrain from a '76 Nissan pickup called the DSR-76.

They sure are. I was actually surprised that I didn't see anything like that about Kurt Busch's win at Pocono, which was won on mileage. Then this weekend, they're running Michigan, which is well known for being a fuel mileage track.

If you really want to go different, because almost everything and anything has ben used in them you could go with a Studebaker. Use the R4 setup from the AMT Avanti kit.

It's worth noting that this only applies to Passenger car V8s. Truck engines and 6 cylinder Chevrolets prior to '66 were not necessarily orange. http://1954advance-design.com/Web images/PPIP/PPIP-1912-1966-EngineColors.html

The AMT and SMP '60-'66 Chevrolets were longbed 1/2 tons (3/4 ton uses the same wheelbase). The beds do not directly interchange with the Revell kit, though, as the bed is 1/4" wider on the older kits and it does have s slightly different shape at the lower part of the bedsides from the cab. It's nothing that can't be worked with, though. The frame, however, is a different story. The frames on those its are very similar to the AMP/MPC '67-'72 Chevy/GMC kits, wit a ll the details molded to the frame. They also have the torsion bar front suspension, which is only correct for '60-'62. Lengthening the Revell frame would be the better option. Here's a link to a page with all the body and wheelbase dimensions. https://www.gmheritagecenter.com/docs/gm-heritage-archive/vehicle-information-kits/Chevrolet-Trucks/1964-Chevrolet-Truck.pdf

https://youtu.be/InXaSfYqUeI This might work so that you can at least decant the paint.

Anyone who claims that Rossi didn't deserve the win probably didn't actually watch the race!

Interesting project. You will be looking at lots of alterations to the frame, as the 4x4 didn't use the same frame as the 2wd due to the differences in suspension systems. The Revell '64/65/66 would give a closer frame as far as crossmembers go. .

That's a pretty cool site, Harry! Definitely bookmarking that one. I even found some information I was looking for, the dimensions of the 1914 Indiana plate.

In addition, there was also a 265/162 (2-barrel) base V8, which is identified by its chartreuse yellow color instead of the red-orange of the other V8s. This engine, other than color, is essentially the same as the engine found in the 1/2 through 1 1/2 ton trucks.

That's certainly a very nice truck, with some interesting options (V8, Power Steering, Overdrive, Radio), but they're fibbing a bit on it being "unrestored". I spotted a few things that point to it having had a restoration at one point at least in its life. The bed floor and the fender badges are 2 things that stand out to me right away. The floor should be white with that color combination (Cameo was the exception to the flat black floor), ad should at least show some signs of being painted. The fender badges are swapped side to side, an indication to doghouse has been apart and repainted. The lack of general wear and tear on the interior also indicate a possible older restoration. These trucks are something I'm very familiar with, this one is my daily driver. http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk203/Longbox55/013-1.jpg