Longbox55

Some clarification on the options; The Chrome option is for the front bumper and hubcaps, plus optional rear bumper on Pickup models (excluding 4x4). The Anodized aluminum grille is part of the Custom Appearance option, which also includes the Bright windshield molding, cab trim plate, Steering wheel with chrome horn ring, chrome dash knobs, and a 2 tome interior with a portion of the door panels painted Off White. The 2 toning would be a separate option from the Custom Appearance package, but most trucks with that package are 2 toned. On the interior, the way the kit is done, it has the upscale interior. The second armrest was an option, only the drivers side was standard. The seat is correct, a vinyl bench was the only option, with the difference being the pattern as far as visuals. Scale Motorsport has a very close decal sheet to get the appropriate pattern. On the window, the kit is tooled with the Full View window, the standard window is considerably smaller. It was a separate option from the Custom Appearance option, and was RPO A10.

To be honest, about the only usable parts for an accurate '60-'66 4x4 from the AMT '72 Blazer would be the axles and the rear springs, perhaps the steering box as well. Even then, there are better axles out there, as the axles in the Blazer kit are somewhat undersized. The recently released Deserter GMC has much better axles. There were major suspension changes made on the 4x4s from the '66 and earlier compared to the '67 and later, primarily in the front suspension. The earlier trucks used a normal arched spring, which lead to a rather high ride height (required to allow for transfer case clearance). The later trucks used a reverse arched spring, which lowered the ride height considerably. This was also possible due to the adoption of the NP205 (some Blazers used a Spicer transfer case, which the AMT kit has) which did not require the extra clearance. The AMT Blazer also has some issues with the chassis, it's too narrow compared to the 1:1. Modifying the original frame would be better. You're pretty much on your own for the transfer case, transmission, and engine, though there are ways around some of it. The transfer case can be replicated with some alteration to an AMT USA 1 transfer case. The transmission gets a little trickier, the only kit version of it I'm aware of is in the MPC '68-'72 Chevrolet trucks. You'll most likely have to scratch build the engine, as there are no kit sources or resin sources I know of for the GMC V6.

That's not a small window cab. While the window is definitely too small for the large window cab, it's way too large to be the small window cab.

#1 The engine should be Gray, specifically, Chevrolet Gray, which is a blueish gray. Battleship Gray is a close match. Orange engines were Passenger car only. Trucks did not get Orange engines until '67. #2, As others have stated, wide whites were gone by '64. However, a narrow band whitewall was available (RPO P92 and R51). #3 The Chrome option, RPO V37, is a separate option from the Custom Appearance option RPO Z61, and the Side Trim Molding, RPO B98 (Fleetside only), is a separate option from those. The kit is inaccurate in having RPO V37 and Z61 but does not have the cab trim on the B pillar. That trim piece can be found in the MCG photoetch kit for the AMT '60 Chevrolet truck. The absence of the side trim is not inaccurate, as it was a separate option. #4 The grille surround is Off White on all models except White trucks, which use the same shade of white as the rest of the truck. This is the same regardless of standard off white (white on white trucks) or anodized aluminum grille.

Right now, it's sitting on my Large Scale section in my stash waiting for its turn to get built.

Modelhaus used to put stripping recommendations in theirs. Superclean was their suggested stripping agent.

The steering linkage is located on the same tree as the chassis, next to the stabilizer bar.

On the steering linkage, it is clearly visible in the pix that Chad posted, as is the rack and pinion.

Yes, it does. The cans I've used of it were a little more like their old Glosscote, as it left a glossy finish. Agreed on the thin coats. I don't have to ask how you know, I did the same thing . Another tip, black seems to "crack" when the ink dries. Thin lines or lettering doesn't do it so bad, but large black areas do. To help avoid this, try making large black areas either a very dark blue or a very dark gray. I know this may sound weird, but that slight shift in color to a blue or gray seems to eliminate the cracking issue.

Testors makes a sealer for their paper, as do several other companies. You can also use clear lacquer to seal them.

I do agree with you 100%. Staying within a system of known compatible products is the best way to avoid problems, especially if you're fairly new to the painting process.

Yes, it does. I've used the Tamiya on the Testors a few time myself. Duplicolor Paint Shop and Perfect Match clears also work very well with both Tamiya and Testors lacquers.

That particular line is a base/clear system, just like their 1:1 counterparts. They have a clear in that line, plus the clear from their One Coat also works well.

x3

It will work, but definitely not in the ratios you're thinking. Just like Richard said, one drop at a time. Candy paint is really nothing more than toner in a clear carrier with no solids in it like regular paint colors. You will not get a candy effect doing this, though, only a change in the shade of the color. Go slow, mix up a test batch to check if the color is what you're after, possibly even do a spray test on a spoon to make sure it's really what you're after. I don't have any pics of it, but I have done this myself to make a pale green pearl by adding green candy to a pearl white. It worked just fine.

Another option is Bondic, which is a UV cure product. Since it doesn't cure until you expose it to UV from the led lamp that comes with it, you get the positioning where you want it before you set it.

Comparison between the old Revell '56 and the new Foose FD100

Pretty much anything you could want to know about a stock '57 Chevy. https://www.gmheritagecenter.com/docs/gm-heritage-archive/vehicle-information-kits/Chevrolet/1957-Chevrolet.pdf

That has been ,y experience as well. The 91% alcohol will take the Tamiya spray off within a few minutes, leaving pretty much bare plastic.

Their site still seems to be up, but I did see posts on a Yelp site that matches up with what you're saying, Brad. doesn't surprise me, though. Last time I had any dealings with Centerline, they cost the shop I was working at a $1300 wheel/tire sale because they never shipped the wheels. They weren't even an odd fitment, just the regular Centerline wheel for a '67 Dodge Dart. They claimed they only had 2 on hand, and had to wait for 50 orders before they would make the other 2 needed. By the time they called us to say that they had them ready and were shipping them, the customer had cancelled the order. Our shop wasn't the only one in the company that had issues with them, ended up costing them a rather large contract due to poor customer service.

Purple Power will strip chrome just fine.

Superclean is stronger than Purple Power, but both will do the job. If all you're wanting to do with is strip model cars, go for the Purple Power. If you're planning to use it for the intended purpose, degreasing/concrete cleaning, as well, then get the Superclean or better yet, Zep Purple degreaser. Both are far superior degreasers than Purple Power.

The Deserter would be good for a non stock 4x4 conversion. However, for a correct to stock 4x4, about the only usable parts would be the axles, the rest would be inaccurate.

The inline 6 from the AMT donor kit would be very accurate for a working truck from that time period, as many of those trucks were equipped with that engine in 1:1. A smallblock V8 would also be ok. In either case, you would want to consider a different transmission, as the 3 speed found in both kits would be too light for tow truck duty. On the 1:1, the popular choice for that type of truck would be the SM420 4 speed. Unfortunately, the only scale version I know of for that transmission was the '68-'72 MPC Chevrolet truck kits. It should be easy to scratchbuild one, though. The V6 mentioned was a GMC only engine is light trucks, and there is no scale version of it available. https://www.gmheritagecenter.com/docs/gm-heritage-archive/vehicle-information-kits/Chevrolet-Trucks/1960-Chevrolet-Truck.pdf

I have one in my collection (not the SWAT version, though), and agree.