Longbox55

From what I understand, the wagon is going to be in it, just not as a main vehicle. Here's the new version that's in the movie.

If it's a vintage Corvette convertible, I would think it would more likely be an MPC, rather than an AMT.http://public.fotki.com/drasticplasticsmcc/mkiba-build-under-c/mpc-instructions/automotive-cars--pi/chevrolet/1971-1980/ As far as I know the only AMT Corvette convertible from the era is the one they did off the new tool '70-72 Corvette in the early '90s. They did a stock and a street machine version. mikemodeler is correct, '75 was the last year for a factory Corvette convertible until the '86 model year.

I'm not really sure what to think either.

Interesting article. However, they did make a bit of a mistake as to who made the first all steel wagon and first 2 door wagon. The Chevrolet Suburban predates the Jeep by 10 years.

https://www.gmheritagecenter.com/gm-heritage-archive/vehicle-information-kits.html

I find it amusing that the fellow who made that video is telling people that you can use for things it clearly says not to use it for.

I don't think solvents would be the issue. I've seen similar sprayers, even used one once, they're made to be used with brake and carburetor cleaners, which are very hot solvents. some of the ingredients in those are the same as what's in plastic cements. I would be more inclined to think the problem with using paints in them would be a clogging issue from the solids that are in the paint.

Thanks for the info Don. I was pretty sure it wasn't an SMP, but didn't know who else made promos of Chevrolets during that time period. I can't find any markings on this one, but I have not attempted to disassemble it. It does have a metal chassis plate, and the front axle has a gear on it, so I would think that it was offered as a friction variant as well. It does still have some of the silver paint on the bumpers. even as warped as it is, I can't really complain. Only gave $6 for it at the HMCA show about a year ago. I'll keep the casting idea in mind. For right now, though, I'm going to give it nice home on my display shelf, warped or not.

Well, this saved me from asking the same question. I have a warped '57 Chevy wagon of unknown manufacture that's warped pretty bad. I was hoping I could straighten it out, if only to pop a mold off the body.

Interesting. Any reason you waited so far apart between coats? I usually recoat about 20-25 minute between coats, never had a problem.

What kit are you working with?

The TRUs in my area haven't had model kits in many years, at least 25 years at the one closest to me. Now, when it was still Childrens Palace, they had a model selection that would put most hobby shops to shame these days.

Not to make this thread go way off course or start any arguments, but I did happen to get a chance to talk to a friend who worked in the plastic injection molding industry yesterday, and I asked him his thoughts on the subject of "bleeding". He basically told me the same thing that Snake has been saying. After discussing it, it does make sense. What we came up with is not so much the solvents making the pigments come out of the paint, but rather the solvents breaking down the primer coats, allowing the color of the plastic to show through. In the case of the example of what happened to me, I was using a pretty stout solvent, which I suspect not only broke down the primer, but also softened the plastic to a degree. I will admit, I did not strip that one to refinish, I simply let it finish curing, sanded it smooth, reprimed and repainted. So it's entirely possible there was some crazing under that mess of a formerly pearl white turned orangey-red that was on it. all I can say, is that to this day, I refuse to use acetone as a solvent for reducing paint for plastic, and have not used fingernail polish for a finish either. On the Tamiya and Testors clears, I have not seen any cracking myself, but have seen pics from reports of it happening. Only thing I can think of perhaps some sort on incompatability or maybe a bad batch.

I find it amusing that Tower Hobbies would get misinformation about a Revell kit, they're both owned by the same parent company. Not saying that internal message errors can't happen, just find it amusing.

Did a quick search, came up with lots of good pics of what the axle and transfer case look like, including early and late versions.http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=chevrolet+napco+4x4+axle&FORM=HDRSC2

As far as an on topic answer, I've used both the Wet Look and the Tamiya clears, and find that they work almost identical for me. Never had a problem with either.

Here's a good one for paint color chips. Particularly GM. http://historicalcolorlibrary.axaltacs.com/hcl/servlet/com.dpc.hcl.search.HclSearchServlet?Operation=102&carRegion=1&carType=GM In addition to the regular colors, it also has interior color chips, plus mid year and seasonal colors not mentioned on other sites/sources.

No problem, Mike. I was pretty sure that was the site you meant. I use pretty regular myself.

http://www.oldcarmanualproject.com/ http://www.sweptlinetruck.com/ http://www.xframechevy.com/

While I do not have one of the '54 Hudsons, I have seen the '71 F100 which has the same type of texture on the body. It doesn't look like it will be an issue, unless you don't paint it.

You're pretty much going to be stuck making your own parts for the conversion, but I can help you by listing sources for some of the components that would be suitable. Axles; The axle for the front for the later 55 through '59s can be made from the rear axle from the '55 and '57 kit. The axle from the '60 pickup would also be suitable. You'll need to move the center section to the right side, similar to the later GM and Dodge 4x4s. For the axle ends, you'll need the steering knuckles from the Revell Showboat dragster, as they were closed knuckle. The tie rod would go on the backside of the axle, with an offset where it passes the 3rd member. Stock springs and shocks will be fine for the suspension. Rear suspension will require a lift block, 7 scale inches. Transfer case: In scale, the best source for a reasonably close transfer case will be the AMT 1/25 scale USA-1 monster truck. It's not perfect, but it is close for the Spicer 23 transfer case used. Another source would be the M2 1/24 diecast GMC. Transmission: This one can be a little tricky, as the 4x4s only came with the SM420 4 speed. The only reasonably accurate version of this transmission can be found in the AMT '67 and MPC '68-'72 Chevrolet trucks. The parking brake will have to be removed for a 1/2 ton version. Engine; the AMT '60 Chevrolet pickup has the correct 6 cylinder engine. There was no option on factory built Chevrolet 4x4s. Note, some of this information is specific to Chevrolet only, mainly the engine and transmission options. The GMC used a different rear axle, and was available with the Hydramatic 4 speed and the Pontiac V8.

That's actually what I have in mind, have a core that is the inside diameter of the hose I'm replicating, then shrink the tube to the core. I've used a similar method on other scale projects with success.

But yet it did. Which I had pix of it, but that was about 25 years ago that I did that. Maybe it wasn't so much pulling the color out of the plastic so much as the solvent leached the paint into the plastic. Whatever it did, it looked terrible.

I never has that problem with a clear, but I did have a similar problem with red plastic on a build used fingernail polish on. The kit was the Monogram '56 Corvette. The kit was primed with Derusto brand primer (I don't think it's available anymore), which I had never had a problem with before. The color was going to be pearl white, which at the time I could only get it was in fingernail polish. After I airbrushed it on, it looked ok, but when I went to lay down the top color (it was to be a 2 tone, dark blue on top, pearl white on bottom), the white part was an nasty orangeish-red color. Ended up going ahead and spraying the blue, the topcoated the white parts with a different color. Only thing I can think happened was the solvent I used was too hot, and leached the color through. IIRC, I think I used an acetone based solvent.