Longbox55

The Hot Rod version of the '56 was pretty bad. I had one of those, and have an unbuilt '56 from the '70s (it has a candy green car on the box art). Both seemed to be warped about the same.

But that would be braking the 3 Rule Of Racin'! Rule #1; Everybody Cheats Rule #2; It isn't cheating unless you get caught Rule ##; If you're not cheating, you're not racing Oh, and back on topic, I will be getting at least one of these kits. Partly because I'm a big fan of BDR (I even got to meet him at the World Of Wheels show at the Hoosier Dome back in 2000), but also because I'm a big fan of the old Revell open everything kits. I've built the '57 coupe and Nomad, as well as the '55 and '56, plus several of the other kits. Got hooked on them back during the Hot Rod, Demons, and Saints lines Revell ran back in the '80s. I didn't think the '57 was so bad, even the Nomad was ok compared to the '56 (I have yet to see the '56 without a warped body).

In other words, they were cheating. They Hydramatic was never used in any Chevrolet car, they only had the SM318, SM319, Powerglide, or starting in '57, the Turboglide. With the Handyman/Sedan Delivery (same basic vehicle), they would register them as "trucks" since they were commercial vehicles. In a Chevrolet truck, you could get a Hydramatic, though only with the 235 6 cylinder ot the 265 V8 (the 283 was not available until you got into the 2 ton trucks in '57). The old tool SWC Swindler has one the nicest Hydramatics I've seen, with a correct separate linkage. There are a few other Revell kits from the era that also use that particular tooling as well.

Agreed. That's what was used on the Scout I posted, along with a healthy dose of model railroad turf for texture.

This is a bit of overkill, but I used the same technique described earlier in the thread to do the wiper tracks on my fresh from the mud bog Scout.

The SS/RS was available in all 3 years of the first generation Camaro.

Cool builds. I have something similar in the works with one of those monster truck Dodges, but I'm going stock 4x4 with mine. I do have one suggestion for the 2wd longbed, you might look into lowering the rear a little bit. For whatever reason, the LRE seems to only have the 4x4 rear springs, which make the rear sit up a bit too high. It's not a hard alteration, all you would need to do is take a little out of the blocks on the bottom of the springs. Cut them off flush with the spring, the section the top of it off to the top of the arch where the axle seats in. That'll it it at the right height. I did that on an LRE I converted to a contractors trucks, made a huge difference in the stance.

4 or 5.1(glycol base) will work, they are chemically similar to DOT3, the main difference being the higher boiling point. I don't know if they have it over in Europe, but do not use DOT 5. That one is a silicone based fluid, it will not strip paint.

You're not seeing things, it's definitely lighter.

Alrighty-then!

Here's a couple of pics of a Dirty Donnie that was cleared with Paint Shop clear, as well as having the Prism Metalflake and Metallic intercoats as well. The top and bottom were painted with Duplicolor Color Match from a spray can, the middle color is Tamiya Maroon lacquer, also from a spray can. The base under it is Duplicolor Filler Primer. The primer was sanded out to 8000 with a polishing kit, and the clear was also sanded out to 12000, the buffed with polishing compound. Very little polishing was required.

Harry, I managed to get it to work from my Photobucket , however, I do have a question about how I did it. Seems if I click on the "BB Code Mode" button in the top left corner of the reply box, it'll let me post pix and links. Is this a proper way to do it? And just what does that button do (me no computor savvy) ?

I've been having the same problem, not only with pics, but also with quoting other posts and posting links to other sites.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/classifieds/showfull.php?product=7361&bigimage=Shelburn_Fire_Truck_016.jpg http://media.collectorcarpricetracker.com/auction_data/2011/5/15/110685368105/22.jpg http://media.collectorcarpricetracker.com/auction_data/2011/5/15/110685368105/23.jpg The first one is a '61 348, the other two are a '63 409, but both engines were painted the same color during their use, except for 1964, when some 348s were painted either orange or tan, and in 1965 the 409 had silver rocker covers.

I'll see what I can find. Seems most of what can be found of that era truck either has had the engines replaced, or they had 6 cylinder or small block engines in them.

There were actually 3 cars built for Two Lane Blacktop, one with a 454 (primary car), the other has a 427 (secondary car). The third car was essentially just a body shell, and was only used for interior shots. The primary car is the one seen in most exterior shots, and is still in the same condition as when the movie was shot. The secondary car was mainly used for the race scenes (it was supposedly the faster of the two), and is the one that got converted to the American Graffiti Falfa car. It is currently in New Jersey, and had been turned into a street machine before being restored back to the American Graffiti specs. The third car was also used in American Graffiti, as the crash car for the Paradise Road scene.

The correct color for the '60/'61 Truck 348 is Gray, not Orange. The Orange 348s were Passenger engines.

I have used it, works very well and shoots rather nicely through a regular airbrush with no additional thinning. I usually shoot at about 12 psi. I had posted a thread about the clear, as well as the Prism Multicolor and Metallic intercoat clears a while back. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=67967

To add to that; Most companies offered 3 bed lengths, with the heavier load capacity trucks having longer beds. 1/2 tons used the shortest beds, 3/4 tons in the middle, 1 tons had the longest. There wear also a few 1 1/2 tons that have an even longer bed that the 1 tons. With GM, the sizes were 6 1/2' (1/2 ton), 7 1/2' (3/4 ton and GMC 1/2 ton to early '57, 1/2 long bed Chevrolet '55-early '57), 8' (1/2 and 3/4 ton mid '57 and later), 8 1/2' (/34 ton and 1 ton Fleetside/Wideside '68-'72), and 9' (1 ton Stepside/Fenderside to '72). GM did also offer a 10' "Express" model on the 1 1/2 ton chassis in the mid '30s. It should be noted, during some of the years in the late '30s/early '40s, the GMC 1/2 tons had a longer bed that the Chevrolet, usually a 7'. I would have to check to makes of what years had the longer beds. On the topic at hand, something to watch for on shortening the '72 bed is the character line on the bedsides. It does have a taper to it, the character line drops a bit as it gets to the rear of the bed.

I recently tried the Dawn Power Dissolver, so far, I'm not really impressed. Tried it to strip chrome from a Revell '99 Silverado, didn't even budge it.

If you can find it, Zepp Purple Degreaser works much better than the other lye based degreasers on the market. I get mine from the local Menards. Advance Auto also stocks it, but you'll have to ask for it They don't stock it with the "regular guy of the street" cleaners, it's in the back with the Commercial Sales products. I won't say for all resin, but Superclean and Zepp are both safe to use with Modelhaus castings. Superclean is even mentioned on their site as the preferred stripper.

http://youtu.be/8MZSsgTwSTI

Fair warning; The Revell Ford Country Squire Wagon commands top dollar prices. Last time I priced one, the vendor was asking $400 for it. Not really worth it for just the figure. I would look for a resin cast copy, like Jarius stated. I would think someone would have done one.

Could be from Mad Max Fury Road, the new one they're working on now. Should be out sometime later this summer from what I've read.

Looks good. I notice the seats look much better in paint and installed than they did still on the trees in bare plastic. I should be getting mine soon, looking forward to it.