Longbox55

There's a 1:1 truck site I'm on (http://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/) that has a setup similar to that, with a "General Truck Talk" section (Pre-1973 Chevrolet/GMC Trucks) and a section called 'The Greasy Spoon" for off topic discussion, as well as any automotive/Post-'73 and non GM truck discussion. Otherwise, it's setup very similar to what is being used here. There's virtually no complaining about where different things should be posted, though sometimes posts do get moved if they're in the wrong place.

They goofed up on this one, the front bumper is on upside down!

Extra butter on mine, please.

Valid point. But then again, some of us simply do not have an LHS to go to, so buying online/Ebay is the most viable option. Plus, as Bill pointed out, for getting older kits, Ebay is really the best way to go. I've seen in many cases, the seller on Ebay is in fact a hobby shop clearing out NOS kits to make way for new releases, or selling kits from local customers on consignment. I will admit to preferring to buy from a shop myself rather than buying on Ebay (I like the hunt, plus being able to hold it in my hands before purchase), but sometimes it's the only choice. BTW, the closest hbby shop to me is a 45 mile drive, so I make it count when I go. Kyle, you mention possibly wanting to do a Cameo. One of the nice things about the Cameo kit is that the Stepside version of the kit is essentially identical other than the bed and a few other parts. It does include a drop axle that will swap right into the Cameo, plus has headers, Edelbrock intake/rocker covers/air filter, and a set of custom wheels/tires.

Just a report in from Downstate Illinois; Lots of rain and definitly flooding, but nowhere near as bad as what you fellas Upstate have gotten.

It's from the AMT 1962 Ford Falcon kit.

The frame from the '66 El Camino would be the most accurate, and should work just fine as the El Camino was pretty much the same from the cowl back from '64-'67.

I used a Micro-mark polishing kit, started with the 3600 grit from the kit, and progressed through the grits to the final 12000.

Here's a Dirty Donnie van that I've been working on. It's cleared with the Duplicolor prethinned clear, shot at 12 psi. It has been sanded with a polishing kit, then buffed with rubbing compound and waxed. The base primer was Duplicolor and the paints used were Dupliclor Perfect Match and Tamiya spray laquer.

It's a good product, as Bill stated, when properly applied. I've been using it for a while, seems to spray fine for me right out of the can with no additional thinning. As Cliff pointed out, 10-12 psi works best for the Duplicolor clear.

I do both, depending on the subject and what I want to do with it.

The Extended Use plates are fairly new, I think they came out last year.

In Illinois it does. I beleive it's 5000 miles, and is technically limited to driving to and from shows or parades. There's also now an "extended use" collector plate in Illinois which allows for 10000 miles a year, allowing for some regular driving, mainly cruising or longer trips to car shows, but it is not intended for cars used as daily use vehicles. That's why I have regular plates on mine, as it is a daily driver. On that note, I'm glad that not only do I live Downstate where we don't test for emissions, but both of my vehicles are over 25 years old, and would be exempt anyway.

There are 4 main noticable differences between the '50 and '52. The most obvious differences are the doors and door handles. The '52 has vent windows in the doors and pushbutton door handles, the '50 does not have the vents and uses turn down door hadles. While the doors will interchange on the 1:1 (very common to see this), they are different internally. The other noticable differences are the side cowl vent ('50 has it, '52 does not) and the hood side badging ('50 says "3100", the '52 only says "Chevrolet" ). Most of these differences will be easy to convert from the '50, fill the cowl vent, add vent windows, and swap the door handles for handles from the Revell '64/'65 Chevy truck (outside handles are the same from '52-'66).

Longtime KISS fan here, too. I'm hoping Round 2 will reissue this someday.

Are you talking about tube headers, or just regular exhaust manifolds? Since headers are, for the most part, aftermarket parts on 1:1 vehicls (there are exeptions), they generally are painted by the installer before being put on the engine, and can really be just about any color. Flat black is one of the more popular choices, with silver (just a regular silver, nothing special) and flat white also being common. Header paint also comes in other colors, I've seen blue (popular in the '70s along with white), red, and orange at the FLAPS. For cast iron manifolds, a "steel" color is ok for an brand new, never driven vehicls, but for the most part, once they get some run time on them, iron manifolds tend to turn a rust color.

Is that the '62 'Vette you've been working on? If so, here's one showing the '57 'Vette 4 speed linkage from the shop manual, which is similar to the '62. http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/manuals/1957csoc/57csoc34.html Note that it's very similar to the first one Bill posted, with the exeption on the reverse rod.

91% rubbing alcohol works well for removing Testors One Coat without hurting the plastic.

Bit of a 2 parter here. On te prep part of things, sealing the plastic is necessary when using hot paints, especially most automotive grade laquers. A quality primer is the best, though some use Future or BIN as a sealer. I personally use Duplicolor primer, but I rarly use any of the hotter automotive paints, mostly Duplicolor Perfect match or the occasional PPG paint. Now for the second part. When you mentioned HOK in the first post, I took it you meant actual 1:1 HOK, which is a rather hot paint. The Kustom Kolor (which I also use) is a completely different animal, being a modified urethane, rather than a laquer. I have had to strip it myself in the past, Superclean will not touch it. I didn't have the reaction issues like what you've shown, though. It was merely difficult to remove. The kit in my case was a Revell '57 Chevy (new tool) and had a Duplicolor black primer/Testors laquer as the base. This seems very odd to me that there would be a reaction, as I've never seen Superclean do anything like this before. I wouldn't think the Testors/Kustom Kolor combination would cause this. Perhaps a bad batch of Superclean? I do agree with you about the acetone. Been there, done that, ruined a Revell '56 F-100 body with it.

A reaction between the HOK and the Suerclean could very well be the issue. It's making me wonder if perhaps there wasn't still some solvents from the HOK trapped between it and the Testors Silver that was used as the base. If the base was enamel, the Superclean would have dissolved it first, possibly exposing the plastic to any residual solvents. The damage itself definatly looks to be the kind of solvent crazing one would get from a hot laquer paint or thinner.

I don't beleive the problem is the Superclean, but rather the use of HOK paint on styrene without proper prep. Real HOK is very hot, and will craze plastic in the same manner as the body in your pic. I've stripped plenty of kits in Superclean, new and vintage, and have never seen that issue.

This isn't a '62, but here's the manual page for the '57. http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/manuals/1957csoc/57csocfi01.html

X2

It'll also depend on what kind of vehicle you're replicating. Many newer vehicles are using stainless exhausts (not sure of the exact alloy) which will discolor with the heat and road grime, but doesn't rust like the old plain steel/aluminized steel exhaust does. You might see some rust around the welded joints, but the pipes themselves, as well as the mufflers, will be fairly clean.

I'll see your Shelby 'Stang, and raise you a 1200+ Lingenfeldter! http://gmauthority.com/blog/2011/04/lingenfelter-dynos-1200-horsepower-chevy-camaro/