Longbox55

One of them was in Illinois, saw it at a show in Indy a couple of years ago with Illinois plates on it.

I'm thinking '66 on the mirrors, I have seen pictures in my guides showing a virtually identical mirror on the El Camino for that year. I personally haven't tried swapping in the Trumpeter 6, but I don't see why it wouldn't work.

Both are definitely going to be Must-Haves for my collection, possibly even multiples (especially the coupe).

I was thinking the same thing. I do recall there is someone making resin decals of weld beads, perhaps a similar process could be used the RBL for tires?

Duplicolor clear also works very well over Tamiya and Testors lacquers. If you have an airbrush, Duplicolor Paint Shop clear works very well, and a quart can lasts a long time.

I would want this kit!http://www.clarkcraft.com/cgi-local/shop_new.pl?cart_id=2179bf916c9ebf5b01d8c00c93df75c8&type=item&categ=015&item=936098897 You never specified it had to be a MODEL kit.

No. That was a different one, I forget the name of it. The Stompers were roughly 1/48 scale, with reasonably accurate, if slightly caricaturized, bodies. They ran on a single AA battery, and had working lights. The originals went through 2 designs, the early version had an open battery compartment and an unsealed motor housing, and were equipped with foam tires. The secons design had a cover for the battery, sealed motor, and came with both the original foam tires (indoor) and a set of hard rubber tires for outdoor used. The Stomper 2 kept the same basic layout, but had much wider tires (same wheels, though wheel brakage is common if the tires are swapped too often), added flares to the fenders, and the chassis was modified to allow for 2 speeds plus a neutral position. The switch for changing the gears, as well as turning the motor on, was located on the sides of the frame. There were a few variants of the frame, including a totally sealed version (except battery cover) with extra large plastic wheels with rubber treads that would float, and one that eliminated the high speed range to allow for a front pto drive for a mountable winch. There was also a line of semi trucks that drove all 3 axles that were very well proportioned, a 1/32 scale line that had the high/low 4x4 feature and the pto, a military themed line that included 1/2 tracks and tanks, and a pair of 1/25 scale "monster" trucks, which had a high/low 4x4 mode, a 2wd mode, plus a pto and a scale driver figure. And before you ask, yes, I had at least one of each, including several of the regular line, plus the pulling sled, and several of the track sets. Even better, I still have all of it. I never did pick up any of the model kits, though. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9pko_iTP4sQ

Revell did have a snap kit of the 2nd gen Blazer. It hasn't been reissued since the mid '80s, last issue that I'm aware of being in the "Stomper" series with non-stock oversize tires styled after the tires on the Stomper 2 4x4 toys. See post #2 in this thread for pic of the Revell Blazer http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=75490 A neat tip; Due to the scale difference, the bed from the wrecker will fit on the 1/24 scale GMC pickup frame with little issue. The wheelbase lines up just fine.

Bad thing about the '64-'65'-66 Chevrolet trucks is that they are somewhat difficult to differentiate, especially if the series ID badges are missing, as they are in the picture. Otherwise, they are almost identical in appearance. I can tell you that mirrors are not stock. perhaps Chevelle or E Camino from what I can tell. There was a square mirror option, but they used the same stands as the round mirrors. From what I can see, the taillights almost look like they might be either trailer lights, or perhaps Ford. The wipers should not overlap, they are mispositioned n the box art. A few notes on engines; The 327 was indeed available in a Chevrolet truck in '65, but only in 2wd 3/4 tons and 1 tons (there were no factory 1 ton 4x4s). 1/2 tons used the 283, as did the base model V8 3/4 and 1 tons. For the 6 cylinder, the one from the AMT '60 is only accurate up to '62, plus some early '63 4x4s used the 261 variant of that engine, The correct 6 would be the one found in the Trumpeter Nova.

It's a little pricey, but Touch Up direct has it in a spray can. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BD2PBMG/ref=noref?ie=UTF8&psc=1&s=automotive

A quick note on the cab window options and the Custom Cab option, they were separate options.

Ed, I agree with you 100% on those beds. Bill, the wheelbases were the same from '60-'72, with the back half of the frame for the most part being identical. The main differences are in the front, with the obvious part being the torsion bar vs coil frontend. The torsion bar frame ('60-62) also had an extra X member, partially for extra rigidity, but also to allow for the mounting of the torsion bars. The frames are very similar otherwise. A very popular swap on the 1:1 is to use the coil spring cross member from the '63-'87 (mostly using '73 and later for disk brakes) to get away from the original torsion bar setup, as parts are somewhat hard to get and expensive when they can be found. It's a fairly easy swap, only requiring 4 holes to be drilled, and a mounting plate to adapt the later power steering box. In the rear suspension, the only real difference is the differential itself. The '60-'62 uses the Eaton HO33 axle, same as the '55-'59 Task Force trucks that preceded them, the '63-'66 use the GM 12 bolt Truck axle, though a Spicer could be had as an option, usually with leaf springs (GMC frame).

Not a bad kit overall. It looks to have good proportions to the 1:1, though there are a few quirks. It does not have springs for the suspension, only a tubular shaped mounting point where the springs should be. Fairly easy fix. The engine mounts aren't anything like the 1:1, to me, it makes it look like the engine sits too high in the frame. There's also an incorrect 5 lug wheel for the spare, should be 6 lug, though it isn't very noticeable once the spare is mounted in the carrier. The only other issue I've heard of with it, and I haven't really checked in to it myself, is that the grille isn't exactly right. On a side note, if you're planning to mix it with parts from the original AMT '60s Chevy trucks, the body contours are more rounded at the bottom on the Revell, and the AMT is about 1/8" wider. I found that out when I went to make a long bed version using an original AMT bed.

He's plugging for Monster this season.

Thanks!

I never had a problem with it, but have had plenty of problems with so-called "superior" decal papers (BMF mainly). I do admit, I liked Supercal paper better, but can't find it locally anymore.

A bit of advise; Make sure you let the decals dry thoroughly after printing them before you seal them. If the ink hasn't has a chance to set, the clear will make them run.

Slot & Wing Hobbies 1040 W Bloomington Road Champaign Illinois Old school hobby shop, dating back to the 1960s, family owned. Carries model cars/trucks/military/aircraft, as well as railroad (all scales), slot cars, and R/C cars and aircraft. They do have a decent backstock of oop kits and oddball kits that aren't generally found in the US. In addition, they have a Scratch and Dent section that's a good place to check for bargains, especially if you're looking for a donor kit for parts. Prices are generally very good, average price for a 1/25-1/24 domestic kit is around $13, and they are willing to make deals on kits, particularly kits in damaged boxes. In addition to the hobby business, they also have a hunting and archery business in the same building, and they also are a dealer for vintage sodas (I strongly suggest trying the Dang! Butterscotch rootbeer and MacFuddy Pepper Elixir). http://www.slotandwing.net/ I forgot to mention, Slot & Wing also hosts the C.I.S.A.B. when they have meetings in the Champaign area.

Update, got the paintwork straightened out for the most part (still need to redo one small part), it's now in a final paint scheme. I ended up changing the 2 tone, it was originally going to extend around the bed. After the issues I had with the paint lifting (again, my fault, not the paint) and seeing how it looked, I decided to strip the bed and go with the single color. I still need to make the decals for the doors, finish the interior, and come up with an engine, which is most likely going to end up being a Slant 6, since I have one from the Lindberg Dodge in my parts stash.I'm also considering adding a driver, as I have visions of putting it in a diorama I've been planning to build for some time, part of which now is going to include a drive-in diner from SMBC. I'm thinking of having it parked there with the driver getting a bite to eat.

It's actually a 265, the 283 wasn't available in light trucks (except for Canadian GMCs) until '58. AMT mismarked the box on the Cameo.

I'm with fatkidd, you most likely have Kustom Kolor, which was made by Valspar (House of Kolors parent company). It's a modified enamel, not really sure what to tell you to reduce it with. The HA101 is the Airbrush Thinner from that line. You might be able to use lacquer thinner, similar to how Donn Yost does with Testors enamels. I would test it first, though, to be certain it will not react with the paint. I have a rather large stash of Kustom Kolor myself, I'll see about testing it in the meantime and get back with you.

I was mainly referring to AWD vehicles with IFS, the GMC Syclone is known for its torque steer issues.

It can also happen in AWD vehicles, though not to as much of a degree.

BTW, the penalty in Kentucky is a minimum $100 fine, 3 days imprisonment, or both.

If you continue that, you may find yourself on the wrong side of the bench, and most judges do not take kindly to those who skip out on jury duty without a valid reason.