71drolds

i understand. again, awesome effort!

i am a big olds fan and love the vistas! i am completely blown away by this build. but, i have to ask, why would you paint the engine gold? gold=350. if you had a 442 W-30 it would have a 455. blue =455. most vistas including the '70 and the '71 i had came factory with 455's. just wondering.

i know they are a reputable company and like i said ive always been happy with their products and services. i just dont remember it taking this long before. im sure it will get here soon.

is anyone else having problems with orders placed from modelhaus? i ordered something on 5/30/12 and havnt received it or any notification about it since the initial order conformation. ive ordered from them many times before and never had a problem.

i dont have a problem with scratches so much as im just not happy with the shine. ive heard of people using the same stuff and getting good results, but i just cant get the same. ive never tried anything after the scratch x. maybe i need to explore that.

like it says, i use meguires scratch x for polishing and im not happy with it. i see all these paint job that just glow, and i cant get mine there. i would like to use something that i dont have to order and can get locally. give me some ideas PLEASE!

havent touched it in a while. the color is testors bronze laquer. i need to get back to it but other things have been taken over.

http://public.fotki.com/cnaind/drag-tires-slicks--/drag-radials/ heres the link to the drag radials. they are modeled after hoosier drag radials.

i knew someone was going to ask that. i cant remember where i got them but ill try to find out. these were the only ones i could find at the time and im not 100% happy with them. i cant figure out what actual tire tread pattern they are supposed to be. wish they were mickey tomps. by the way, the wheels are from the 57 chevy black widow kit. i widened the rears and added valve stems.

this is one ive been working on for a bit. my plan is a plain jain looking 66 chevy. it will have a big block chevy, steel wheels (widened for the rear)with dog dish caps, and drag radials. the pictures arent the best, but you get the idea.

this is my buddy tom's truck. its a '49 international on a lowered S-10 frame with a TH400 and a 350 Olds. it started out as a long bed 3/4 ton.

BBC in '84 jimmy turbo charged olds 455

as far as the headlights go, i always drill them out and replace them with lenses. i usually put BMF on the back of the lenses, but next time im going to try to make buckets with bulbs.check out my 442 build and you can see how it looks if you drill out the molded lights.

been away for a while. on the real cars, the 70,71,and 72 bodies are identical with the exception of the hood. the hood for the 70 is different than the 71/72. the headlight buckets are seperate pieces throughout all three years.

this may be a real bone head question but i dont know anything about sprints. why is the motor canted? is it for weight distribution?

another tip, for 1971 442's, the grill is black with a silver shell. for 1972 442's, the grill is silver with a black shell. if anybody has any questions about these cars feel free to ask as they are kind of my passion.

since i own a 1:1 car like this, i get particular about the details. one thing that i havent seen anybody do right yet, is the paint around the headlight bezels. while the kit has the whole grill/headlight/bumper piece in chrome, the area between the headlights and the bumper and the headlights and the grills should be body color like this. doing it this way really adds some depth to the front end and keeps it from looking like one molded piece. also, if your doing a '71, the headlight bezels should be all chrome. if its a '72, they should have flat or matte black insets. this is true wiether its a cutlass or a 442. i just thought with the popularity of this kit, some of you might want to know this.

sounds good. i also thought of highly diluted bleach applied in the same method and then gone over with a dullcoat.

i need opinions on how to make 'glass look old. im building a "barn find" gasser with a one piece 'glass flip front end. it will be flat black to look as if they never got past the priming stage. but, i want to make it look very old and weathered. you know how they get almost water stained after time? how can i get that look perminately?

nice two tone! very tasteful!

well i had a problem with the primer. i didnt warm the can first and i think the spary tip was dirty and i got a nicely textured paint job on this one and another one i have in the works. so both bodys spent the night in the purple pond and need to have all the body work done again. two steps forward, one step back. also, heres a teaser for my other current project. it will be a '66 chevy impala sleeper. plain brown paint, no trim, steel wheels with dog dish hub caps, wide steelies on back with drag radials, BBC with torker II intake and big holley, dart heads, roll cage, full custom exhaust with dumps, all with a dead stock flat hood! i think i will call it "the plain brown wrapper".

the gold T/A wheesl are the winner!

well after after six months im back to work on this one. i ran into one dead end after another with getting original pictures. so i changed my plans. now im going to go for a barn find look. i'll leave the front end in primer and make the rest of the car look old and untouched and like a poor mans drag car(faded paint, rust, no sponsers). right now im the process of filling the seams between the hood and fenders to make it look like a true one piece flip front.

looks awsome! love the AWB's