Tony Bryan

Now that is a real nice build

Great Job, any plans for trailers?

Research is the key to any build, find photos or take them yourself, and replicate what you see, and generally if it looks right then it is right, so keep referencing your pics just remember when you plumb or wire something, it should stay in scale to what the real truck is, for example 1mm (0.40) wire x 25th scale = 25mm or 1" not many if any brake lines or suzie cords are 1" so what you can do is strip the cover off it, which is getting closer to the true scale of what it should be, or use nylon fishing line for things like air lines, detail nuts etc can be cut from hex rod, lots of photo etch stuff is available, as well as manufactured nuts bolts washers, rivets and the list goes on also ink is a good thing to use for oil stains on engines Dont be scared to take as many reference pics as you can You can build anything you want if you break it down into parts, or pieces real air cleaner one I am playing with and the tooling to make it and you can use most materials Aluminium Plastic Brass Certainly the key is to have a go, do be afraid to try things, and if it doesn't work, try something else, Yes by all means post your builds, I am sure a few here will be willing to help

Great scratch building, you sure know how to put a cab together,

Great job so far

Great job on your first truck, I do hope you build a few more

Terry To be honest with you, if you are going to make one part work, then you would have to make the rest function as well, which as experience tells me, it takes a very long time, why??? because to make things work, it requires research, tooling, making, then remaking parts that you are not happy with,I'm at the 5 year mark in another build that has consumed a lot of hours, which can take 6-10 hours to make tooling for just one part that takes 20 minutes to make, then multiply that by 2000 parts To make a paddle wheel work is relatively easy, but do you really want to see it working all the time?, bear in mind, the more it is running the more it can break, it has to be lubricated etc, to stop it breaking,to over come friction then since you have a working paddle, but why stop there????

This is a great build, and really suits the KW, This would be a great kit instead of the Can do wrecker,

Go the paddle scraper, haven't seen one of these built for awhile, and certainly not in 1/16th Small update Engine cover has been scribed, and check plate fitted, hand rails started Air cleaner machined from acrylic, ready for mounting hardware Front grill painted, ready for it's decal

There is nothing wrong with the links, but try these Clear out your browser's cache and cookies and make sure you have the most current versions of Flash and Java Also, check to see if Javascript is enabled (Javascript is different from Java) in other words make sure your computer is up to date with all updates current Hopefully this will help

If your wife can use nail polish inside during winter, I can't see any problem painting a model inside where it is warm also, and the bathroom is the best place to do it, my wife has a few stories she could tell you hahahahaha

Matt from Monkey Claw can sort out some wheels for you, he does some 2 hole buds that may suit, not sure if he does others As for the working lights, well in my opinion, they never seem scale enough to give out the correct light without some major work, and by that I mean work on the lenses and electronics, as generally they are far to bright for the right look, which is a comon mistake people make for stop lights, which they only have to light up the lenses not 2 kilometres behind the truck With regards to the trailer, there is really no need to go extreme with the engineering, if the trailer is built the same way as the original, then sheet plastic is more than enough strength, and would recommend 1 to 1.5 mm sheet (1.5mm max) 1 mm sheet stock equals 16mm plate, not many trailers use bigger than that, for the body, I would only use 0.75mm You would be surprised how strong sheet stock can be when assembled correctly, i.e., gussets, bracing, infills etc like a real trailer would have, Building out of plastic is better as it does keep the weight down, adding sheet metal and wood, increases the weight therefore needs more strength in certain parts Look forward to seeing your progress

If you are going to scratch a 631, you can use the 3408 out of the monogram truck kit, as they where fitted with these, The 657G is fitted with a C18 and a C16,

When the owner of Kangaroo died ...... must be close to 10 years back, the leftover stuff was sold, and most of the art work disappeared when the family where working out what to do with it Kangaroo had the best decals, they where screen printed, and where quality, This website has what is left of the Kangaroo range, and there is not much left, a lot of decals where destroyed in a flood recently http://www.grdecals.com.au/page8.html

Looks great, love the for sale sign in the window, nice touch

Nice logger, love the detail you have gone to, Kangaroo decals here in Australia years ago, done Hauling Ass photo etch, on the same fret they had keep on trucking and a couple of others I think, will dig mine out and post a pic for you

That is a real nice job

Sergey It's all in the detail, and wow, it has some detail, and is slowly coming together nicely

Mardtrp But appears I was the only one ready to offer any help....... Randy I find it pretty offensive that you make a lame comment like this, when the only object of my posts is to offer advise from what I have learnt, cause as Jim has stated "he is learning" A person with your talent, one would have thought you may have offered some as well, but appears you are to happy stroking your ego, and wasting modelling time.........

Nice one Ben, looks great so far, What colours are you planning? A little tip for you, check the exhaust out before committing to paint, the roof fowls a little with the exhaust pipe, and you may need to mod it a little

Going over kill on the solder WILL NOT make the joint stronger, the correct prep and technique makes the bond stronger, if you wanted a strong bond that will NOT break, then it should have been silver soldered I can see exactly how the diff has been made, it is just not the way I would have done it, but your build, and your friends money, to get a show truck finish is going to require a huge amount of work on the frame cleaning it up for paint that more than likely wont stick

Thanks Kurt,

Anthony, I totally agree, it is cast from a toy, which in fact you can buy for less than $30, so why buy a resin one.... yes, when it did come out a lot of people did jump on it, including me, but when it was realised it was just a toy.... here is what the machine was cast from This is the KFS kit and like Anthony said, apples and oranges, the KFS kit has many white metal parts, great photo etch , great decals, and is quality castings, no flash, bubbles or problems assembling it, I would rather spend the extra buying this kit (KFS) as you get what you pay for........ quality

Thanks guys for all to kind words Ben If you are going to full hydraulic, then it is much better to rebuild the whole top section, so you can open all the doors, the frame is to thick to use, so best to rebuild the lot, and vac form all the doors to suit, I have started a 1/16th version but different brand which I am scratch building the whole thing doing the same, so many projects so little time, when it is over half done I will post some pics When you cast some of the michigan parts let me know, I have the same kit to build, but not for awhile yet

Thanks Dave, I have thought about the fulcrum points, will no doubt cast them in white metal, and machine all the pins for it, thinking about all the rams in brass as well