Skip
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Posts posted by Skip
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I use the flip open jewelry parts storage boxes at Hobby Lobby they're about 18 X 12 X 2" with 2 X 2" compartments for the parts. It's usually the small stuff that gets lost anyway. I usually store larger stuff in the stacking plastic drawer modules purchased at most big box stores. Most of my tools are either stored in a small three drawer toolbox or hanging off magnetic tool holder strips. After market parts resin, photo etch are kept in their original package until used and are stored file box fashion in plastic Stero Shoeboxes. I use the same shoeboxes to keep in work kits, parts and needed items together during the build process.
Pays to be organized, I've done it both ways where all the extra parts got thrown in a common container mixed about so anytime a part was needed it got dug for which ruins chrome quickly. I like the organized system much better, I store all like parts together when I need an axle, I open the bin they're in and choose the one that works. Same thing for any other parts. Beats digging!
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I think what he is asking for is the descriptive actions of each.
Sanding refers to color sanding which levels out the high and low areas of the color coat and or clear coat using ultra fine Wet sanding paper/ pads/ films from 2,000 - 12,000 grits and finer.
polishing refers to a series of liquid based polish compounds, which the grit is suspended in the compound. Think rubbing compound. A favorite polish system of a few people oon here is the Novus three part plastic polish system which is used on the topcoat and works well, needs no waxing.
Next step for both would be to wax the topcoat whether that be color or clear coat
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I don't have a problem with the way (Rotorbolt73) Matt's doing business on eBay, it's honest, (and as demonstrated by the next reply to his post) doing someone else a favor making the remainder of the kit available to someone else who knows upfront what they're getting. I know there are others on here who,are doing parts and pieces sales as well as partial kit sales, I've bought from some of you got what I wanted at a reasonable price, Thanks. Your doing the same as casual sellers used to do. I buy stuff from these sellers all the time.
My issue is the same as others have mentioned before and is a two fold issue in my book. 1. Seller marks up the headers (or ?????) from any kit for like half to a third of the sales price of the whole kit. 2. Seller cherry picks the best parts out of the kit (new or rare doesn't matter) then prices them at half or more than the kit sells for, because they're doing you a service!!
I've heard others mention this and have experienced it myself; you make a reasonable offer for said parts. Next thing you know you have a two page email explaining first what an idiot you are, then explaination of how much overhead that they have in this business. You know, you don't expect them to "offer this service" for free do you? There's gas, overhead, their time, their inventory, their this and that, postage, handling, gas to and from the post office, time in line eBay fees.... they feel no shame in itemizing very little thing they think it's costing to offer this valuable service! It'll be a cold day in July when I buy anything from one of these preditory sellers!
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I didn't expect you to search first - I was just making a statement. This is the thread I was thinking of.
Yep, I started that one with the intention of getting some intelegent dialog going on the subject; what I got was the same as the asker here has, smart a$ked answers from the same people who did so on both threads. Kinda sad at times when a civil discussion can't be held without someone's comments tossing the discussion into the ditch! Yeah, I've probably been guilty of doing so a few times and am sorry for it. It just gets to me when the same individuals repeatedly drive a discussion sideways with either inappropriate humor or comments that have little or nothing to do with the subject!
Rant Over... Return to previously scheduled discussion if you can...
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I think I've told this story before but bears repeating. I once followed a Trabant and a two stroker SAAB 96 to a car show in my Mini which was spotless before I left the house. When I got to the show, following two two stroke cars it was covered with little spots of two stroke oil! At least the 96 was running Castrol R two stroke oil whichever actually smells kind of good. Definitely a better use for castor oil than drinking it a spoon at a time!! For a couple years after there would be little bits of oil which would come out of the windshield gasket when the weather got hot! Needless to say both guys helped me degrease the Mini after we got to the show, I also never followed those two again!
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Interesting. The story we always heard was that the former Soviet block countries were so starved for new cars that they would almost take anything they got, not to mention the wait to get one. From what I understand there are a whole lot of Trabants here in the USA. Lots of Mini's too.
Funny thing when I drive my RHD Mini, I almost always have some brilliant soul comment on they didn't think it was leagal to frive a RHD car where everyone else drives LHD cars. My stock answer is in the form of a question. We'll have you told your mail carrier that their mail truck/van is illegal to drive? (Most U.S. Mail carriers drive a RHD, makes it easier for them to place mail in the mailboxes). When they figure out that they've sorta made a wrong assumption they almost always get a little red around the edges!
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You're just knocken' those Trabants out of the park, another beautiful job. Your flocking looks just like the indoor outdoor carpet in the kit I got for the boot of my Mini! (Major compliment!!)
Where are you finding all your reference material? The three Trabants that I've seen up close have more of a semi-gloss paint; love your glossy paint on them.
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I ended up buying a Paasche spray booth for the exact same reason, I've been very pleased with that decision. The booth that you've shown looks like it should work well for you.
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The Dawn dish soap worked well, it didn't remove it all but did a good enough job that the parts were allowed in my hobby room. Since some of the items were plastic, resin and plated plastic I washed a few pieces in the vinegar solution, there was also a marked reduction in odor, but then there was a slight vinegar smell that washed right off with the Dawn dish soap. Also tried sprinkling a good amount of baking soda on the parts first, the baking soda reeked after just a day, then Dawn dish soap; to my sensitive snoot I believe that this worked the best of all methods that I tried.
Recommendation, Dawn dish soap for a one shot treatment. Baking Soda, soak in plain old Baking Soda for a minimum of 24 hours inside a closed container; I used ziplock bags. Next place the parts in another ziplock bag, place about a teaspoon of Dawn dish soap in the Baggie, finally add just enough warm water to cover the parts. Gently agitate the parts around to allow the dish soap to dilute into solution. Shortest time that I found worked for a single soak was 2 hours. For a two time wash I found that the odor was mitigated in two 15 minute soak, rinse, soak and rinse sessions.
Once again, Thank You all for the great suggestions, this is just one of the things that makes our community great!
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I'll admit to having one too! It was on the basis of the recommendations in both Model Car Science and Car Model magazines that I sent in a money order for a dollar forty nine cents comes to mind, this was probably around '64, so a $1.49 was pretty big money. I remember waiting and waiting, then waiting some more, AutoWorld was never the quickest shipper I think they must have shared the shipping department with J.C. Whitney and Johnson, Smith Novelties, because six weeks was like average. When you finally got it, it was like Christmas and your birthday all in one, because as a kid it took so long to get that sometimes you forgot that you even ordered something!
The first "Project" I attempted with the AutoWorld Auto Cutter, was opening the doors on a '59 or '60 Corvette Promo (which I wish I still had in its pristine, pre melted state), given to me by my Uncle. Soon the door shortening turned into a vertical sectioning project, I blamed the issues on the Promo's extra thick plastic. For the Auto Cutter's second attempt I began work on a Monogram 1/32 scale Fiat Altered, which the Auto Cutter Altered too much to salvage. I did manage to do some of the fancy "stitch welding" which was demonstrated in like two pictures in Model Car Science, I remember being majorly stoked about that! Alas the Auto Cutter was relegated to a tool of destruction, for which it was suited quite well!!
What I remember the Auto Cutter doing best was burning skin either by itself or by molten styrene! I still have a rather noticeable scar on my right hand between ring and little finger, right in the web. Molten plastic is nearly impossible to remove from burning skin, it just burns deeper until cooling to the point where it finally cools and no longer burns deeper (or melts completely through)!!! Once cooled to that point it is literally welded to the skin and whatever else it has burned through. Now there is one slight benefit to burning yourself with molten plastic. The molten plastic is so hot it cauterizes as it burns, so there is no bleeding to make one more squeamish than they already are from the excruciating pain and combined smell of vaporized skin and melted plastic! Remember this was before companies felt the need to place warnings or even age recommendations on packaging. Otherwise no 8 or 9 year old kid would be burning themselves with scars still visible today! I often wonder when I hear or read about people getting themselves branded with a red hot chunk of metal, did they get that idea from the AutoWorld Auto Cutter?
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This of year many stores draw down their stock for inventory and tax purposes, could likely be what you are noticing.
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May not have been supercharged, but very sweet example of a really nice mid-50's Hot Rod! Like I remember seeing in the early 60's, not too shines not at all rusty.
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I wouldn't randomly mix vinegar, (acetic acid), with baking soda, or other bases. Won't go well.
Dawn, wash, then rinse, then soak, then wash/rinse/dry. Toss in bag with dryer sheets, or Febreeze sheets.
If box/instructions bad, do what Tom did with proofs. Can also spray with Febreeze repeating a coat every day or so.
Charcoal great as is baking soda but please don't randomly mix stuff.
Wash first, then deodorize.
I see my tongue in cheek wasn't cheekish enough!! Vinegar and baking soda make a cool frothy fizzy mess, yes I did know that. Could be why the Dawn dishwashing detergent was going to get tossed in too,,, then again if you drank the deodorizing vodka, who cares what it smells like and the mess you just made!!!
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The worn paint and/or primer, stripped down, "gow job", "jalopy", aesthetic has been around since the beginning of the hot rod and kustom movement. It’s an outgrowth of limted budgets, cheap old cars, and work-in-progress. Aggressive rust, however, is a modern trend which emerged at the turn of the current century, probably as an extension of the emergence of old barn find rods and customs. Here are some early examples:
Wouldn't call those rat rods, pretty traditional. By the way Bernard, have you seen the book on "Spokane Hot Rods" covers a few other Hot Rods around eastern Washington area as well, pretty much the post War Era stuff a lot of us like. Put out by the folks at Rodder's Journal, got it for Christmas, couldn't put it down. Too bad no Seattle or Western Washington Hot Rodders book yet though. First thing I looked to see!
I pretty much like the pre and post war cars on up until almost the Muscle Car Era. Pretty fond of the late 50's to mid 60's stuff I saw my Uncles put together and drive. Lots of the cars I remember we're pretty nice looking and fairly well constructed. (Stick welding and all!) I remember a few of my uncles friends whose cars were brush painted, but they looked decent after they were rubbed on.
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Soak them in diluted vinegar.
Will try that one for sure, safe on resin I hope! Lots of vinegar left over from making pickled peppers last fall. Probably try some dish soap along with the vinegar, maybe even a dusting of baking soda, for alcohol, (would vodka work instead, you know drink the vodka until you no longer care about the smell! I don't drink so it wouldn't take much!!) Didn't they try vodka on sneakers on Mythbusters?
wouldn't be that bad but it is just that wicked, rancid, stale cigarette smoke smell, I could smell it on my hands even after washing them!
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You can also try putting the parts or whatever in a closed box and sprinkling baking soda all over everything, letting it sit for a while.
If baking soda will pull the stink out of my sneakers, it ought to work on just about anything known to man.
that was one idea I had been thinking of too.
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The rusty look started with the rat rods right around mid-nineties to 2000-ish, many point to the Choppers Car Club, Southern California in their Anti-Billet, Anti-Boyd look rolling statements. There were rat rods before them though because the Choppers argued that their Hot Rods were "Traditional" not rat rods. rat rods pretty much came about when builders would take a cowl from one car cobble it together with cast-off parts of many different sources, toss it together as something "fun to drive". Unfortunately many rat rods are built with scary construction practices which like some of the first crude Hot Rods gave Hot Rodding a bad name and image. Later, it has become "fashionable" to emulate the rat rod look with sound construction practices, still rat rods.
The patina has been around for some time, it originally is/was part of the Preservation Classes in Classic Car circles. It was "Barn Find" before there was a term for it. Preservation Class as I understand it allows only for non-original items which allow the vehicle to continue to be operational. Pretty much a wash it up and run and show what you brung class. The major argument for class of cars is that they "are original only once". Later the "patina look" became an acceptable look to some within car culture, custom culture which has in turn lead to the faux-tina look done with new paint to look old again, even over fiberglass panels.
as for me, unless it is a true "Preservation Class Automible" I'm not a fan of either rat rod or heavy patina look, rust should be dealt with! I love the Traditional Hot Rods as most of them aren't piles of rusty metal waiting to cause an accident. Which many rat rodders point to as part of the "thrill" of owning one, most of the rat rod owners must not own enough to be sued for or something!!
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I need some help and suggestions on how to remove stale cigarette smoke odor from styrene and resin model car parts? I received 3 separate eBay orders or should I say odors today and they are all so bad that they are in the garage!! Pretty sure I'm not the only person who is interested in how to get rid of the smokey smell off of model parts.
Ive used dryer sheets to mitigate smoke and musty magazine odors with great success before. I'm hesitant to use dryer sheets with plastic and resin because most contain silicones in them for that anti static cling. Which is why I really am not too thrilled about using the dryer sheets with model parts, especially stuff I will be painting, one of the stinkers is a resin body!
I get severe migraine headaches from being around stuff like this, so it's not just a nuisance odor. For some of us it can trigger life threatening Issues, asthma, severe migraines can and have triggered strokes, even if it's just a slight headache or burning nose and sinuses the whole thing can be a literal pain. So when you hear one of us "whining" about receiving stinky stuff we really do have an issue with it, we really aren't just complaining about something really trivial.
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In a Hot Rod sense it really depends if you are talking East or West Coast Hot Rods. For the most part the ultimate West Coast Hot Rod is the Three Window. East Coast Rodders seemed to prefer the Five Window in a heavily channeled version. In more recent times an original Three Window prices have reached unobtanium for the average Rodder, the Five Window has been the somewhat more affordable version on both coasts. With reproduction bodies of both Deuce Coupes being produced again it evens it back out to taste again.
my answer would be; Depends on the look you're aiming at for a Hot Rod, for Restoration pretty much the same depends on what version you find more appealing. For me personally I prefer the Three Window by a lot, Five Window looks too much like a Model A to be a Deuce, (even though it is).
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Bill, you are correct on the seasoned blocks. I remember reading an article about another guy named Bill. Bill "Grumpy" Jenkins, back when he was running his Pro-Stock Vega's, he would search out high mileage NYC Taxi Cab motors. When the time the article was written it said he would swap in a rebuilt small block Chevy for a good rebuildable "core". As in all he wanted was the block. His reasoning was exactly the same, that a high mileage engine had taken a "set" and would remain the same even after the extensive machine work he did to them. I've also heard the same type of statement attributed to Smokey Yunick. Who are we mere mortals to argue with genius!!!
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1965 Pontiac GTO, Hardtop and Post lots of period Drag parts, proper set of tube headers.
Split, Oval window, post '58 VW Type 1 - Bugs 1/25 Scale Modern tooting not oversimplified with correct engine/transaxle
late 50's early 60's Dragsters
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They were likely Mcculloch chain saw motors.
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I think I paid $10 or 12 for the 6" metal digital calipers on sale a while back, I have a box full of Starret and Brown & Sharp. I like the Harbor Freight calipers, they have decent feel to them and I'm not afraid to leave them on the bench or accidentally drop them!
ultrasonic cleaners aren't bad if you can get them on sale paid $30 for the small one, good for cleaning up the airbrush parts. The DeLuxe Airbrush isn't too bad as long as you take the time to tune it in, I've got a couple I use as backups to higher dollar airbrushes. Don't know that I'd use one as my number one airbrush, if someone asks to borrow one they get the Harbor Freight brush, not the Iwata or any of the others!!! If you look around you will find stuff that is useable on your bench, small drill bits (they're sharp enough to use on plastic, when they wear toss me), files, cutters. Just keep your eyes and mind open. Most all of their stuff is A knock off made in China, they work but don't expect years of use out of them.
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Nice work, those of us who've built that kit from when it came out as "The Bad Man" to the Street Machine... It just didn't get any better, it fit like that from the get go! For a kid it was a "glue bomb" in a box! With a little patience and a lot of fitting it can be built into a rather nice "Period Correct" Blown Gasser. It sits right for the gassers of the late '60's and early '70's time period right out of the box. From the looks of things you've got this one under control its gonna look really sweet when you get it finished. Would be neat to find the Bad Man decals from the original kit. Your model brings back a few great memories, thanks for sharing it.
Never understood why Monogram took Tom Daniels artwork and then designed some of the oversimplified kits they did, they could have done some really cool stuff with them rather than shoot for Skill Level 1 with a great deal of fitting!! I remember paying a whopping .99 cents for the first Bad Man kit along with a couple of .99 cent Pie Wagons to build as a "rumble seat" coupe (Model Car Science article) at a K-mart "Grand Opening"!! (A few years ago I went to the same store's "going belly up" sale.).
Let's See Some Glue Bombs!
in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
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Some pretty amazing examples of "Glue Bombing" even more amazing are some of the restorations you guys have done with them. Thanks for sharing them.