Skip
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Posts posted by Skip
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Could be when the spray cap is placed onto the can during assembly that there is some expectation of pressure build up underneath the cap which could cause it to pop off. The possibility of the presence of liquid paint under the cap could cause enough hydraulic pressure to pop off the spray cap.
Good question, but you can guess that either some mechanical engineer, manufacturing tooling person had it placed there for a reason. It costs money for the tooling to place that hole there so the manufacturer of the cap isn't going to just put a hole in the cap without a good reason. Something like, indexing the cap so that the small round spray nozzle can be pressed in. Even for a pin to eject the spray cap from the injection mold. You could probably think up a bazillion such scenarios, until you break down the steps of the manufacturing process from beginning to end all it would be is a guess.
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I'd think a new-tool '65 GTO should be high on some kitmaker's possibilities list--Revell, most likely, but maybe Moebius. It's such an iconic musclecar, even more so than the '64. Revell could use their '66 chassis, engine, and related parts.
I'd buy several, makes me all nostalgic. Totally disappointed with the latest AMT reissue, I never had the original issue so I thought it was as bad as the later reissue. Please someone we'd love to see a proper '65 Goat!
This would be a great multiple use tooling expenditure as well, the '65 Chevelle, Skylark, Olds used the same platform and basic interior bucket.
@ 70JudgeMan - Andy, That's probably the closest to the color I've ever seen, could have been a special order coded GTO. Pretty much anything was possible with the right dealer back then.
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Replying to my own question here.
In many hobbies, models included some of the ridiculous prices seem to be driven by people with no patience to hunt down what they want. Used to collect and trade Redline Hot Wheels so I've seen the "it's old it's worth more mentality", there too! We see it in the Old Car market as well, the rise of the "designer" Telivised Auctions proves that one, prices have risen astronomically since the Auction "Services" got involved.
I've bought a few old kits that haven't been available in eons and had issues with warped, brittle plastic, even tire burn. Then there are parts, you are almost gauranteed you'll be doing some restoration. Sometimes you get lucky and get unused pieces, which unfortunately end up brittle that you have to be super careful with. For me there are times when it's difficult to justify this kind of pricing with the extra care to make the part(s) work.
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Perusing through Evilbay window shopping some of the old styrene for sale, I started wondering just who is to blame for some of the stupidly high asking prices for old/vintage kits, parts, build ups, boxes...? Is it the seller? Is it the buyer? Is it someone lacking patience to hunt the old kit(s) down? Maybe even nostalgia, "I built this as a kid"? Is it just because it's old? Finally are some of these kits really worth a huge asking price when the builder may have to exercise extreme care with old brittle styrene?
What do you guys (and gals) think about it, would you even rather bother with the old styrene? (Lots of questions, trying to generate some civil discussion). What do you think?
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They're called "Post GTO's because they have a "B" Pillar behind the door with fixed glass, a door which is also framed around the door glass. Versus a true hard top car which has roll up windows in the door and behind the door as well, the chrome strip on the behind door glass gives the illusion of a narrow pillar which also seals the door glass. If I remember correctly there were more Hard Tops built than Posts, but not so few that they are rare just not as common.
Think Hard top Nova Versus mainline Chevy II which has that same type of B pillar arrangement. On the Post GTO it is probably a carryover from the Tempest and done at the factory as a True GTO build.
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First car was a '65 GTO, the '65 was more Chevelle like than the later Goats. Having had a '65 myself I've always liked that year better than the larger later GTO's. They were plenty fast for their day, in retrospect the handling wasn't quite on par with the Horsepower, but it sure was fun!
Mine was a Copper color, I've looked in paint books but have never found that color in any paint book. I bought the car from the original owner who told me that it had never been repainted. When I touched some minor road rash the color had to be hand mixed to match the Metalic Copper color on the car combined with a black interior it was a really sweet looking car.
Something else that I just found out just recently is that the '65 GTO was built both as a Hardtop and a Post. I was looking at a "Post" Goat for sale in California, thinking it was a Tempest Clone. I looked it up on the Pontiac Registry only to find it to be a true GTO to my surprise there really were Post Goats. (Should have looked for that mystery color while I was there.)
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Looks great, similar to one Hot Rod magazine did back in the '80's or so.
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Very nice, Old English and Black top is a cool combo! The Classic Mini club that I belong to has a few Mini's that same color. You nailed it!! Now you need a Red SAAB 96 to go with it!!!
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"Very cool!. I think it looks very authentic. I will say this though, the pure white suspension parts makes it look unfinished. Like it's white plastic mocked up. Perhaps a pale grey wash added to bring out the detail?"
You've got a well executed T Roadster which I like very much. '26 and '27 T Roadsters and Coupes are sort of my favorite Model T Hot Rods. It's difficult to get the "Right" Look lots of them get the front from the firewall too long, yours is just right! That Track Nose looks right at home on the front of your car! Great job!
Agree 100% with Rob's point (above), though I recommend going even darker to allow the details to really pop.
Observation 2. Looks like you had paint problems, no big deal, we've all been there too! How about making some really sweet lemonade out of a few lemons. So is this a street car? A Lakes Roadster, or even a B'ville Salt car. Whichever you choose the paintwork could either be further distressed or add some grime from a day on the Lakes or the Salt, then once you have it looking well raced try making a base with either crackled dirt or fine salt. Remember too that many old Hot Rods were painted with a brush and Enamel house paint. Not all of them were total show pieces, their owners cared more about the go aspect rather than the show.
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I've used Silly Putty for masking odd shaped objects for a long time, saw it in SAE tips section and another time in an article. First I was concerned about using Silly Putty because of the silicone in the putty, I was afraid of fish eye, but it's never happened. Now that I've switched to mainly acrylic paints that's not an issue either. I get my Silly Putty at the Dollar store for a buck or less, last I looked it sells for $2 - 3 everywhere else.
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http://t.harborfreight.com/25-liter-ultrasonic-cleaner-95563.html
Harbor Freight, it's the larger of the two that they sell.
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Typically, I try planning the painting whether it's model car, sign work or whatever, working from light to dark colors. That is if it's possible to do so, some times it isn't. Working light to dark determines the extent of airbrush flushing or cleaning between colors. Normally what I do is shoot enough of the reducer through until it comes clean. Paying particular attention to the tip and needle which a quick run run over with a Q-tip is all that's needed. Cleaning the needle and tip will make sure that the next color doesn't sputter shooting out globs instead of the fine atomized mist you're looking for. I used to surgically clean the airbrush between colors until I figured out that it wasn't any better than just a quick clean up like I'm doing now. I leave the surgical cleaning for after the painting is done!
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4-wheel disc brakes? Really?
Yep, quite a few High Horse Power "Purpose Built" Race Cars ran two and four wheel disc brakes in the early 60's timeframe. It wasn't all that uncommon to see "High Dollar" Hot Rods running disc brakes then too, rear wheel disc brakes were less common on the street than the strip.
i suspect the SWC car that Revell modeled this one after is the "Restored/Recreation" of the SWC "Black Willys", if so then it is possible that if the original wasn't running 4 disc's I it may have been added during restoration. I think it's their last Willys which ran a Hemi rather than Olds as did their earlier cars. Time period would be anywhere for original Black Willys would be 70 - 72 or 3 which wouldn't put 4 wheel disc's out of the picture either. (Too lazy to pick through a pile of Popular Hotrodding" magazines at the moment to give you an absolute definite answer.)
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I've watched a few episodes, can't say that's I am a fan of the show or theatrics that they seem to pull because of the producers. The cars are interesting, I'd rather watch it if they would take the racing to a track or other safe racing surface versus "public streets". Not sure if I read it here, hamb, Hot Rod or somewhere else but NHRA watches the show too watching for their own racers street racing; they'd said they'd pull individuals competition license if they saw them Street Racing on the show.
the cars appear to be running former 80's and 90's Pro Stock type Chassis, possibly well designed Pro Street Set Ups. Smaller tired cars are probably either back halved or tied-subframe cars. Most of them look like they're running four link setups. I see a whole lot of these cars running what many of the quicker bracket cars were running just a few years ago, you have some looking like they're backyard homebrewed and others that may have come out of a legitimate race shop at one time.
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At one time JCP Scat-Trac tires were at a whole lot of hot cars, they were cheaper than the Goodyear and Firestone tires, held up pretty well to a whole lot of abuse, with a tread wear guarantee to boot. Penny's automotive departments were a whole lot more performance minded than Sears stores were, Penny's sold mounted and guaranteed mag wheels, Sears wouldn't guarantee them. Penny's sold all kinds of performance stuff like cams, pop up Pistons, headers, ignition stuff like Mallory Duel Point Distributors and more. I had Scat-Trac tires on my '65 GTO and '69 Z-28, I can gaurantee they withstood a ton of abuse, they smoked like crazy!!!
I seem to remember Penny's Automotive Department still operating until about 1982'ish or so.
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Happens all the time when's when an old guy not used to light high power to weight ratio Hot Rod gets on it and loses it, because he's been driving a Prius all week!
the reason that the grill she'll isn't torn up is the impact was taken by a good stout spreader bar which ties the impact directly to the vehicles frame.
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I use my ultrasonic cleaner with lacquer thinner to clean airbrush parts, works well. I have the large tank model that Harbor Freight sells, unheated tank. I'd be a little bit careful using a heated tank with volatile liquids, don't want anywhere near the flash point or vapor point. I use windex for acrylics.
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My question is, do you need the colored glue as in the demo, or can you use Elmers glue or ? Which type of flocking to use, Rayon, Suede?
what I normally do is paint the area to be flocked then tint the Elmer's white glue with the same acrylic paint I just used on the interiors floor.
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When you first posted this one from the title I didn't connect Dallas Cowboys, I was thinking cowboy Camaro. As in what in the world does a Camaro have to do with Cowboys, I was picturing some sort of hideous Cow themed paint scheme!! I think I saw it like about 03:00 hours, I was relieved it wasn't a cow paint scheme and surprised at how nice it looked, great job. (Don't blame me I take my iPad to work, when I work nights. So I can keep up on stuff and not use the taxpayer's computer, don't get in trouble that way!)
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Nice paint, reminds me of Larry Watson's style. Is that engine using the Fisher Crossflow head, the AMT '51 Bel Aire had one in it the last time I built one.
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I've tried the shakers, strainers before as well, if you watch their video of their applicator it appears to be superior to the methods most of us have been using. It's capable of covering sharp corners and intricate shapes, something I can't do that easy shaking the stuff in. That's why I shared it.
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Well Bill,,, you've made me want an aircraft model now!! The Lindberg Gee Bee was one of the models my Uncle and I put together as a kid. I remember now that it was not quite 1/32nd scale, can't remember what plane he got to build but it was true 1/32nd scale, there was a major size difference! You are correct, with a little fiddling it can be turned into a pretty stunning model, I've seen a couple built by talented aircraft modelers.
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Came across a website called "Just Flock It" through Dave Lindsay's So Cal Car Culture links.
They carry flocking in small amounts that would be perfect for model car applications. What really interested me is the applicator it's like a cardboard tube balloon pump, from the how to video it looks like it just shoots the flocking out of the applicator instead of using the small strainer most of us normally use. They say that their small model car size bag, which sells for $2.60 has enough material to cover a square foot of surface (12" X 12"). Even if you didn't use it for models, can be used for automotive uses - glove box relining, woodworking - drawer lining, boxes...
Anyone ever use this brand flocking, looks like the same stuff we've all used. Specifically anyone ever use this type of applicator for flocking? I'm thinking about picking up the applicator for models and some other Christmas stuff. Looked interesting enough to share.
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No.
There are literally thousands of different cars/engines/variations; we can't possibly cover them all here. Best bet is a google image search for the specific engine you're looking for.
Harry, I think the question was more like examples of the mechanics of wiring and plumbing an engine versus specific engine applications. (At least that's the way I interpreted it.)
eBay, Old Kit, Parts & Pieces Pricing, Who's to Blame?
in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Posted · Edited by Skip
You guys have some great input on this, let's keep it going, I mean not letting it denigrate into a bashing match that's not what I intended. Really it's almost a which came first chicken or egg question; who feeds, fuels who?
Is it really as simplistic as, there is a sucker born every minute? Or Asking what ever the market will bear?
Nor is it a swipe at those whom sell kits, parts and pieces on eBay, we hear griping about high eBay pricing on vintage stuff all the time let's use this to help get an understanding of why it is acceptable or not to ask these kind of prices.
Regarding the earlier brittle plastic question/statement, I have purchased a couple of kits which were stripped with who knows what, a Garlits Wynns Jammer with major brittle frame rails, a Model A which I bought specifically for its tires and wheels to use on a Model T Speedster, with spokes so brittle I had to use wheels from another kit. It happens, granted these weren't virgin styrene but they had issues. I learned my lesson and don't buy stuff that the seller or someone else has stripped.