Skip
-
Posts
1,009 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Posts posted by Skip
-
-
Appears to be a much better rendition than one one AMT's other Model A kits the '29 Roadster which had the everything molded into the frame bit engine, front and rear ends. from the instructions it doesn't appear that this kit was any better with the frame molded to the fenders. Looks like you would have to get a Revell Model A pickup or Tudor to make a decent '28 Tudor out of it. The last '29 Roadster that I built On my way! Model A rails went on a Revell chassis. The one thing that stands out is the pose able front end, though somewhat clunky looks like it could be pared down to make a nice front end, though the Revell is better out of the box. Just from the instructions the banger engine looks like it could be enhanced to make a pretty nice Model A 4 Banger, seats look like thy might work in the AMT '32 Vicky. That's a whole lot of money at collector prices for parts or to kit ash a nice '28 when you could take the Revell '31 Tudor, backdate it and have a really nice '28. Just my two cents!
Oh, back to those everything molded into the frame AMT frames, seems like from a tooling standpoint that it would have been a whole lot easier for them to have molded the bare frames on the '29, '32, '34, '36, '40... And molded the wood detail to the bottoms of the interior buckets or even a separate piece. Tooling would have been cheaper to do that way too. Maybe the esteemed Mr. Art Anderson can fill us in on the logic that gave us the everything in one frames.
-
Mr. A.,
You have some amazing skills there Sir!!! Really like what you have done so far.
My only change would be a LaSalle grill.
Now comments.
1. Stance, How about picking up the front 1/16" and the rear 1/8"?
I realize you're going for an aired out bagged look, but things got limits.
2. Interior is excellent so far, if you hadn't already thought about it. How about adding
caps to the inner door and could wrap all the way around, would give proper bullnose
on the doors and a transition to a headliner elsewhere.
-
Fluorescent paints no matter what the medium are almost always really opaque, I am wondering if there are not a large amount of pigment in these paints because of that. I've had some experience with the Vallejo paint line, when I begin using any new (to me) paint line I always use their reducers and any other stuff that the manufacturer recommends I figure their Chemists are a whole lot smarter than me. Most of the acrylic paints have a transparent base, which is the paint without pigment, which would be what I would add to a fluorescent paint in the first place no matter who the manufacturer, then add the reducer to get the flow. You may be getting your Vallejo paints from a dealer who isn't moving their stock quickly enough, you're getting old paint that isn't working like it's supposed to. Try using another source before giving up completely.
In your case I highly suspect what has happened (from experience) is that the transparent base in the paint has somehow evaporated to the point you are left with the pigment and very little base. I've had issues with acrylic metal colors as well, again I suspect that it has to do with opacity as well, the metal or Mylar bits suspended in the base are laying down leaving voids where they should be overlapping and or stacking together so the light is reflected back in an even wavelength. Since I began using Alclad paints I've also began using black under the acrylic metal paints, it just gives a better reflection. Use a white base coat under the fluorescent colors to increase their reflectivity.
-
That is actually a pretty cool piece when you think about the possibilities, not with the model but that the GI Joe figures are 1/6 scale. This alone would make it a very collectible piece for someone who collects GI Joe and similar sized Soldier figures, which there seems to be quite a large following. (Probably all those guys my age or a little older whose Dads were like mine. "No kid of mine is going to play with dolls!!!" And I didn't.). I do see a lot off GI Joe stuff changing hands at the toy shows occasionally, so if you are looking to turn it there is a market. At that scale though the detailing opportunities are huge which would make that a fun model.
-
A few years ago we swapped the inline six for a 390 in my brothers full/scale '53 F100 there's a whole lot of engine bay there the engine wants to sit down too low. We ended up using an aftermarket engine mount, which bolted directly to the frame and used the stock type rubber isolated 390 engine mount on the block side. He is running a C-6 automatic transmission on the rear with a round 3/4" tube transmission mount, also an aftermarket piece. Exhaust at first he ran the stock rear exit manifolds which have since been swapped for headers. All in all it was a pretty easy swap due to the aftermarket mounts. There were no clearance issues at all.
That being said try searching for an FE Series engine swap in an F100 I'm sure that with the still huge following that the '53 - '56 F-100's that there must be a ton of stuff out there.
-
Interesting site, looks like they have a bit of everything on there. I bookmarked it for future reference.
My normal reference for the stuff that I tend to build is the "Little Pages", digest sized versions of Rod & Custom, Car Craft, etc.. I have a pretty extensive collection of Little Pages plus Hot Rod, Rod & Custom, Car Craft and others in the larger Magazine Format. While I don't always remember where an article or car I'm looking for is at, I can usually find it within an hour or so. I like those because when you're looking for "Period Correct" you are certain that it is, versus someone's recollection of what stuff was like.
-
Please, give us a '27 T. Agreed that including the existing engines from midget kits would be a great idea, maybe even a '31/'32 Banger. Look how well the Resin versions sell, if that's any indication a full kit would sell well.
-
That last Coupe in Greg's post #40 is probably one of the nicest in the whole thread so far. Including the American Graffiti Coupe whichever though fairly period correct has some visual flow issues for me, the height of the grill shell looks like it's going down hill. For a whole generation (myself included) the AG Coupe is an Iconic representative of early '60's Hot Rods, so we overlook the styling miscues, even if a serious Hot Rodder's would have tweeked them to look good back then.
Too many decent, well built Nostalgia, Period Correct, Traditional Hot Rods get "Branded" as a Rat Rod because the builder thinks patina and rust looks good. That's what ruins it for me, being raised around Hot Rodders during the early '60's where they cleaned, painted and shined up everything that went on their Hot Rods. Both my Uncles had nice Model A Coupes, (couldn't afford Deuces I guess) from what I remember there wasn't a lick of Rust or caked grease on them, (my brothers and I were enlisted more than once as parts washers, free labor, the price a kid had to pay to hang around in the garage) so maybe that's what ruins it for me.
Like someone posted, it's their car, build it the way you want to; maybe. Hot Rodding has and has had some long standing traditions, ugly flaking, faded paint, heavy rust, holes in bodywork, grease and caked on grime haven't been a part of that picture until lately. Sort of like "Historical Revision" where something didn't happen that way historically, but is changed in the history books because what really happened wasn't politically correct!!
-
Really love that wire trick on those pulleys that one pays off in a big way. Been around a while and have never seen anyone do that one, thanks a lot for sharing. Sometimes the simplest tricks and tweets look better than some of the expensive do-dads!
-
Le Mans Blue has got to be my number one favoritest color on a Comaro White Stripes of any shape go so good with it. This is really turning out nice, paint work shines so sweet, love those wheels. It's gonna be a Beaut when it's finished!
Years ago I owned a Le Mans Blue with White Stripes and Black interior '69 RS SS Z/28 Camaro, one of three cars I've owned that I wish I'd never traded.
-
Interesting tour through the toolies with the aircraft and Non-Mopar Hemispherical Combustion Chambered Power Plants, and now back on topic, sorta.
I can pretty much differentiate between the little Red Ram Hemi and the 392's, everything is pretty much the same to me in scale. The later 426 Muscle Car Hemi is different enough that it is readily apparent that it is the Later Hemi, distributor placement being the first thing I notice.
The early Hemi's are all an interesting and cool alternative to the so often seen early Small Block Chevrolet engines in early and Traditional Hot Rods and Customs. Both the Small Block Chevrolet and Mopar Hemi's were the first OHV Domestic engines that Hot Rodder's could get their hands on in the wrecking yards. This alone is most of the reason that there were so many Go-Fast Goodies for these engines, check out a stack of "Little Pages" and you'll figure that out quickly! Love seeing both Early Hemi's and Small Block Chevy engines in the early Rods.
-
Very nice Art! Very close to Harry's picture, doubt that any two T's off of Henry's Assembly line looked 100% exactly alike when it came to real wood.
I have a wood spoke Model T hub cap and the really tall and fat valve stem cover from one of my Grandfather's Model T's. He told me that the valve stem covers were so large to keep the mud from packing in and around the valve stems, especially the Schrader valves.
With a sly grin he told me a story of driving one of my uncles crazy with that valve stem cover which had a slot in its top to remove the Schrader valve from a valve stem. The cover was just the right size to carry in one's pocket. Nearly every night he would loosen the Schrader valve on his brother's tire until all the air was let out then retighten the valve. Evidently this went on for weeks nearly every morning my uncle would dismount the tire and look for the leak in the tube, finally figuring out he'd been duped. Knowing how mischievous my uncle was I am sure he must have done something in return. I was just doing some dusting in my curio cabinet and ran across the hub cap and valve stem cover, reminding me of that story. Your model reminded me of it too, Thanks!
-
Awesome Abarth, those wheels really made a huge difference. Most anything looks great with the wheel wells filled up!
-
Nice work! Love those rims. Been years since I drove a Rotary engine car, which was a first generation RX-7, (wasn't my car). Even back then the handling for a stock chassis was excellent. The thing I remember most was that Rotary's don't compression brake very well, about as well as a two stroke bike that is.
-
jb, your body looks almost like a Bantam, in fact before I read your post it looked (to me at least) like that's what you were aiming for. Too bad there isn't a bit of a ready source for a Bantam grill shell, that would look great on there.
-
First Mopar, lots of potential, lose the moronic exhaust, finish it right and paint it, the exhaust makes it look more like a "D" Derby car than a Street Rod. Second car, nice old Mopar, those wheels look fine, better than some of th ugly sharp pointed bent spoked looking wheels that are on some cars.
-
The orange color does make things Pop! Another color combination that might look good would be like a "Creamcicle Orange and an Antique Ivory or like a Kawasaki Green with the Green you already have shown both combo's would compliment each other. With the two tone scheme you've shown. Things might Pop better with that scheme if the upholstered top section were either black or an almost black green for the green combo.
Really like the way you did the driveshaft /transmission tunnel, smart piece of work for something that has plagued modelers for eons. I've seen a few different attempts to make believable transmission tunnels with sheet styrene but they always looked clunky.
Good eye for repurposing stuff to make plausible things like the fuel filler and intake, keep up the great work.
-
OK, so this is the AMT Vega Funny Car hat had the cycle wheels on the front right? Always thought their wheel choice was rather odd, as by the Mid-Seventies no one was running a cycle wheel under a Funny Car at the Drags. I built that one in my younger days. You are right, that chassis and body is short and was more suited to building something like a period altered. Same frame went under an AMC Gremlin Funny Car and probably a few others to get their money's worth out of the tooling.
The short body probably distorts things where it looks (in pictures) that the body is "Fat" brought the belt line. Don't see too many modelers take a Funny Car body and return it to Street Stock configuration, you're doing great!
-
Traditional, red, maroon, dark green, Kelly green, Robin's Egg blue, Washington blue, gray, then black, or two color combo's. Black would often be the last color of choice because many Ford wheels came from the factory in black. You are replicating an era where things were customized with contrasting and complimenting paint colors. Wheel colors often were a color that complimented the color of the bodywork, as would any wheel striping or pinstriping of the body. There are a lot more highlight colors than Black, white and Red that everyone is so enamored with these days!
-
There was a news story about this on one of the Seattle Stations. PayPal was indeed considering the Robo-Call Pestering of their customers/users. From what the news said about it. PayPal received so much negative feedback from members calling them directly, it tied up their switchboards for quite awhile. From the story it sounded like both eBay and PayPal both would encounter a huge hit on their membership numbers, based on that feedback; right now it's doubtful that PayPal will engage in Robo-Calling its members in the near future. Probably subject to change depending on the way they feel the next week!
-
Nice work, love your Minilites those are turning out as nice as your stuff always does. I always thought that body was a tad bit fat in the belt-line.
Never owned a Vega, however I participated in putting small Block's in five or six of them. The mechanics at the VW Dealer I worked at would buy them when they were traded in, most were heavy smokers by the time they got traded, on like a "Push, Pull of Drag In " Promo that would get like a $1,000 Credit on a new VW. Those early skinny bumper Vega's were the easiest to do the conversion. I think the first two or three of them used the Harwood Kit, pretty well thought out kit had everything needed to put a Small Block in it including headers and radiator. Now Small Block Ford in a Pinto, another story all together, I don't remember the kit manufacturer but I do remember being way less than impressed! I still have nightmares about that one, owner probably does too, he wrapped it around a telephone pole in the rain, lucky he walked away from it. He left (abandoned) the Pinto motor which he had put a ton of money into, he had a pair of 40 Webber DCOE's hanging off the side, which ended up on a carb'd '76 Rabbit motor which ran better than second '77 or '78 Rabbit GTI. Gas Crunch Hot Rods!
-
Thanks Bill, I knew the Revell Bus didn't have them, was wondering if any of the Japanese kits had them. Shouldn't be too difficult to "carve" something up with the Dremel to make a reasonable facsimile.
-
Do any of the VW Bus / Type II models come with the Gear Reduction Axle Boxes?
I sort of have a hair brained idea of using a pair on a Hot Rod to go even lower. One could feasibly set up a Ford Banjo Rear End with a set of gear reduction boxes flipped to drop another four inches. Not to mention the fact that these boxes had a variety of gear sets available and could essentially be set up in an overdrive like a Quick Change Rear could.
-
Looks like it seriously needs more tire, wheelie bars and playing around with weight disrribution. Awesome to have power but when you cannot put it to the ground without spinning the tires enough that it appears to be fouling out on nearly every run, that just might be a little issue! Then again back in my VW days nobody was running Turbo's either!
1935 LaSalle convertible coupe - 3d printed at home Aug. 30
in WIP: Model Cars
Posted
That's really amazing, never thought I'd see anything like this happening when I got back into modeling. Strikes me as funny though when I hear people complaining about a little flash, mold lines, mismatch and other junk when lots of us would readily put up with a lot of this if we were able to build a 3D printed piece of something never kitted. For that matter look at some of the resin blobs, (some of which made slush cast parts look great) that a lot of Modelers in Europe have been turning into nice models for years