Skip
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Posts posted by Skip
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Those wheels look great on that Corvair!
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Nice, love that color. Real or not that real one is nice enough that no one in their right mind would change a thing!
Local to me is a Camaro that same color, an older couple owns it (in their 70's or 80's). I've seen it several times at cruise nights it is an SS trim level, with a Six Cylinder, Four Speed, Ralley Pack Gauge Console, Black Interior. It's got everything on it that one would love on a V8 Camaro. I talked to the couple one night, addressing the man first he just pointed to his wife and told me it's her car she's the one who bought it. Turns out that she took the brochure / catalog home and marked everything she wanted on her Camaro, then went back to the dealer and "Special Ordered" it! She told me she can't drive it without at least one person trying to buy it!! I'll bet!
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I'm liking what you're doing and where you're going with this one. Far too many of us are afraid to step out of the box and do frames, it's your build so I'm not going to critique your design. I like your concept, the original model was really nice, I think the finished Roadster you're building has the potential to be really stunning! Love the 409, "W" heads are Cool!
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That turned out really nice! Just goes to show that something someone else might have made some sorta "Rat Rambler" out of can be rubbed the right way to look as good if not better than it was supposed to the first time around!
I sort of have a soft spot for Rambler Americans, my Dad had a '60 and a White'65, the '65 lost the "R" on the back so it was the ultra rare "ambler American"! It was like that when my Dad got it, he traded it for a '63 VW Bug, (I think he even made $50 on the deal).
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How do you build or even work on stuff when you're on nights? (6 PM - 6AM) after getting 7 - 8 HRs sleep that leaves 1 hour at the most of bench time during the week, maybe 3 - 4 Hours on Saturday and Sunday.
Got word on Friday my contractor on a large Bridge Project is going on nights through the first of the he year. (No happy face here!).
The last bout on nights a year ago, I couldn't get motivated for anything to get my tired bunz up to the bench even to build for someone else. As was I just barely made my deadline of my nephew's birthday. Same nephew approached me a week or so ago to build a '53 F-100 for my brother who is having his full size F-100 restored. I agreed to do the work with first week of December delivery. Now I start nights tonight and am already getting ready to go panick mode! Never missed a delivery date, this could be the first!
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Which makes the whole "torn up when it arrives" thing even more weird. I mean, the magazines that are delivered to your LHS also went through the same process as the ones that individual subscribers' magazines go through... right?
How is it weird? The magazines are being torn up in the mail by their handling equipment, not by the publishing process. I would imagine that the magazines are sent to the hobby shop either in a bundle or container not individually, so that isn't a real valid argument for the same processing.
FYI - I wasn't whining about bagging. Merely pointing out that there are methods of protecting the magazines through the mail. Other "small run" magazines are already doing something to protect their product.
The local hobby shop which is a half hour away sells out of Model Cars and SAE nearly as soon as they arrive. Barnes and Noble is just around the corner from the LHS, I've never seen a copy of Model Cars there ever. So picking up a copy at either store isn't a real great answer either.
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The cheaper acrylic paints have less pigment in them than some of the other higher quality brands. You can get good results with them by building thin coats with a very soft brush. The cheaper, lower quality craft acrylics are prone to brush marks, try a lower end flat watercolor brush just dampened with a little water and see how you can get it to lay down.
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No, but a few of the magazines I referred to, such as Bob Bond's "Auto Art" magazine have a way smaller subscription number and it comes bagged every month. I've run across other small run magazines who are doing the same thing, it's not that uncommon, nor is it an unreasonable request for a publisher to ensure their readers get a readable copy each and every month. Instead of poo poo'ing requests and suggestions why not look into what the cost actually is rather than questioning someone's intelligence.
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Subscribe to Slot Cars Magazine. Ours is shipped in a plastic bag!
Just saying.....Well I don't understand when you put out a nice, specialty magazine like Model Cars and they cannot throw in a 5 or 10 cent bag to place it in to safely go through the mail. I subscribe to a few art and auto art type magazines two different Mini magazines from UK, they don't charge anything for the plastic bag it comes in every month. I've never had one of these magazines come through the mail damaged or torn ever. The magazines that do come through the mail naked regularly are torn, including Model Cars magazine.
I keep most of my magazines, nearly all of them for reference material, so when I receive them in less than good condition it makes me wonder why I'm not just buying them off the newsstand, if I could find it that is! (Which is why I subscribed in the first place.)
Jairus, I haven't come across your Slot Cars Magazine on any newsstand yet, which is how I normally buy the first three or four issues to make sure it's a good fit with my interests. I applaud you guys for spending the extra quarter or less that it costs to protect the magazine.
Last time I mentioned this problem I was met with a, "it's not Gregg's call it's the publisher who makes that call". OK, so how to the other bagged magazines get bagged then if the people producing them aren't telling the printer to bag them so they are not shredded in the mail?
Sorry for a longish rant post, when you pay a fair price for a great magazine I think you should be able to expect that the printer and or producer does what it takes to get it into the subscribers hands in good condition. I'm not the only one with this problem either as I've noticed others bring up the same problem.
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In addition ion to Andy's suggestions for the Sterilite Clear Plastic Shoe Boxes, these are great to place opened "in work" model kits. I've used these for some time, with the original model box it is possible to lose small parts, with the clear plastic shoe boxes the probability that a small part is going to go missing is much smaller. Plus it is easy to have multiple models in work, using this method. Once you begin building up an inventory of the shoe boxes you can then start placing kit bashing projects into them, as you are hunting for needed parts for the project. You're less likely to "rob" a part for another project if it's in an in work box. You can also use them to store extra or spare parts.
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Wow Drew, that is jaw droppingly awsome! Beautiful job, the flathead makes it look so much more "period correct". Must have been tempting to put a Deuce grillshell in place of the Model A shell, both would be correct for the time period.
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I've used used the Createx, Wicked Colors, Autoair and a few other brands of acrylics through airbrush's for successfully some time. Someone gave me some of the Aztek paints a while back I used them once and ended up gifting them to another airbrush artist friend. I thought that they were on the thin side also, requiring changes to air pressure and technique to lay down correctly. The other issue I had was that the colors were overly opaque even laying them down over white; in defense of the Aztek paint I was given, I have no idea right now whether they were opaque colors or not. They just didn't work for the project that I was doing at the time.
You really owe it to yourself to learn the how and whys of any particular paint system you intend to use. Createx makes a great tutorial DVD (you can pick up at Hobby Lobby right with the paint) as do others, look up Airbrush Action, Createx, Wicked colors... and airbrushing on You Tube. There are lots of airbrush and custom painters out there who are willing to share their hard gained knowledge about successfully using Acrylics, Enamels, Lacquers and any other paint systems you can think of. Good thing is that it's not like it used to be where Custom Painters did everything in secret, never sharing anything about their techniques, if they did chances they were leaving out some critical step. You almost literally had to pay to get any information!
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This looks like an application for vacuum forming a new pair of light covers out of thin clear sheet. You will be using the original covers to make the vacuum forming bucks. This is similar to what the aircraft modelers have been doing forever. The formed parts will have the thin formed clear cover that you are looking for; assuming that was what you were asking in your original version of the question. There should even be a You Tube tutorial or two on how to vacuum form clear model parts out there look up model aircraft canopies.
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I'd agree with the Elmer's glue (white) versus a latex based masking fluid. You will be able to remove the Elmer's glue in large pieces with a toothpick. The masking fluid needs friction to rub off or they make a "special" eraser to remove it, I can see it removing "green" or soft paint with it. I use the masking fluid all the time painting watercolor paintings, if you're not careful with the stuff it can take chunks of paper with it, so paint is no match.
there is another way around this issue, foil casting. Where you use a small piece of regular kitchen foil to make a crisp impression of the emblem. Next use either epoxy (glue) or epoxy resin to fill and cast the impression of the emblem in the foil. The next step is irreversible, you will be removing the emblem off of the car body completely, if it ghosts when you paint that's ok will help you locate better. Once cured the foil is removed, the back sanded flush then you can go one of two directions here. One would be to cover the casting with BMF, trim and clean up the foil and superglue the emblem in place. Two paint the casting with alclad or similar metalizer paint, glue the emblem onto the body using superglue, make sure to keep the glue away from the paint or it will remove the chrome effect.
**Disclamer: This is a pretty easy skill to learn for some, works correctly the first tile in most if not all cases. Since this will permanently remove the emblem off of the model's body, practice on something else first, then make multiple castings of the emblem in case the resin copy breaks. I've used this multiple times in the past and never had issues with it. It's an old trick that didn't originate with me. Hope this helps.
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Here's what I have:
Not sure what kit they are from but that's the bare red plastic color. I haven't painted them.
reading throu SAE Issue # 106 the '32 Ford issue, those wheels are probably from the '32 Victoria released as kit no T177 from 1972 "Vintage Fire Chief".
I thought I remembered ithe '32 Vicky being issued as some sort of Fireman car, so when I saw it this morning it clicked. Hope this Jared your memory as well.
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Art, Looks like the Winfield head in the Rat Rod version, at least it's th same head as the Red Hot Rod version had. Both have such thick chrome that the Winfield can't be read if it's there.
Part B of the question: Do any of the aftermarket Resin Casters do the Riley Head in Resin? Since you're going to have to strip the chrome off of the head anyway you might as well start with a clean casting.
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Funny thing is that when I first started using rattle can lacquer based automotive primer on models this was never an issue. I highly suspect that the underlying issue is the styrene / plastic being used in the models we are getting now. If you read some of the articles Hank Borger and others penned for Car Mod l and Model Car Science where they were using lacquer paints and primers there is literally no mention of "ghosting" "crazing" of the plastic. Totally frustrating when using the same techniques used for years and having poor results from them, the purple pond is your friend in this case!
Apply the primer in thin coats and allow it to fully cure until the next thin coat, (dehydrator works well for this). Build thin coats up until you have enough to level he surface off then sand with 800 -'1000 grit. If the color coat has any lacquer in it at all then you will need to slowly build your color coat up until there is sufficient color coat to polish out. Same goes for clear coat, mist the coats on until you have a decent amount of clear built up, then if you need to you can probably get away with a heavier coat. It wouldn't hurt while you are at it to apply a thin coat of future or acrylic spray between plastic and primer.
The issue is that the lacquer in the primer is staying volatile because all the solvents are not fully evaporated off, once the surface flashes off then the solvents are trapped. The ghosting we see is probably the result of the solvents trying to find a way out, can't get through all the paint so it tries to go through the plastic swelling the plastic and we see ghosting. If you try to lay down a heavy coat of primer, unless you get really lucky on top of the ghosting you will see crazing of the plastic. Ive always heard this condition called "Lacquer Burn" which is a good term for it because it can cause the plastic itself to become brittle.
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That's coming out really nice, '37 - '40 Ford Coupes are really difficult to get the proportions down exactly right as in its not really a measurement thing it's a looks right thing. Looks like you've got the "Looks Right Thing" down pat!
ive seen a '40 chopped, they added the material in the middle of the roof to stretch it, never looks right proportionally. Chopping is supposed to make the car look sleeker, not clunky like some do.
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Well, looks love you've got a start. Also looks like a case of lacquer burn to that plastic too, might have to do a skim coat of filler to bury it, seems to come back like ghosting emblems. When you prime it make sure that you build it up in thin coats, (I've had it happen with primer by trying to do a heavy first coat). For me the trick is to get the primer flashed off and then dried very quickly.
Back to your Forty, what are you doing for an engine? If the Buick Nailhead is still there it cleans up really well for '60's Nostalgia style if you use the triple carb version, the "Custom" Racing exhaust headers can be cleaned up and trimmed off to meet up with the dual exhaust systemm and looks good. Flathead can be cleaned up as well, maybe toss in a resin intake and some hi-compression heads, again use or fabricate a dual exhaust and you have another winning combo. Dressed up small block Chev, Olds, Caddy, Y-block all would look great in that engine compartment as well. Keep this one going, it's off to a great start!
I have an AMT 40 Coupe on my bench right now too, Buick engine, Modelhaus Chrome Reverse wheels whitewall slicks and fronts, dechromed dropped front axle, no hood, went with a teal green which is close to a stock 40 color. Done up '60's Hot Rod style, simple understated forty.
For a model kit that's been around since the early 60's it can be built up to make a really nice 40 DeLuxe, same with the Tudor Sedan.
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This is Model Cars Mag forum.... right?
MCM magazine hit my mail box today.
You all should receiving it very soon.
Sounds like we have the same mailman, or maybe brothers! Most of the time our mailman gets everything in the box. Just likes to shred everything as he's putting it in there, probably reasons that it fits better. Not kidding either, this guy regularly tears the cover off of magazines, large, small it doesn't matter. I suspected that it was just lousy handling along the way, until the last issue of Rod &Custom had 75% of the back cover torn off, there were parts of cover wedged between the wall and floor section of the box!! To his defense he is running two Rural Mail Routes and the post office isn't hiring anyone so everyone is running their bunz off!!
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R & M of Maryland, is the bar that all other resin casters are measured by. Norm is busy every time I've ordered from him, that's a good thing too he is able to support his small business with our orders. You get your order in, get in line in the orders while Norm casts each to order. You are getting fresh resin cast parts every time. Normal turnaround is 3 - 6 +/- weeks depending on backlog ahead of your order.
Norm's quality control is 110+% great, flash is zero to none or about what you'd expect from styrene. I normally like to order with a larger order every time figuring if I'm going to make an order that it may as well be worth Norm's time, ($150 +) per order. I figure that if we don't support the really good resin casters well that they will go under just like too many of the early guys did. Not to mention, Norm is just plain good, honest people who stands behind his work!
In fact I have an order in the mail right now, should be here by Monday. I'm beginning to salivate already!!
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Even if you put them on eBay you could always scan them and send the scan to the Drastic Plastic site so they can get them online. I've been helped in the past by the hosted instruction sheets so I'm a big proponent of helping the clubs who host them.
BTW In the tips section I have started a thread with links to Revell and Drastic Plastic's Instruction Sheets, so if you have any more links to clubs or manufacturers who have instructions online add them please.
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Absolutely love the look of an Un-Chopped Model T Coupe, for some reason they look better to me than one with a Mailbox Slot Chop, they don't look all that bad with a real mild chop say 4 - 6 inches. Like the purple glass sets it apart, gives it a '60's flavor as do the wheels and tires, they would set this one apart as a higher end built Hot Rod of say magazine quality. Just like now custom wheels cost a bit go money which is why you see so many Hot Rods even really nice ones running Chrome Reverse Wheels. Your stance looks right on the money! Keep it up on this one.
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Please include any links to copies of model car instructions whether on the Manufacturer's Website such as the ones on Revell's website.
Suggest that if you have instructions laying around that you contact the Clubs who host them on their websites to see what kind of format they accept copies of instruction sheets. Helps us all out.
Revell/monogram/Hobico - http://www.revell.com/support/instructions.html
Drastic Plastic Model Car Club - http://public.fotki.com/drasticplasticsmcc/mkiba-build-under-c/
Air brushing help
in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Posted
I was just going to mention that, I've had static electricity pull paint right off of a paint brush, string together atomized paint off of an airbrush nozzle so that it cobwebs the paint onto the surface being painted. Unless you have some sort of elaborate grounding system dreamed up I wouldn't even consider plexiglass for an enclosure. Just pulling air across the surface of plexiglass or even fiberglass will build up enough static to cause problems. The more air you pull the higher the chance you're going to build static. One major problem not mentioned yet with the static is attracting tons of dust that can get transferred to the fresh paint!
if it were me building an enclosure to spray paint in I would consider using plywood, MDF, or sheet metal. I am running a Paasche sheet metal paint booth, I run a ground strap off of the booth itself, since doing so I haven't had any issues with static while spraying any plastic, fiberglass or plexiglass items.
Pressure Regulator, consider adding an inline type regulator with gauge just before the reducer to the smaller airbrush line for fine tuning without having to go back and forth to the compressor.
Water Trap, add one just ahead of the pressure regulator. Even small amounts of water in an airbrush will give you fits an hour extra water trap is cheap insurance.