MrObsessive

Dan, glad I was able to help! I LOVE that color and it's lookin' great!

Alright, alright!

You're right Rob! As someone who does like the vintage cars such as the tri-five Chevy's and whatnot-----I do like a lot of the modern cars that are out there too. For instance, I'd love to see a new Charger. Since the current one was restyled for 2011, and then mildly redone for '15, we have yet to see any kits of the cars, despite there could be plenty of police options for them. ANY new Cadillac would be nice-------from the ATS to the Escalade. A new full detailed Mustang. There's a front end restyle coming for '18, so it would be nice to FINALLY get a full detail kit of this car and not just a very basic snapper. This may sound weird, but I like the new for '18 Chevy Traverse that's hitting the roads now. Of course, it's no tire screecher, but its style is unique for a CUV, and it definitely should be a good seller for Chevy. I could go on, but those are just a few..........

Correct John! When it comes time to dig into this, below those character lines is where I want to make my cuts. More than likely I'll get rid of them and redo 'em. The character line should be parallel with the upper part of the rear fender trim. Looking at your side shot of the 1:1, the upper part of the trim is in fact perfectly horizontal from nose to tail. No slant whatsoever. I would be completely scrubbing the side trim anyway and reconstructing that. I found out that gold cake decorating foil (they make silver too) has the perfect pattern for recreating the anodized aluminum on the sides. At least that's my take on things........................for now.

Ok, this is as far as I'll go with the engine. I didn't want to put the fan on as I don't wan't any trouble with clearance/interference issues when it comes time to get the body and chassis together. There are some touch-ups here and there that'll I'll do down the road when it comes to final installation. This was pretty neat to do, and it's the first time I've put together something that was 3D printed. I've said all along, this is the coming wave and future for model building. As subject matter becomes more esoteric and not something the major kit makers are not willing to spend tooling dollars on, there's always the prospect of us out here in the hinterlands learning what it takes to make a printable file, and literally make our own parts/bodies right on our worktable. Couldn't resist the Fram Oil filter decal! Air cleaners just placed on for the time being. I need to find a way to make a more positive location for them. Ugggh! Don't get me started on this '58 Plymouth body! As we mentioned above there are so many things wrong it would take too long to type out all the problems and fixes. A while back I did monkey around with the passenger side as far as the C pillar (it was too wide) is concerned, and in pencil drew a line where the upper part of the trim should be. Also, you can see where I separated the roof from the A pillar. It's too low, and needs to be raised about a scale inch or so. It'll be quite a while though before I get to fully working on this one! Thanks for following along everyone! Not everyone will agree with my take on 3D printing, but I'm standing by my thoughts on how it truly can be a real breakthrough in getting parts/bodies made that are either unobtainium, or too esoteric for kit manufacturers to tool up. Now to put this somewhere to safeguard it from "cat accidents"!

If someone has a low feedback (between 1-10) I'd like to give them the benefit of the doubt. We all had to start new at some point with eBay, and I remember the first thing I ever won-------the old IMC Dodge L-700 which I still have and haven't tackled yet! But with this character, the very low price was a giveaway-----and the fact that it was a "Buy It Now" and not a regular auction raised my "beware" antenna quite high.

I'm hoping that Revell at least gives the option for the street Hemi this time around. When I built mine (the original release) I had to rob parts out of my '67 Plymouth GTX kit to get the correct air cleaner, and intake/exhaust manifolds. We'll soon see........that is one of Revell's best kits and it builds up pretty much with no fuss.

Greg, when you go into your original post, you hit "edit" and near the top of the page, you'll see the fields where you typed in your topic. You can change the info in that, and then hit submit. The changes should be reflected on the forum pages for everyone to see. If you're adding to what you want in your WIP, just make a post like you normally would, and then after you post that--------go and edit the date or whatever in your first (original) post. Hope this helps!

Just want to give you guys a heads up as there's yet another eBay scammer I've run across. I surf the vintage section of eBay pretty regularly, and the other day I happened to notice a very clean built '61 Lincoln Continental for a "Buy It Now" price of $15 and free shipping------------coming from China. I said "No way....that's GOT to be a typo"! I got nosy and watched the auction as I wanted to see if they either would make a "correction" or someone in their excitement would buy it without thinking. I was even telling someone at work about it and even though they're not a model hobbyist, they right away saw it as a scam. About an hour later when I went to check on the auction, POOF it was gone. No trace of it, nothing in the completed auctions........ZILCH. I even "followed" the seller as something seemed fishy and this individual has a ZERO feedback and literally just joined. There was nothing in their completed auctions as well. OK........... Just this morning, I'm cruising the vintage section again, and I see a Johan '69 Road Runner very nicely built for $18 coming once again from China with free shipping. I thought, OK---------whoever this is, they're trying to run a scam, and I can bet you eBay will yank that one too. I put it in my watch list, and as of a little while ago, POOF it was gone too. Nothing in the completed auctions section, and the "seller" had changed their handle slightly, but I'm quite positive it was the same person. Their handle is all kinds of letters and numbers-----no definitive words or anything, and they're based in China. Not to knock the Chinese, bad folks are everywhere! Just be on the lookout.........you know the old saying "If it's too good to be true, then it probably is". To the newbies, watch out------the sharks are out there..........

I'm hoping for that Boat Tail Riviera too! That's one IMO that's begging to be done as a 2'n'1, particularly if there's lowrider setup like they did with the '60 Chevy. That is one of those cars requested a number of times on Revell's "Wish List" from the NNL East that I posted a while back.

Really?? 'Cuz I have this kit (1:1 red car on the box art), and mine has the standard bumper in it. Perhaps there was a running change later on and I got one of the early ones? EDIT: It's essentially a parts kit now as I used the chassis and engine in it to do the '64 442 which I never finished. I got the kit new and the regular bumper is still on the chrome tree however.

Well Josh, as we've mentioned-----you've got some work cut out for you. If you're not skilled in scratchbuilding what you need, you can always get in touch with the fellow who has the Shapeways page and see if he'll make those with 3D printing. This subject has come up before in past years and since the kit is recently reissued, I'm sure others would like the same thing.

Well, I don't know how accurate you want to be, but there's more to the RS front end than just the headlight doors. The grille is quite different from the standard '69 Camaro as it is not quite as "V" shaped. As I mentioned, I don't know how picky you want to be, but in 1/12 scale the difference would be quite obvious. And yes, as you mentioned-----the doors slide to the left and right, not up and down like other hidden headlamps of the day. I thought about trying this sometime as I had an idea, but too many other projects are now in my list and I don't know when if ever I'd get to do this.

Good job in correcting the kit's shortcomings Randy! That's always bugged me about the side trim on that one as I've never seen a W-30 with it. Oh! And you fixed the incorrect front bumper! Woefully lacking in the kit is the obligatory bumper "air ducts". I think this is an underrated kit (particularly the convertible sibling) as it's VERY detailed as it was done during the Mueller era, and I don't see many built be it the W-30, or the regular Cutlass. BTW, did Olds make a '66 W-30 convertible? I just got a modeling idea............. I need to rescue that '64 first though before I dig into that one!

Josh, you're talking about the headlamp "doors". I know of no one that makes that part...........that might be something that'll have to be scratchbuilt, or the doors done in PE (photoetch). Model Car Garage makes a PE set for that 1/12 Camaro, but he doesn't carry the doors on the fret. (I checked) As Tom just commented, that shouldn't be too hard to make. It's a fairly simple part shape wise as there are no compound curves to it. Hope this helps!

To each his own as they say.... I like to build engines (if the kit came with it----a lot of resins don't) because as Wayne mentioned above, the engine can be the signature of the car. Be it a Hemi, Flathead, Buick Nailhead, I like to build the engine particularly from the era when engines defined a car. Gone are the days when each make (particularly within GM) had its own distinct identity engine wise. I like to replicate that as much as possible, right down to the correct firing order if need be. And yes, I plead guilty as one of those that display the car with the hood by its side! You can see the engine and all the detail better that way.

Gotta disagree with you there Mike. I don't want hijack this thread, but the engine in the '58 Plymouth kit is not correct at all as far as the heads are concerned. It's almost a mix of a Poly-Head and the 350 Commando. The kit's distributor is in the rear of the intake manifold (correct for a Poly), but as Martin said Christine's distributor was in the front----correct for a 350 as you have pictured above. The valve covers in the kit are definitely for a 350 Commando. Also, Christine had a dual quad intake.......every 350 I've seen had this setup (350's were optional for '58 Furys), but I'm no Mopar expert so there might have been some single quads made. As Martin's doing, he's reversing the intake manifold to put the distributor in the front, and adding the extra carb which the kit lacks. Just a little tip Martin------since you're going to use the kit pretty much as is with the intake reversed, I'd offset the distributor to the left (passenger side) just a bit. It's up to you as it's your build though.

John, you know that I'm not a custom kinda guy, but I REALLY LIKE THIS! Besides that fact that it's also a '58 Ford (one of my '50's favorites), makes it all the better! Can't wait till you get to the paint! Ron, I like '57's too, but they always had the appearance of "looking up at you" as opposed to the '58!

John, my idea for fixing the RC2 body was similar, but my approach was to do something like what I did with the AMT's '68 Road Runner. Pretty much what I'd do is slice the fenders along the lower part of the trim, slice along the top of the rear fenders along the surround for the deck lid (that's also too low and at a wrong angle), and "lift" everything up a scooch to match what you have on your bottom picture. That would preserve that lower crease and leave the lower quarter panels with the correct up-sweep. The roofline more than likely I'd totally detach (like I did with the '59 Chevy), and reshape that to Johan's profile. Also, I'd have to raise RC2's roof a bit 'cuz of course that's too low. Your middle picture of the 1:1? I have that EXACT picture which is a dead on perfect side shot of that car!. This WIP will be as, if not the most intense re-engineering project I think I'll ever take on! This car is too important to me just to sit and build with the body as is.......it's an important design, and not to beat a dead horse, it's a crying shame that even Round 2 won't see fit to redo this car correctly.

I'm now on the downside to getting this done. I wanted to give the upper pulley a little more definition in its groove, so I very carefully held the part in my Dremel, and taking some folded up #400 grit sandpaper, defined the groove a scooch more on my Dremel's slowest speed. This is where I ran into a bit of a roadblock.........The generator in the car sits quite forward in relation to everything else. Naturally, the pulley needs to be lined up with the other pulleys as much as possible, and this is where I had to brainstorm a bit. Another thing I realized, is that there's going to have to be some kind of mounting point for the generator's upper bracket arm. Here I drilled a #76 drill bit in to the end of some .040" square rod and sliced a tiny piece of it off. This was then CA glued into the little groove that's on the generator. Here I'm going to use a brass rivet with a brass bolt on the one end to act as a support for the PE generator arm. I'll have to put one on the other end of it once the arm is in place. I had to add a bit more material to the molded in lower bracket as I'll want to pin this to the exhaust manifold-----where it mounts on the actual engine. Doug had told me he molded the bracket extra long as this would ensure that the generator sits where it should. As you can see here, I CA glued bead wire practically near the edge of the bracket. Once again, I want to make sure things line up. Here you can see the tiny holes I drilled into the exhaust manifold to make more of a positive location for the generator. Test fitting things here before I paint.........so far so good....... I'm probably going to lean the generator a bit more to the engine's center, so it'll minimize any interference with the kit's engine bay when I get around to building it. After I get everything painted and mounted, at this point I think this is where I'll stop. I don't want to add the supplied fan as of yet as I'm not sure exactly where the engine's going to sit in the engine bay. I could mount the fan, but then later on if there's interference due to the fan being too far forward, or where the radiator is going to sit----------------I'll just have to rip everything apart anyway. The same goes for the starter. I'll need the transmission mounted up before I can do that, and that's something I'll wait until I go full force into the entire build of the kit before getting into all of that. Sooooo............it's back to work tomorrow, which means off to bed early. So much for wanting to finish this by this weekend, but hey........this is coming along too well to mess it up! Thanks for lookin'!

I'll second that!! Absolutely GORGEOUS bike!!

Well, then I guess I got to go and get rid of all my WIP threads over the past 11 years, because heck---------they're 'too wordy" and picture heavy! Seriously though..........I know not everyone is into my way of building, and not everyone has the patience or skill to do what I do. However, I could never go on said forum (here or somewhere else) and literally rip someone else's work to shreds because "Well, I just don't like it and it's a waste of space". How do you know the person you were referring to didn't see that?? Huh?? I'm not that big into trucks but I can sure appreciate all the work that goes into it. Not to mention there's always a hint or two that I never knew anything about that I can pick up on. Sorry..........this forum's not here to give someone else grief because an individual doesn't like it. You could always just ignore it and move on.

I would paint your white first, and then paint the pink over that. You always want to start with the lightest colors first...........it'll greatly minimize any problems (bleed through) doing it this way. Hope this helps!

You ain't kiddin! I was watching a 1/8 scale '79 Trans Am kit on eBay and for days it stayed at $76.00. I thought about bidding on it, and figured the price would easily end up in the $200+ range. The last day of the auction, the price shot up to $355-----with the $81 shipping, I said no way! The auction ended after I went to bed, and when I got up in the morning to check it, the ending price was well over $400!! So they could literally start those auctions at 1¢ and they could still end up at a price that's in the stratosphere!

Both of you are most welcome! I know that glass issue is a sore spot for a lot of guys with this kit. I can understand what Moebius was trying to do as this is how the 1:1 is done. Still, for those that are unfamiliar with this type of construction, it can be a bit daunting. If you need anymore help with this (the 8 lug wheel offset bugged me too), feel free to drop me a line.