MrObsessive

Ditto on the redhead! (I'm gonna get in trouble for this! )

Allen, the problem from the start is the body wasn't designed/tooled correctly. '57-'58 Plymouth Furys have trim that should be dead on straight from nose to fin. If you look at the kit body....especially from a rear ¾ view, you can see the body has a definite "banana" shape or bend to it. On that particular body style, the tailfins actually start just behind the doors-----and bump up towards the rear. RC2's kit has a downward slope rendering the trim to follow this body line which makes it all the more awkward. Some in the past had said that the 1:1's trim was not actually lined up.............we're not talking alignment, but an actual curve to the beltline itself. I was told by someone who worked at AMT that this kit was being tooled right around the time RC2 stepped in. Whoever took over didn't/wouldn't take the time to make sure the body was correct..........they just put it out there as is, and the result is what you see to this day. I'm a bit passionate about this car as my Dad had a '57 many years ago..........so I can remember the car quite well, and when I first saw the box art when the car was intro'd I knew it was all wrong. Hope this helps! Edit: Just as an aside, the roof isn't quite correct either as it has a definite "chop" to it. That can be subjective though, but if I were building it, I'd want to fix that too!

Ditto what Dave said, but I'll use BMF for masking off the areas I want to paint in black. It'll give a nice defining edge just as if you were using BMF for chrome. Tamiya's semi-gloss is a good paint, as well as a paint sold in some train shops called Polly Scale Engine Black which is what I use. It has a very nice sheen which leaves no brush marks after you hand paint it. HTH!

Yeah that's the stuff...........it should work. I would test a small portion in a mixing jar or something, and add a few drops to see what it will do. You want to check to make sure it won't "fisheye" on you when applying it in larger amounts. Maybe test it out on a plastic spoon or something to be on the safe side.

Looks like paint incompatibility to me. Are you sure the Rustoleum is a true enamel? More than likely it's an acryiic enamel, and it can almost always be a disaster to put a "hot" paint such as acrylic enamel, or lacquer over a regular enamel. I'm afraid you're going to have to strip that one clean, and start over.

I totally agree! I've been doing that for years now..........

I built the Pro-Modeler kit years ago, and I don't remember it having a stock '69 Charger grille. There was a brass PE set for the tiny grille that goes on the nose cone however.

Well I was born in '61 and I do remember seeing a lot of those cars on the streets as a kid. I'm not so sure that I'd want one as a daily driver today though. Nostalgia is nice, but there's something to be said for competent brakes, safety, handling, etc..........

Pegasos originate from Spain IIRC..............very rare even when new and even more so today!

Are you using the regular Easy Off and NOT the "Fume Free" junk? I've used the regular Easy Off (yellow can) in the past and it's never been a problem for me. Unfortunately, it may have been changed as more companies try to be "environmentally friendly".

This is one of the key reasons I've suggested in the past, painting your body LATER than before assembly! I recommend building everything up first, then painting your body after you've figured out the ins and outs of fitting the body with the least drama. I know it's easier to paint the body first, but trust me-------you'll save yourself a LOT of headaches (and heartaches) if you get the assemblies done first, then as the engine, interior and chassis are coming along------you're test fitting the body the whole time. When it's to your satisfaction, then paint the body. You can always start on another project while the paint is drying----------at least when it's all done and polished out, you'll have figured out how to get the body on without ruining a good paint job with gouges, scratches, etc.

I second that!!

That one is real-------the roofline is a dead giveaway as opposed to the 1/25 kit.

That is one very CLEAN model for someone who's been away at this for so long! Very nice paint I might add and it sits like it should.

In the '60's and '70's there were at least FIVE hobby shops in the area that I can think of.......possibly more. And that doesn't include the Mom and Pop corner stores and pharmacy places that sold models. Now we're down to just one--------Kranzel's Hobby Shop in Camp Hill. He's got a good number of kits, but he also focuses heavily on RC which is where the money is for him. About 35-40 miles down the road from me in Gettysburg, is a train shop called Tommy Gilbert's which has THE BEST detailing need for those of us that are in to superdetailing our models. A lot of train stuff translates into model cars, and Tommy carries all of the plastic stock and brass you'd need to detail something to the max. He can also order the PE items if he doesn't carry them. He's my go-to guy when I'm out of super small brass tubing, bolt heads, brass sheet, etc. For those of you into trains--------you won't be able to leave without spending some bucks on something his selection is so vast.

Virg, ain't that the truth!

Welcome Ed! I'm not much of a street rod fan, but I really DO like that one! Are those actual metal pipes bent for the exhaust? They sure look mighty realistic!

:lol: :lol:

That was hilarious at times! Shouldn't the animated Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite have had an English accent though??

That's definitely an Impala.

I have also...............

Hee-Hee! She's all done now Jon and sitting quietly on my shelf! Somewhere it was in the Under Glass section, but it got bumped off the board some time ago. Here's the finished pics for those that may have missed it..................... One Faux Pas I did was to paint the engine light blue when it should have been a lighter green. I was getting references off of a "original" '49 off the 'net-----and its engine was blue. Oh well!

Well, this is the first I've posted something in a little while------maybe a few days. Got a lot going on in my life at the moment. I had an Aunt pass away the other day, and her services are this Saturday. At the same time my Dad who's 79 years old, is back in the hospital due to complications from blood clots. He just got out recently for thyroid cancer surgery, and the medications caused the blood clots to form. Also, a girl I know (just a friend at this point ), her sister is in the hospital (27 years old) due to persistent seizures which has led to some brain damage. So if you don't see me responding a whole lot-------I've got a heck of a lot going on with me lately. And don't get me started with the issues I've had on the job, since we had a BIG layoff recently....................

I had Driver's Ed in '77 (School had a Cutlass Supreme, Grand Prix, and a Caprice) and they only had the brake pedal on the passenger side. BUT I do remember seeing local driving school ads from back then which did show a steering wheel on the passenger side. How they were attached to the steering mechanism I have no idea, but THAT would make for a neat modeling project! Johnny, I wish more schools taught standard trans driving with Drivers Ed! It's amazing how many young people absolutely know nothing about driving a stick. My Dad always said............"If you can drive a stick, you can drive anything!"

Excellent Job Jim! I LOVE that interior and engine detail!