MrObsessive

I also wanted to add that I think this is the first ROM that I've seen where as soon as I saw the pic, I knew if it was real or not. No, I haven't seen the pic elsewhere, it's that subtle detail I've alluded to---------which I spotted immediately. Okay, my lips are now sealed! No more info until Friday! (maybe! )

Besides the obvious, there is one subtle but very important detail which makes this real for me. I'll hold my cards close to the vest until polling's over though.............

I mostly use Easy Off Oven Cleaner (Yellow Can) as it will also take off that annoying lacquer base they use. That base can wreak havoc depending on if you're going to paint the wheels as it can react to other paints unfavorably. As others have said, make sure you wear gloves and in the case of the Easy Off, a respirator wouldn't hurt either.

Here's the can of Duplicolor used for the body.........as my usual mode I decanted the can into an airbrush jar and sprayed away. I just don't trust spray cans of any sort.................I especially hate that stupid fan spray pattern that they've foisted on us if you want to use automotive colors. In natural light the color is more of a burgundy.........much like the pic of the concept in an earlier posting. Here 'tis!............ Once the primary color was dry, tape, BMF, and Parafilm was used to mask off the roof to be painted Alclad Aluminum. This was used to replicate the brushed aluminum/stainless steel of the car. Carefully peeling away the masking yielded good results...................just some touch up needs to be done. Doors appear to be different shades, but they're not. I did some light rubbing out on the main body section to even out some slight orange peel. Once clearcoated the shades will even out. Later, I'll clearcoat the red, with Tamiya X-22, then set in the dehydrator to fully cure. Once fully cured, I'll rub out the clear with polishing cloths and wax. The next hurdle will be the wheels. As seen in the beginning of the thread I want to use Herb Deeks PE wheels. They have the proper offset (none) for this type of car. The jury's still out if they'll be okay for the tires, but I intend to make something work as I have tons of tires laying around. Thanks for looking!

Here's the mostly complete chassis with the inner fenders painted Alclad Aluminum............. Rear suspension with transverse leaf spring like the 1:1 Cobra's with rear disc brakes. ................And now the interior mostly done save for the dash............... Now it's time to get the windows trimmed out and test fitted before painting. As some of you have seen in my other builds, it's good to make a pattern from the outside of the windows, then you want to make a "trough" in the A pillars for the windows to have something to rest in/on. After the paint is rubbed out and such, the windows will be put in. IMO window fitting is just as important as your paint.............huge gaps and ill fitting glass really take away from what can be a nice looking model. Okay, finally painting! I did the door jambs first so everything can be mounted at the same time to ensure a same color match for all panels. The color is Duplicolor Claret Red Metallic to closely match the dark red car which was the running concept. But wait, there's more!............

Hmmm.............I think it's time I made an update to this thread! The chassis is mostly done, and the body finally has some paint on it. Here's a somewhat coherent rundown of what's been going on lately. As you can see, the chassis rails are all painted now. I painted them with MCW gloss black. What I like about his paint (particularly the black) is you can spray it directly on the plastic, and it won't craze like your hotter lacquers can. Beginning to build up the master cylinder frame rail for it to sit on............... In the above pic, I wanted to build up my own brake and clutch pedals as opposed to the ones given in the kit. The car's pedals pivot on the floor so I went and cut out a square section so the pedals can run up through once the interior is attached. While I don't know the inner workings of the concept, I know that it used a '63 Shelby Cobra chassis with the engine set back a bit more than the standard Cobra yielding more of a midfront engine layout. Using pics of a 289 Shelby Daytona Coupe under restoration, I based the brake line routing off of those details. These are the front brake lines.............. And the rear brake lines------the Tees and unions were scratchbuilt. I wanted a break (NOT brake! ) from the chassis so I turned my attention to the interior. The interior of the concept is basic black, so I followed suit and painted the wheel wells, seats, center tunnel, and rear spare carrier in Polly S Engine Black, which is a water soluble paint. The "carpeting" is black embossing powder which is a bit finer and not as "fuzzy" as flocking. It's a bit better for smaller scales as the flocking is great for large scales when needed. Stay tuned for more!

I second that!!

If you're using Firefox the video might not play. I had to switch over to Internet Explorer to get it to play on my laptop. Yeah, that chick would have been on her own, with the police coming to collect her in short order!

Well unless I've got Internet II I googled it and come up with this.

Another problem I've seen over the years Bill is no one (particularly American designers) is willing to take chances anymore------ they're more willing to "play it safe". I don't know if it's the Pontiac Aztec factor or what, but a number of designs I've seen come out of Detroit lately (save for a few) are too "safe" and don't have the love it or leave it factor that was once a hallmark of American design. Don't get me started on some of the horrendous/ill looking proportions on some cars thanks to front wheel drive........that's been bugging me crazy for years!

:lol:

You're a new member so welcome! That's a loaded question because you and only you can determine that since you're right on it. Whenever it looks sufficiently covered and smooth..............stop. How many coats will depend on your airbrushing style, consistency of paint relative to thinner, size of model..................too open a question......... You mentioned you have clear coat.......I've found in the past that solid colors really don't need clearcoating as there's enough hardener in solid colors to polish out and be just as nice. It's up to you, but I would simply rub out the paint and polish if I were doing a solid black paint job.

That's the designers forever bowing to the aerodynamic gods and too much thinking alike. Too many of today's cars have rear ends that are too tall and boxy with a spoiler to add to the bulk. Gimme the days when cars had nice and tapered rear ends..............'67-'68 Chevy, '63-'67 Corvette, Any late '60's B-body Mopar, I could go and on.................

I miss the old days where you had the filler neck right dead center in the rear of the car. Now for obvious reasons safety wise, they're no longer put there. One thing I didn't know until I bought my Saturn a few years ago, I noticed a tiny little arrow pointing to the right by my fuel pump icon on the gauge. They say you learn something new every day.............I thought it was there for decoration!

Traduzca en Espanol para nosotros................No entiendo esa lengua a veces!

About a year before the 1:1 Citation came out (I was a senior in high school then), the automotive press was blathering on about GM's new "X-Body" compacts. I remember thinking to myself......"Oooooh, X-Body!" I was thinking something pretty sexy considering they gave the body type the "X" moniker.............. I was WOEFULLY disappointed when the cars showed up in the metal! The only thing the cars had going for it IMO was the front engine/suspension cradle did pave the way for Pontiac to bring out the mid/rear engined Fiero, but we all know what happened to that one. They did make history for GM in the sense that they were the first FWD compacts to come from GM..............the first FWD being the Toronado, but that was a full size car------and a LOT better looking! Dave you did a REAL nice job on what to me is a boring kit................imagine the torque steer in that beast though with a V8!! Now THAT is funny!!

:lol: :lol:

* = ????

I would have to say this one................. This '58 Chevy represented a LOT of firsts for me, and easy it was not! My '64 GTO comes in a close second........probably because I had already did some of the working features, but that one never got finished.

Welcome Curtis and my congrats on the GSL win! That is an absolutely stunning Ferrari!! If you got Second place........what in the world got First?? One of the reasons judging is not one of my favorite things!

Is this a new form of spam going on?? First time posters with nothing to say about themselves or the hobby?? First it was a few about looking for a new car and now this nonsense........... Get out of here and get a job!!

When Car and Driver came out with an artists rendering of what the current Charger would look like (a few months before debut) the email and snail mail was absolutely BALLISTIC!! Car and Driver went on to say a couple months later that they've never received so much hate mail about a single car in their whole publishing life! The Mopar forums were also not as forgiving, with a lot of folks expecting the car to be a lot like the concept. I'll betcha Chrysler's sale to Daimler had a lot to do with the current Charger's looks.............IIRC the company was being sold right around the same time as the concept was making the rounds. A real shame..................

The current Charger is "okay" in a pedestrian kind of way........but IMO Chrysler would have been MUCH better off if they would have built this.............. Instead they come out with what's now on the road............what a disappointment!

Ken, there are other changes.............The front fascia (grille, leading edge of hood) need to be changed for a '66. Also probably seat and door panel patterns were changed as well. There would need to be a new trunk lid as the tailights weren't in the trunk as on the '65. I like the subtle changes GM did back then as they didn't hang onto the same boring/ugly car for years on end. IIRC, GM had two year styling cycles so we had an all new car come '67.

BMF won't stand up to the swirl effect you want but for so long. You're better off taking a flat piece of aluminum sheet, and using a moto-tool, hand burnish the swirl marks you want. I've only seen one person do this on a model...............back in the early '90's a fellow by the name of Larry Boothe did a perfect replication of this on a super detailed build of a AMT '57 T-Bird. He did as I described------took a Dremel with a burnishing tool and did the engine turning by hand for the dashboard. It was VERY convincing for that scale!