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Everything posted by MrObsessive
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Looks Great Milt! Very Clean!
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Hasegawa '58 Ferrari 250 Testa Rossa!!!!!
MrObsessive replied to larrygre's topic in Car Kit News & Reviews
Hmmm.............I got that strange feeling that we'll be seeing a Daytona Coupe before long.............It's too popular to be ignored now for much longer. In fact of course, it'll probably happen because I spent big bucks on Harold Bradford's excellent resin kit, so a plastic one is bound to come out now. -
I Goofed And Used Cheap Masking Tape, Now What?
MrObsessive replied to fatherdevine's topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
You might want to try a mild wax such as Novus or what I use to get rid of epoxy film----- Meguiar's Car Cleaner Wax. Is the paint fully cured? 'Cuz you don't want to do anything until the paint has fully dried. Another bit of advice: Tamiya Tape! It's the best stuff out there for masking! -
Thanks Randy! No, unfortunately I don't have any in progress shots of the 'Vette and Impala working features because these were built before I got a digital camera. Maybe one of the guys who goes to my club may have some older pics when I was building 'em but I don't know. Here's a shot of the '64 GTO inner door and folding top when I was building it in '04 shortly after I got a digicam to give you an idea Unfortunately, the working frame is out of the car as I couldn't get a top material that looked in scale enough in 1/24 scale--------not to mention the windows are now warped because I used the wrong type of acetate. A total redo is in order, but who knows when that'll be.............it's just put away in it's box now.
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Hasegawa '58 Ferrari 250 Testa Rossa!!!!!
MrObsessive replied to larrygre's topic in Car Kit News & Reviews
I did get a hold of Hannant's and they tell me that their orders are still on track for April. I should order from HLJ just the same as I did want to get more than one. Shipping is probably a bit cheaper..............Shipping from the UK to the states is £10.00 which comes out to roughly $20 or so in today's money. -
First off Will, before doing any airbrushing with paint, invest in a good respirator! Preferably the dual cartridge type and NOT the paper mask kind......It'll be worth it! Any type of hobby paint will airbrush well if it's thinned properly. The rule of thumb with paint is to thin it with the consistency of milk. When I thin paint for airbrushing, I like to swill the jar until I can see the paint leave a slight film on the sides-----then I know it's ready to be sprayed. BTW, automotive paints can be airbrushed too.............you'll have to decant the spray into an airbrush jar just the same. If it's in a touch up bottle, then the rules of thinning above apply here also. Spray can paint normally need not be thinned since it needs to come out of its own can, but I've had exceptions. Any good hobby shop should carry a nice selection of paints..........I don't know your area but check around. As far as the amount of paint in the jar to complete a body.......................that'll all depend on your skill of painting with no redo's and the size of the model. Most importantly of all..............Practice, Practice, Practice, and Test, Test, Test! HTH!
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I have to take that the Future is fully dry so I don't know why the windows are cloudy. It's a good idea to clearcoat before anything is attached (ie: windows) but Future can be stripped using ammonia. You'll have to work carefully around the bodywork as you don't want it to run on your paint............a Q-Tip would be good for this. You can then polish the glass with polish such as Novus or what I use------Meguiars Car Cleaner Wax. I've never rubbed out and polished the Future itself as I use it strictly for a barrier, so I can't answer to how well it'll do. Future dries very thin so I wouldn't try to rub it out too much however. It can't hurt to experiment on a scrap body........in fact I strongly recommend that whenever you're trying a new technique so there's no surprises later.
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Okay..............could be you're putting too heavy a coat on and the solvents in the paint are causing this. I use an airbrush for painting bodies, so this may be the difference. Yes, give the Future a try-------you could airbrush it on, or use a foam brush to apply it. I generally wait overnight or so before I'll start to paint over it. Some guys don't like this paint, but I've even used Krylon Sandable Primer over putty and it covers excellent! The pigments are very tight and have never had a problem with covering over light blue putty. Here's a couple pics of bodywork I've done with the current model I'm working on..............the putty I've used is Dynatron Putty-Cote (a Bondo product) and the primer is Krylon on this example. I don't remember using Future in this particular case before primering the bodywork, but did use an airbrush painting it. HTH!
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Yes, the Future won't hurt the putty since it's what I do when doing bodywork. I have to ask though.........What kind of primer are you using that the pigments aren't tight enough to cover the putty?? I use acrylic enamel/lacquer primers and I've never had that problem.
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Hasegawa '58 Ferrari 250 Testa Rossa!!!!!
MrObsessive replied to larrygre's topic in Car Kit News & Reviews
Absolutely!! I'm dying to see a nicely done '63 250 GT Lusso! Maybe even a well done '60-'61 250 GT SWB! -
Hasegawa '58 Ferrari 250 Testa Rossa!!!!!
MrObsessive replied to larrygre's topic in Car Kit News & Reviews
Awww Geez..............I preordered mine back around New Years day from Hannant's. I hope theirs are still on track for April like they mentioned. I'll have to drop them a line to see what's up. -
What Do You Do First?
MrObsessive replied to Clay's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Yes! I'm totally with you Darin! I might spend as much time on the 'net (sometimes hours) trying to get good large photos of a particular car. Everything from body details to under car shots. For the Ford for instance, I bought a reprint shop manual for some other things that the pics can't show. Here's a screenshot of just some of the pics I keep in my folders for reference............. There's many more, but that's all that would fit on the screen! -
What Do You Do First?
MrObsessive replied to Clay's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Depends on the type of build I'm doing.............I'll have the exterior/interior color chosen before I begin the kit. Bodywork is top importance------which can range from complete reworking of bodylines to simple filling of sink marks, parting lines. etc. After bodywork will come the engine, followed by the chassis work, then the interior----particularly if the model I'm building has opening doors, I'll build the interior on the flip side of the chassis floor. Painting the body is the last thing I do since I want to make sure everything will fit with ease, and have the least amount of drama after the body is painted. I'll already have the chassis floor oversprayed with the exterior color so this no issue choosing a color. Small parts I paint as I go............sometimes I don't always follow the same sequence when building and I test fit parts numerous times before painting just the same. I also have to scratchbuild parts at times so I definitely want to test fit before painting. -
Hasegawa Ferrari 250 Testa Rossa Is Here!
MrObsessive replied to ismaelg's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Well I'm getting mine from Hannant's in the UK.........but I suppose they haven't made it that far west yet. It'll probably be one of the newest kits I've ever built so soon as I'd like to start on it sometime this year! -
I Learned Something New Today
MrObsessive replied to a topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Yeah, as soon as I saw the box I knew it was a phantom. And yes, that could have been a no brainer if AMT saw fit to modify their '53. I'm keepin' an eye on the auction as I'd love to have it.................maybe later if I have time, I'll post pics of the now damaged '58 I have. -
I Learned Something New Today
MrObsessive replied to a topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Hmmm............I should bid on that! 'Cuz I've got a '58 that I scratchbuilt from a '53-----but it's got a damaged hood now. I could use that box for a neat display at shows! The Stude is on my list for a redo in the near future though........ -
What To Use For Primer Under Testors Enamels??
MrObsessive replied to LVZ2881's topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
Yep, I tried that once Olle..............on Monogram's '56 T-Bird. But the pigments in the plastic were so thin that even though the outside was painted red it changed the outside hue (in this case painted red) just the same because the plastic was that translucent. So it'll depend on the plastic/manufacturer. I undercoat all my models with Future Floor wax anyway before painting, 'cuz I get paranoid even with stuff as tame as Tamiya's. I just don't like the paint on plastic look................because to me it looks like............well, paint on plastic. -
What To Use For Primer Under Testors Enamels??
MrObsessive replied to LVZ2881's topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
Sorry Olle............But I gotta disagree with you on one point about primer. Especially with today's plastics primer is essential if you want your model to have as solid a look as possible. I've seen too many models in contests and at NNL's that are very nicely built, but depending on how the light hits it------you can see daylight right through the plastic and paint because the paint pigments are not tight enough to prevent this. Enamels are the worst at this! In another words not making the model look solid lends it a toylike appearance. In another post I mentioned that I consider it a compliment if someone mistakes my model for a diecast (particularly a novice). That tells me I've done a good job to making the model appear a solid and metal like as possible where it fooled people into thinking it was metal. As far as application.........I use an airbrush to apply primer, so I see where you're coming from as far as spray cans for primer. But I've seen guys use cans for primer and their detail is as crisp as anything out there as far as scripts and whatnot is concerned. James as David mentioned, any primer under enamel will do...............but I do NOT recommend Testor's gray enamel "primer"! It never dries, and to me is not that durable. You're better off using Plastikote or Duplicolor------or even the excellent Tamiya primers. Just my 3¢ worth..............no flames intended. -
Cruz, that '59 is fantastic! Your BMF looks great from this end!..........there's no getting around it though, just about any '50's-early '60's car will have a goodly amount of chrome to BMF. The '55 Ford I'm still working on will have me in the BMF mode before too long.............I just hope the sheet doesn't start cracking on me like the last one did when I did the '63 Turbine Car!
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Man you're speakin' my language!! I've got a resin '64 layin' around somewhere that I bought years ago from John Heyer but never finished. I also have a '58 that I converted from a '53------but it needs restored as the hood got damaged among other things. I also have R&R's resin '56 Golden Hawk............One of Ray's nicer kits! It would be nice to see any of those done in plastic.
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Lookin' Good CAL!! Love the tonneau cover! Nice touch!
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Pontiac Astre Resin Kit?
MrObsessive replied to Smart-Resins's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
I'd like to see a full body kit likewise! Of course I'd want to build a street car! I can't think of any suitable chassis that could be kitbashed with that. I drove an Astre a loooooong time ago (early '80's) and believe it was a '77 that my Uncle owned. Not a bad car and certainly better than it's cousin the Vega as it didn't suffer the same maladies as the Vega-------ie: self destucting engines due to lack of cylinder liners for its aluminum block. The Astre IIRC used Pontiacs Iron Duke 4 which would in later years find its way into the Fiero.