MrObsessive

I ran across Dynatron by accident.....years ago I was looking for Evercoat Eurosoft(sp?). That stuff was as hard to find as hens teeth around here, so one day I went into a local autobody supply asking if they could order Evercoat. The fellow working there said he couldn't, but he recommended the Dynatron, and I've been sold ever since. I've used regular bondo in the past, but as I mentioned before, it seems as though the Dynatron has some plastic in it which makes it nice to add styrene trim on. Here's another example of such on the '55 Ford................ Here's a pic of the can of Dynatron....................

Raul, I've found that it'll stick better if the plastic is primed and dried thoroughly. It feather edges great and I've not had a problem with shrinkage. It's dry and workable within a half hour------although for big jobs (such as that Ford roof) I've let it sit overnight.

I use Dynatron Putty-Cote which is a Bondo product. It's a two part mix like Bondo, but has some plastic in it which I've found handy when trying to attach trim or something on top during the build. I use whatever's handy when spreading the putty-------toothpicks for small areas, up to plastic knives for the larger stuff. I strongly recommend staying away from anything Squadron when doing bodywork. That stuff is too unpredictable in the long run as it has a tendency to still be shrinking 6 months after the model is done! Here's a few pics of the Dynatron I used on the roof of the '55 Ford I'm working on now........... For getting in those tight corners and such, I use a riffler file for that.............. Excellent for opening up molded in grilles that are recessed in the body. To clean up exterior work, I just fold up various grades of sandpaper as tight as I can to get at the really tight corners. Riffler files can be picked up at a good hardware store...............or they can be found here.

Clay, you may want to run the gamut of the painting process to see how the paint will hold up to polishing, clearcoating, etc. Some paints for instance don't like clearcoat on them unless it's the very mildest of stuff. (ie: Tamiya water based acrylic clear) Nothing's more frustating to me than to have a botched paint job-------especially considering how long it takes me to get a model together with the detail I like to do.

YES!! The advice Raul gives is very sound! ALWAYS test out paint before you try it on an entire model! Especially with today's newer softer plastic, that is a MUST. I can tell you that if you're building anything by Revell molded from 2004 to present, I'd especially be careful of the soft plastic they're using now. Under the hood, or maybe even just the sprue itself can give you an idea of how the paint will react.

I'm on the invite list and I'm really flattered that they asked me! What to build for that??....................Hmmm.........that's a good question as I sometimes have trouble making up my mind for the next build! Something that'll be out of the ordinary even for me........but what that is I don't know yet.

Awwww Geeee.............That looks so nice!! And I'm not a fan of '30's vehicles simply because there were very few if any on the road by the time I came along. So I wouldn't be that familiar with them unlike stuff out of the '50's. But that looks soooooo dang sharp! Hmmm...........Lemme see if I can squeeze one out of the budget...........I've already got a few of their other 1/12's.

If you're comparing what you want to do as opposed to buying a TKM model...........in a word-----YES!! At least what you're working with is plastic and not the "resin" that he's using.

Outstanding as usual Jim!! Neat idea to use a dual pivot hinge for the hood where clearance would have been a problem when opening.

Now that's some excellent masking Brian! Tamiya tape has come to the rescue more than once when I needed to mask something. It's the best stuff out there IMO for masking!

No........Not really. Both kits have their pluses and minuses..........The AMT one still holds up well IMO if time and patience are used to build it. The Revell one will appeal to a lot of guys due to ease of assembly-----and yes, that ready-done chrome trim will save many a builder a lot of headaches with BMF'ing. When I get around to building mine (probably as a rare fuelie coupe) I'll have my own way of dealing with the add on chrome as it has some setbacks I've noticed groking the kit. And I'll probably get crazy and open the doors on that one too, so it's consistent with my convertible!

Or an AMT '58 Chevy around those rear fenders!

A good starting point might be the '67 Mustang from ERTL. Mustangs were originally based off the Falcon, and I don't think Ford changed the chassis much from the original '60 model. At least it's worth a shot------you might have to tweak the wheelbase somewhat though.

I figured mine was the later reissue because mine was molded in white, not the bronze as Clay has. If he chooses to rebuild, it might not be as daunting as it seems because someone had already tried! Not to mention as each subsequent release was done, the molds were more and more tired as mine had a TON of flash to get rid of more than anything!

That looks like one of the early ones molded in bronze. Here's one I did a little while ago-------one of the later reissues......... If you're attempting a rebuild of that one, I should tell you that it's NOT for the faint of heart! It's ranked as one of the most difficult kits ever made.............but with some patience and time it CAN be built!

Looks mighty nice James! The color is flawless! Is this the Monogram or the Fujimi kit you're building? Your flocking (embossing powder it take it?) for the carpet looks great! One of the builds I have planned for late this year is a Cobra............I'm torn as to which one-------a 427 like yours, Harold Bradford's Daytona Coupe kit, or a nice little 289.

You may be talking about this thread here.

I'm now putting my attention on the interior.......some definite reshaping of some parts are needed because of the difference in scale. I had the hardest time trying to get the interior parts out of the diecast............the Chinese used some super industrial strength glue to fasten the parts! I was afraid they would get damaged trying to get them off the diecasts chassis floor. The following parts are painted green and snowshoe white................however since the car I'm doing will be Regency Purple and Snowshoe White, the seats should be black and white according to a very knowledgeable Ford guy I know. Here's what I've pried out of the Danbury.............. The dash in the pics above will be a bit troublesome as it's too wide for the interior.........I'll have to carefully file down the sides (symmetrically) so it fits..........likewise lengthen the dash top to match the contours of the windshield doglegs, as well as the base of the windshield. I'm going to try and do all this and hopefull preserve that Y-Block decal as well as that PE emblem. The front door panels will be scratchbuilt as the ones in the diecast are waaaaayy too thick and would interfere with doors opening and closing properly. I have some very good 1:1 photos of the door panels so this should be no problem. If I have time, I'll try to get everything painted up this weekend, but there's flocking to put on the floorpan and some other tweaking to do yet so stay tuned! Thanks for lookin'!

The slow but sure progress of the Victoria solders on...............since I got the chassis pretty much 98% complete, I needed to finish up the engine as far as I could get it before permanently putting it in the chassis. I originally posted pics of the engine a couple years ago before I ran out of steam and ambition with this model before-----But now I have impetuous to "git 'er done" since getting this far with the chassis. Here are some pics of what's pretty much complete...........some paint touch up work is now gonna need done as this engine has been painted and handled for pretty much two years now. The carb detail I had to fudge a bit because finding pics of just the naked carb were about as scarce as hens teeth! I have a '55 Ford shop manual which shows it under rebuild, so this was the best I could do to get some detail on the carburetor. I cheated a bit with the air cleaner................I swiped it from the derelict diecast which will be giving up a number of it's parts to get this one done. I still need to add heater and radiator hoses, however those won't go in permanent until the body is on the chassis. Just for curiosity, I wanted to see how the body will sit stance wise on its wheels and tires now that the front and rear suspensions are now in place.............. So far so good.............I've got to dig out my 1:1 pics to see if the wheels are that tucked in the body like that. Memory tells me they are as that was quite common on '50's-early '60's cars. Some very minor bodywork is in order before any color coats get put on----------I need to make the windshield header a little bit thicker per the 1:1 and also from a suggestion from Ron Hamilton. Likewise I may tweak the left side vent window a bit, as to my eyes it doesn't seem quite symmetrical to the other side. The door sill trim will need to be replaced as sections have broken off from two years of handling. BTW, painting the body will be one of the last things I do as I want to make sure everything will fit together so there will be as little handling of the body as possible. A little more to come........!

Jim, that's gonna be another masterpiece when you get done with it! XK120's are absolutely BEAUTIFUL cars! That's one thing I love best about this forum..................you can add to your thread as each step comes along! Keep us posted!

Hooray! Another vintage race car builder! ALL of those are super excellent............but I really LOVE that Maserati 450 S!!

All I can say is that if I can manipulate these small parts with my big 'ol hands...............anyone can.......... Yup, it's 1/25........

Yeah, that's a very subjective thing! It may depend on the car and/or era that I'm building. Newer modern cars have so many hoses and wires that it would be a total burnout for me to try and do everything. Cars out of the '50-'60's I like detailing because the wiring isn't overwhelming and can make for impressive engine bay detailing so it won't seem so "empty". Those that know me have seen where I've run the gamut..............from all out superdetail, to nice curbside displayers. I'm not necessarily building for shows anymore.................if one turns up that I'm interested in, I may enter it------but I don't build specifically for a particular show. Jim, I've always LOVED that Grand Sport Corvette of yours! It's good to see that one again! I agree with you in this case that "more is definitely more"!

Well that can be subjective depending on how long one has been into models! I'd say in recent memory, my nod goes to the 1995 issue of the Revellogram '70 'Cuda AAR. They show a nice real 1:1 on the box, however what turned up in the box was woefully inaccurate as everyone now knows. IIRC there was a builtup on the side which should have been the tip off of what would be a major disappointment. At least they did update that one for '07.............but............ Another subjective vote may go to the original '63-'64 release of the Chrysler Turbine Car. Beautiful box art, but it left many a modeler with what was probably the most difficult (ie: unbuildable) model ever to be squeezed out of a mold. I'm sure there are a number of others..............