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MrObsessive

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Everything posted by MrObsessive

  1. Future is a clear acrylic finish folks put on linoleum floors to make 'em nice and shiny. You can get it at your local grocery store. I've been using it for years as a barrier on plastic for hot automotive paints. Also works well to keep that nasty red or yellow plastic from bleeding through on models that you want to paint white particularly. Here's an article on the complete rundown of Future Floor Wax.
  2. Yes Harry, I got the flyer the other day! It's very impressive and I might spring for one even though I'm not into that era of car. I was hoping that their next 1/12 would be either a '55 or '57 T-Bird, or even a '64 GTO convertible! A logical next step might be a '68 Shelby Mustang Convertible since they already have the basic bits with the '64½ Mustang. They seem to come out with a new 1/12 about twice a year so here's hoping........... Raul, I'm kinda limited on space too for 1/12's......(gotta build more shelves!) but I'd certainly make room for the ones I mentioned above!
  3. Check out this thread for posting pics here if you'd like.
  4. Yeah, you can put the glue on over paint................as far as getting it on the windshield, that's gonna happen------but should clean up with some water. It just takes some patience and a steady hand to keep the windshield in place until it dries. I use 5 min epoxy for windshields as I need something with a little more strength since I usually make my windshields out of clear stencil sheet. I get epoxy on my windshields.......(sometimes a LOT) but it cleans up with alcohol and then I polish it out with wax. For late '50's early '60's wraparound windshields, epoxy for me is a must!
  5. Yes, I have a few of the 1/24 DM cars as well. I've got three of the 1/12 scale ones.................'57 Chevy Convertible, '56 Corvette, and the 1964½ Mustang Convertible. Yup they're definitely models, while I'm not a major diecast collector by any means-------I will buy 'em if they're accurate looking and not toylike.
  6. I got my first model actually on the Christmas of '68 (AMT '40 Ford?) when I was 7..............you couldn't get me to even attempt to buid it then because the multiple pieces reminded me of a puzzle which at the time I absolutely HATED! Especially with all those nice and shiny new Hot Wheels to play with, why attempt a model? It would be about another 10 years in '78 as a senior in high school that I would build a model for the first time................Monogram's then somewhat new '57 Corvette kit. I was hooked and the rest is history!
  7. For small stuff I use Tamiya putty, for the larger jobs I use Dynatron Putty-Cote. It's a Bondo product, and it may not be available everywhere, but it's been what I've been using for years and it's what's readily available locally. It's a two part mix which I highly recommend for bodywork on plastic..............stay away from the hobby tube stuff (Squadron comes to mind!)..............Tamiya is the only exception to that. I use my putty over primer as I found it to bond much better than to putting it on bare plastic. The Dynatron dried within about half an hour or so and it feather edges beautifully!
  8. All I have to say (and show) is this...............with some time and patience, the old AMT '58 kit can be built to hang with the best of 'em today............
  9. Clean as a whistle Cruz! Izzat clear lines I see for the fuel delivery?? Looks super slick! Be sure to bring that to the meeting Saturday!
  10. Yeah, like Jonathan mentioned above...........that's where they're located. This would be for a car that has a radio to shield against electrical buzzing due to the fiberglass body. If you ordered a car with no radio, there was no shield.
  11. Bob, I give the nod for Ambroid Pro Weld over Tenax for one reason.............Longevity! I hate how Tenac evaporates so quickly over time, while my bottle of Pro Weld seems to hang on forever if I don't use it. The strength properties are about the same, but I like the larger size of the Pro Weld as well since it's my primary glue of choice, particularly for bodywork.
  12. The guy who ran ScaleKraft (Guido Fieuw) had a mountain climbing accident some time ago. It was said his injuries were pretty severe, to the point he's no longer casting or building anything. He had some amazing stuff............I have one of his bodies ('61 Aston Martin Zagato) and the casting is very clean. It's supposed to be a trans kit for the old Monogram Aston.........but it'll be a lot of work though.
  13. I almost forgot I had this site bookmarked! There aren't any chassis shots here, but some excellent engine and engine bay photos of a '68 under resto! I sure miss the 1:1 '69 I had many years ago ................I would have loved those Trendsetter side pipes that the resto car has!
  14. I've wondered this myself as I have several 2 seat AMX models, both built and unbuilt. Looks to me the closest thing that would work might be the chassis out of the ERTL '67 Mustang. Dimensionally they are close, but you'd have to do some surgery to shorten up the wheelbase though. Even the inner fenders are close as the Johan ones are very inaccurate-------the front suspension would work too as the '68-'69's used a lower A arm setup very similar to the Mustang. As far as full on chassis pics, you can search eBay for some cars on auction. Some folks who really want to show the car inside and out will show practically every nut and bolt! I've got some pics, but they're not very good and don't show the chassis in full on view-----just partial pics. Another idea although it will cost some bucks, is to find either an original, or a reprint of a shop manual. A lot of them show the underside, or have a diagram of how the wires and lines run in a particular car. HTH!
  15. Yes, that's the one! As far as adding detail to the wires, I cut off pieces of larger wire insulation to simulate plug boots on the ends. I did this both for the distributor end and the spark plug end. I got the vacuum advance mechanism on the side I believe from Norm Veber of Replica and Miniatures of MD. I simply drilled a hole in it, and ran a line from it to the center carb. The distributor itself came pre drilled and also sold by Norm. You'll still have to carefully add the wiring though. Norm sells these in 6 and 8 cylinder types. You'll have to play around with what size insulation suits your particular wiring. I believe got the wiring from Detail Master, but I don't look at sizes for any particular application................I go with whatever looks "in scale".
  16. Yup! That was for the choke so that when the engine warmed up it would close properly..............At least until the carburetor got all gummed up back in those days! Here's my take on that engine I built years ago.........it's from AMT's '58 Impala kit...............
  17. Todd, I can't help you with the wheels since I've never used them, but I have built a 348/409 in the past. Here's a pic I have of a 348 out of a '58 Chevy..................externally they're pretty much the same as the later 409 'cept for air cleaners and maybe some carb options. Hope this helps.........The ignition wires are pretty visible in this shot. There's guys out there I'm sure that can chime in on the wheels sooner or later.
  18. AAAARGH!! I want this kit NOW!! That is a beautiful build! Don't really care much for the wheels............the PE ones will look much better on this. I can already see some superdetailing on that engine!...........Linkage and all! I've got mine preordered..............I CAN'T WAIT!
  19. Nice build! That brings back some memories for sure..................some good, most bad. Yes, mine went a bit further than a block before it broke down........ , but I swear every other week I was fixing something on that car! I had a '71, (a Midget no less) and it was probably the most troublesome car I have ever owned! I bought the car in March of '85..............and by the end of that summer as fall arrived, reality set in that winter was soon to follow, and there was NO WAY I wanted to work on that thing in the cold winter! I got sensible and got rid of it for a '76 Dodge Coronet!
  20. Ron, do you know if the Mercedes is a resin trans kit to convert the Revell of Germany model, or is Harold doing a complete one? I have the Mercedes kit...............but that Ferrari is a complete surprise!
  21. Great pics Lyle! Looks like it was a good meeting! Wish I could have made it------but too much to do here today. Do you know who's doing these?? I love 'em! 1955 Mercedes 300 SLR (Airbrake Car) 1957 Ferrari 250 GT TDF
  22. Ambitious project Matt!! I've got that same kit..................but I think when I build it (if ever!), I'll play it safe and just build it out of the box as that kind of car is not my forte! 13 parts each for each air jack?? You should put the "Obsessive" name also somewhere in your handle! Great work so far and keep us updated!
  23. Thanks for the heads up Bob! I already saved the pics for comparison later! Brian, I hope too that this brings some more much wanted vintage Ferraris! I'd personally LOVE a Lusso, 330 LMB, and a '61 TR.
  24. Milt, they were identical as far as the styling. Likewise the interiors were the same except for new interior colors to go with the new colors for '54. There were some engine details that differed from '53 to '54..............Namely the valve cover was painted blue early in the model year as the '53. It would say "Blue Flame Six" on it. Sometime during the '54 run, the valve cover was chromed with the Chevrolet name script stamped on it. Also besides the new interior colors, there was a new folding top color------the previous black top was replaced with a tan one, although black would be correct for a very early '54 car.
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